Complications
Marc Obermann's deep dive into the world of ultra-thin watches offers a compelling exploration of a horological niche often misunderstood. His personal journey, sparked by the acquisition of a Boucheron La Carree Ultra Plate, illuminates the complexities and historical significance of these elegant timepieces. Obermann challenges the community to define 'ultra-thin' beyond marketing fluff, emphasizing the exceptional skill required to craft watches under 5mm thick.
The Audemars Piguet Altiplano Ultra-Fine 1955 is a specific iteration within the Altiplano collection, distinguished by its focus on extreme thinness, a characteristic central to the Altiplano identity. This reference pays homage to the brand's heritage in ultra-thin watchmaking, reflecting a commitment to refined proportions and understated design. It represents a particular moment in the evolution of the Altiplano line, emphasizing a classic aesthetic combined with advanced horological engineering for its time.
This timepiece typically features a case crafted from precious metals, designed to house a remarkably slender manual-wind movement. The dimensions prioritize a low profile, making it suitable for formal wear. The crystal is generally sapphire, providing clarity and scratch resistance. The movement, while ultra-thin, is engineered for reliability and precision, a hallmark of the brand's approach to high-end watchmaking.
For collectors, the Altiplano Ultra-Fine 1955 appeals to those who value historical significance in ultra-thin watchmaking and a minimalist design philosophy. It stands as an example of the brand's technical prowess in miniaturization and its dedication to traditional watchmaking values. Variants within the Altiplano collection often explore different dial treatments or case materials, but the Ultra-Fine 1955 maintains a consistent focus on its core principle of slenderness.
at some point I sold it as I try not to own battery powered watches. But a great historic milestone with only 643 calibre 1356 built. Cheers, HSTE
You're right! There's no consistent definition of ultra-thin in the watch industry. A fully functioning movement under 2.0 to 2.5 mm is generally considered to be an ultra-thin watch. Generally, when such movements are cased, they are around 5-6mm thick as a cased watch. A fully functioning movement under 3mm is considered "extra-thin." The biggest part of what makes an ultra-thin movement special is that when watches are ULTRA thin, movement parts are completely different than normal movement p
It was a pleasure to read. I'm joining in with my only ultra-thin watch: a quartz Omega De Ville, ref. 195.2378, which is 32.5 x 4.3 mm. Best, Emmanuel
And have several watches with movements under 2mm but they are all a smidgeon over 5mm when encased - so not qualifying according to your definition 🤷🏻♂️ Cal.6810 at 1,98mm - designed to beat the then standard Piaget… Cal.1003 Peseaux 7001… Piaget Cal. 430… Modified Peseaux 7001…
This especially applies to your Vacheron Constantin prestige 1972 ) Marc
Thank you for sharing your thinking - and challenging over-eager marketing fluff! The closest I’ve gotten to this type of watches are the Cartier Drive Extra-Flat (6.6 mm) and the Lange 1815 Thin (6.3 mm). Both quite thin but not ultra thin and both very nice watches but not at the horological edge you describe. It is truly a complication by itself. One day… Claus The wanna-bees 😉
This thread is active on the Horological Meandering forum with 27 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
