Grand Seiko SBGC238 Chronograph GMT
New Release

Grand Seiko SBGC238 Chronograph GMT

By cazalea · Sep 7, 2020 · 9 replies
cazalea
WPS member · Seiko forum
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Cazalea introduces the Grand Seiko Sport Collection SBGC238, a limited edition chronograph celebrating the brand's 60th anniversary. This post details the watch's design inspirations, from the enduring lion emblem to traditional Japanese samurai armor, highlighting its distinctive 'Katsu-iro' blue dial and robust case.

A limited edition of 100 watches available in October 2020



CONCEPT
The lion, the enduring emblem of Grand Seiko
The lion mark was born together with the first Grand Seiko in 1960. It reflected the ambition of the Grand Seiko team to make a watch that was as precise, durable and beautiful as could be and revealed the intensity of their determination. They defined their goal as making the "king of watches". So it was that the lion mark came to symbolize the inner strength of Grand Seiko and inspire its watchmakers to create the very best timepieces of which they were capable.

This new watch's design takes inspiration from the traditional Japanese armor worn by samurai warlords during the Sengoku period, a time marked by civil wars and social upheaval in the late 15th to early 17th century. The timepiece expresses the unwavering spirit of the samurai and Grand Seiko's continuous pursuit for the ultimate in watchmaking on its 60th anniversary.

Color
The distinctive blue color of indigo dye, known as "Katsu-iro," was favored and used by the Samurai for their armor and represented their bravery. This "Katsu-iro" color is applied for the dial and together with the watch case reminiscent of a powerful lion, the timepiece expresses the martial warrior's noble spirit. The grooves of the Katsu-iro colored crocodile strap are applied rose gold to reflect the strength and dignity of the armor that has been used in battle over a long period of time. 




Case Design
The case, which embodies the intense strength and dignity of lions, is angled inwards to ensure a soft fit on the wrist. It reproduces the strength of the lion's forelegs to grasp and not release prey, providing overwhelming wearability. The lug of the case looking like a lion's nail has a flat surface without distortion by Zaratsu polishing and hairline finish. It is a case design that gives a brave impression like a lion.



Dial Pattern
The dial has a pattern representing the mane of the lion, which is the proof of the king of the beasts. A second hand with glide motion unique to the Spring Drive slides gracefully on the lion's mane.


Case Back
The new timepiece carries the lion symbol in the form of an 18k gold insert in the oscillating weight, denoting the enhanced accuracy of the specially adjusted movement (+/-0.5 seconds a day). As a proof of the limited edition, "Limited Edition" and the serial number are printed on the case back, with "60th Anniversary 1960-2020" on the crystal sapphire glass in rose gold.




AUTOMATIC SPRING DRIVE 3-DAY CHRONOGRAPH GMT

Caliber 9R96
Caliber 9R96 is specially adjusted Caliber 9R86, to deliver an even higher level of precision. Caliber 9R86 is ±15 seconds a month (equivalent to ±1 second per day), whereas Caliber 9R96 is ±10 seconds a month (equivalent to ±0.5 seconds per day).

The difference between the two movements lies in the quartz crystal oscillator, which delivers accurate electrical signals. All 9R Spring Drive use quartz crystal oscillator with stable accuracy. Among them, only quartz crystal oscillator, which exhibit particularly excellent performance, are selected and mounted on the Caliber 9R96.

The Grand Seiko lion in 18K gold graces the oscillating weight to symbolize the enhanced accuracy.

Size
Diameter 44.5mm × Thickness 16.8mm

Price
Esimated $40,000














Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
T.
T.S.
Sep 7, 2020

I do not like the proportions...too thick and large to my taste. Why the need to make the watch so big

CA
cazalea
Sep 7, 2020

The only one that's smaller is the non-GMT version from GS, SBGB001, at 44 x 14 or SBGB003

MD
mdg
Sep 7, 2020

...but they really need to get on a Jenny Craig program and slim things down a bit. Anyone can build a thick watch. If they want to truly play with the big boys they need to demonstrate that they have the engineering expertise to make a slimmer movement and case.

PV
pv45
Sep 7, 2020

I do enjoy reading the marketing language behind their design reasoning, otherwise I never would have made the connection between a 'lion's forelegs' and the case.

MD
mdg
Sep 7, 2020

...and I get it, I love a good story too. But they need to figure out how to build a thinner watch.

GU
gup502
Sep 8, 2020

They however have amazing high standard of watch making techniques.

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