
Bernard Cheong's thought-provoking post delves into the concept of 'soul' in luxury goods, drawing parallels between high-end watches, leather goods, and shoes. By examining the craftsmanship in items like Hermes Birkin bags and Corthay shoes, Cheong invites readers to consider where the true essence of artistry lies in these meticulously crafted objects. This discussion offers a unique, cross-category perspective on the enduring value of human skill and creativity.
After recieving, and wearing the Corthay's..I realised the age old remark: "That has/hasnot got any soul".
In this post, fewer words, as in the Count of Monte Cristo to the Attorney General, Dantes said " Simplification is the final path to sophistication."
That may be, but it is also to expand on and make complex, something simple...in an item that is not crucial to supporting life, such as art, that complication becomes an expansion that allows the building of a soul.
There can be no maps, unless there are more than one path. Maps, journeys and alternatives exist because we created alternatives, choices and soul!
This, for example is how I walked into my office at 930am today.
There are two Birkins, in my office, because I prefer simple open bags, and because I don't need to walk more than 10meters from my car.
This one is a blue navy ardennes 50cm birkin from 1966.
It is so well made, and I did not take enough notice TILL Corthay's shoes came, for the 3rd time.

This is another Birkin, that rests on my examination couch, and it is from 1997, the same year that I bought a Datograph from Lange.
The Dato was about "slightly less" than the 60 cm Birkin...but today, the 60cm Birkin is a mighty beast of furniture, and a good one, flawless like this ...is about $23,000 usd..flawless. So maybe there is investment?
However, the topic is both about soul, and where it can be found, for me at least...my shallower self indulgent persona.

The date stamp and makers/workers marks.
This bag was from OSAKA Hermes. Japan, yes.

I believe that in bags, for men, at least...the soul if any...is in the STITCHING.
Looking at Hermes Birkin legendary work, the 1966 models are even tighter and finer...to my eyes.
The horse hair? stiching is totally hand done, no press kits here, but I have seen it.
And after 45 to 47 years or more..this one is young, only 1997.
one can see the effort and soul....of the bag...I would have bought it even if it were not branded anything...as I buy likewise independents works...they are GOOD. HONEST.


NOW..the link to watch making too.
The shoes, the soul is not so in the stich to me, but in the TOE CAPS.
I hope I do not offend Mr Corthay, but to me, the toe cap is the soul. Of course it has to have all else, like fine leather work and cut and stitches.
But the Corthay has that ALL, in spades, plus the toe caps are incredible in feel to the owner.
I feel them when I walk. I do not look at my feet when i am walking, but I can feel the center of flex and lift, from the toes.
Also, aesthetically, I find my own soul in these toe caps.
Because they are to me, beautiful.

The watch, to me, the soul is in the HANDS...more so than anywhere else.
We look at the hands and then the dial.
And the hands must have a kind of character, the FREAK has the movement on the hands, and the MBF has no hands...both extremely significant.
I love the Grand Seiko just for their incredibly sharp hands, appropriate for the swords of Japan.
The shining light and clean Seiko hands, these only on the grand seiko.
The marc newson's sea animal looking hands...they are totally organic..and that, will not be found on the case or dial.

In the dark, the Newson is one of the MOST sexual overtoned watch I have seen.
It is not erotic, but simply sensual and in this case...soul is demonstrated.


The stictching here at first I thought was /could be cosmetic..later, I found out that they hold the upper part of the soft sole. In most other Corthays, they are there, but hidden by black paint.
The soul, if you think about it, is in the toe caps...maybe different for others.
Some shoes, or watches, have no soul...and worse bags...the Birkin may have survived long, from 1945, unchanged...maybe because the soul of their classic stitching is so pure and attractive, to me, as a man.

The above toe cap, I think Corthay believed that I being a watch collector, he added jewels...to represent those of a watch...I love it for that.
See what I mean if one EXCLUDES the toe caps from the picture, yet keeps the stitchings? For a shoe?
The Seiko here, still has the hands...and the soul.

Here, no fancy accesories, just the leather and the stitches!
The Birkin's soul..this bag is from 1966!!!!
Look at how well the leather is...and no refinishing or spa has been done!

Here, the date stamp: 1966.
And the soul of the Corthays.

This is the Japanese wersion of really GOOD stiching, not on a handbag, with which it would have WON a soul, but even here, on the Seiko...it is beautiful.

Same strap from Seiko, behind.
I have worn this watch for 3 years.

This is a Vianney Halter french strap from 1998.
I wear it VERY often..almost 3 x a month.

And to stop boring you all...here is what I am about to try to analyse why I spent money buying these things, although I never needed them...or did I?




These watches changed my living and attitudes towards crafts, art and hardwork.
90% of these made me a better person.
Maybe because i kept wondering about their magical beauty.
10% of it was dark...it was about social mobility, I idn't like that as much.
I hope you enjoyed this.
best,
Bernard
The 1966 Ford Mustang represents a significant year for the model, building on the initial success of its introduction. This reference is part of the first generation, which established the Mustang as a distinct category of American automobile. It continued to offer a range of body styles and engine options, allowing for considerable personalization and appealing to a broad market segment. The 1966 model year saw refinements rather than radical changes, solidifying its design language and market position.
The vehicle's construction typically featured a steel unibody chassis. Various engine configurations were available, including inline-six and V8 options, paired with manual or automatic transmissions. Specific dimensions varied slightly depending on the body style, such as coupe, convertible, or fastback. The interior offered a functional layout, with instrumentation focused on driver information.
This reference holds interest for collectors due to its place in the early history of the Mustang and its enduring popularity. The availability of different engine and trim levels means that specific examples can vary widely in their features and performance. It remains a recognizable and sought-after classic, often celebrated at automotive events worldwide.
I never thought I would ever say 'I really like a handbag ' But the 60 cm Birkin looks amazing ! But on the other hand ... the wonderfull bag ... or a dato ..... no contest for me ;-)
Dear Bernard, What I take away from these beautiful examples is that art, hand-crafted products and beautiful workmanship carry within them what is best about humans: creativity, skills honed form endless repetition combined with innate ability, attention to detail, love, care and satisfaction in the final piece. Lovely post and examples. Here are some shots of the Corthay prêt-à-porter collection. Regards Andrew
never know they are also nice for men, I can understand what the SOUL is behind them, cheers, Eddy
To me, its simple and pure in form. That has been on my wishlist for some time, yet the mechanism is too "mass made" for something so beautiful. Are those man-bags?
Unfortunately, my wife likes not the Birkin, which the entire range, especially the luggage ones, size 45 , 50 and 60 proved very very worth their values, especially these in brass hardware with the discontinued ardennes leather.
being pure in his vision, Marc began to see his own history being written more permanently in a watch...henceforth, he chose the eta as a base, which is the only and best choice, he made..it has to be "industrial". The price was high...but again, I saw it as a Newson, and not as a watch. That way, it commands a premium, being probably the only Newson piece you can and will carry from one place to another, whether work, travel or even as an inheritance for the children. The eta makes this an idea
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