Cazalea introduces his latest acquisition, the Grand Seiko SBGJ225 "Kasuri," a limited edition high-beat GMT with a distinctive blue dial. He provides a detailed technical overview and aesthetic appreciation of this unique timepiece, highlighting its 9S86 automatic movement and the intricate Kasuri pattern.
I know these blue dials are getting a bit ridiculous, with the Peacock GS, the Cocktail Presage, the Enamel Presage ... but I had to grab one of these Kasuri GS (Asian "but-not-Japan") models when the chance came up and some friendly PuristS assistance was offered.
From a technical point of view it's a high-beat 9S86 automatic movement, 36,000 bph, 37-jewel, with GMT, 55 hours running time with expected accuracy -1 / +8 seconds a day when in action. Adjusted in 6 positions and temperature.
From a substance point of view it's a 44GS-type angular Stainless Steel case, with 5-segment bracelet, sapphire front and rear glass, 40 x 14mm. Water resistance to 10 Bar.
Here is the movement with its "Tokyo stripes". The crown screws down and has the GS stylized letters on its end. The first position (not pulled out) winds the watch. Second position moves the hour hand only (and consequently the date when you go around enough twice). Third position moves the hours, minutes and GMT hands. So pulling to 2nd position allows you to jump in hour increments forward or back as you travel, without affecting the second hand timekeeping.
Limited edition of 250 with blue dial formed in Kasuri pattern:
Kasuri (絣) is a Japanese word for fabric woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. The warp and weft threads are resist-dyed in specific patterns. Methods are used to "resist" or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a pattern and ground - such as wax, paste made from starch or mud, or a mechanical approach that manipulates the cloth, such as tying or stitching. Sections of the warp and weft yarns may be tightly wrapped with thread to protect them from the dye. When woven together, the undyed areas interlace to form patterns. (
read more about it in Wikipedia)
These patterns are apparently contained within a deep, crystal dial material/coating whose color varies with the light.
Unlike many GS dials, this one has a modest chapter ring at the outer edge which holds the GMT hour numerals. The applied markers are beveled on the edges and brushed on their top surfaces. The minute and second hands come right out the edge of the beveled marker; the GMT goes a bit further, and the hour hand falls short of the marker.
The date numbers are printed on a matt silver ring and appear through a framed window. The lugs are sharply beveled and quite bold. There are holes drilled in the lugs for the springbars.
The chaper ring appears to have a pebbled paint or surface treatment. The numerals or marks are in a matt silver color that matches the date wheel. The GMT hand is painted gold, and matches the GMT lettering at the bottom of the dial.
In bright sunlight the blue goes pretty silvery. And blinding!
I took a few shots indoors. The first shows almost a greenish tint, or steely color. The tip of the hour hand looks dangerously sharp.
while this dial image is much darker and purple-ish.
There's no lume, but in faint light the mirror-sharp hands and markers are easily visible
In the pattern established by GS dials in the past, I think this one will continue to fascinate me as I wear it in various conditions.
I'm happy to have my first "modern" GS hi-beat, and hope it proves as reliable as the rest of its companions on the GS shelf .
Cheers,
Cazalea
PS - more after-lunch shots:
