Horological Rock Stars: The Minds Behind Watches
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Horological Rock Stars: The Minds Behind Watches

By elliot55 · Jan 16, 2013 · 15 replies
elliot55
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Elliot55's thought-provoking post celebrates the unsung heroes of haute horlogerie, the "Horological Rock Stars" who conceive and manufacture the mechanical wonders we cherish. By spotlighting individuals like Willy Schweizer of Girard-Perregaux and Jean-Claude Meylan, he shifts focus from the brands to the brilliant minds behind the movements. This article encourages readers to appreciate the human ingenuity that drives the luxury watch industry, reminding us that these artisans are the true celebrities.

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If you are reading this it is safe to say you are part of a special group of people who truly appreciate the fine art of haute horology.  In a world where all too many believe their mobile phone is the best way to know the time of day, people like us much prefer to spend thousands of dollars (over and over again, I might add) on these tiny mechanical wonders that run strictly on human power.

JLC aTryptyque - A Most Magnificent Timepiece

JLC a'Tryptyque - A Most Magnificent Timepiece

No batteries needed or wanted.  It’s a passion none of us can explain, nor should we try.  At the end of the day, it is the talented folks conceiving and manufacturing these so-called works of living art who are the brilliant minds behind that which mesmerizes us.  To me, they are total Rock Stars!

Willy Schweizer from Girard Perregaux

Willy Schweizer from Girard Perregaux

Who are these geniuses?  What do they look like?  Who are the real artisans behind these monster brands?  I am glad you asked.  Now more than ever, there are a lot of very talented folks making timepieces that capture our hearts and imaginations, always pushing the boundaries on what can be accomplished in such a very small space.  If you are the proud owner of a Girard Perregaux Chronograph, there’s a good chance it was conceived and assembled by Jumping Second front man, rock star Willy Schweizer, who also happens to specialize in the foudroyante complication.

GP Chronograph

GP Chronograph

Speaking of the foudyorante complication, when I look down at my Habring2 Foudroyante I can’t help but think of rock star power couple Maria and Richard Habring.  By the way, their Doppel 2.0 Chronograph was recently awarded Best Sports Watch at the Gran Prix D’ Horlogerie (which is sort of like The Grammy’s of the watch world), beating out major makers like Panerai, Zenith, Tag Heuer, Bucherer and Bovet.


Maria & Richard Habring

Maria & Richard Habring

Habring2 Foudroyanrte

Habring2 Foudroyanrte


Habring2 Doppel 2.0

Habring2 Doppel 2.0

Some manufacturers have a long history of executing certain complications.  Vacheron Constantine, for example, has manufactured stunning minute repeaters for well over a-hundred-and-fifty years.  If you are among the lucky few who own one of these gems, there’s a better-than-even chance it was constructed by VC rock star Chrystian LeFranco – shown here at his workbench (Stratocaster and black Spandex pants out of frame).

Chrystian LeFranco from Vacheron Constantine

Chrystian LeFranco from Vacheron Constantine


VC Patrimony Traditionelle

VC Patrimony Traditionelle


If you’re like me, then you were also born under a “Sun” sign and the Equation-of-Time complication is more up your alley.  Audemars Piguet offers this difficult-to-execute timekeeping feature through the genius of Sergio Leone.  Just like the rock star that can play several instruments, Sergio also builds AP’s Perpetual Calendar (shown).


Sergio Leone from AP

Sergio Leone from AP


APs Equation of Time

APs Equation of Time

In the world of Perpetual Calendars, if your wrist is fortunate enough to be occupied by a Roger Dubuis Excalibur, a young and very talented watchmaker by the name of Hugo Maia likely put it together – shown here at his workbench.  Is it just me, or does he look to be about the same age as Justin Bieber?



Hugo Maia from Roger Dubuis

Hugo Maia from Roger Dubuis


Hugo Maia Doppelganger, Justin Bieber

Hugo Maia Doppelganger, Justin Bieber


Roger Dubuis Excalibur

Roger Dubuis Excalibur


RD Excalibur - Construction View 1

RD Excalibur - Construction View 1


RD Excalibur - Construction View 2

RD Excalibur - Construction View 2

But if you’re into major complications (and you’ve got the resources), perhaps you are rocking a Bulgari Masterpiece Grande Sonnerie, a truly unique artisan timepiece from the hands of master watchmaker, Bernard Aeschlimann.  Like Bob Dylan or Paul McCartney, Bernard’s a living rock star legend in his own right.


Bernard Aeschlimann from Bulgari

Bernard Aeschlimann from Bulgari


Bulgari Grande Sonnerie - Construction View

Bulgari Grande Sonnerie - Construction View


Bernard Aeschlimanns Workmanship

Bernard Aeschlimanns Workmanship

Last but not least, it takes a team of horologists to create a major complication like the Reverso a’ Tryptyque from Jaeger-LeCoultre.  Enter platinum rock star designer Jean-Claude Meylan (shown here at his desk, CAD drawings on computer)...


Jean-Claude Maylan from Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jean-Claude Maylan from Jaeger-LeCoultre


... and over-the-top rock star watchmaker Mathieu Barra.  With three different faces and coming in at over 700 parts, just like being up close at a U2 concert, this breathtaking example of horological wizardry dazzles in every single way.


Mathieu Barraud from Jaeger-LeCoultre

Mathieu Barraud from Jaeger-LeCoultre


Mathieu Barraud from Jaeger-LeCoultre

Mathieu Barraud from Jaeger-LeCoultre


JLC Reverso aTryptyque 1

JLC Reverso a' Tryptyque 1


Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso A Tryptyque 2

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a' Tryptyque 2


Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso A Tryptyque 3

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a' Tryptyque 3


Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso A Tryptyque 4

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a' Tryptyque 4


Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso A Tryptyque 5

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a' Tryptyque 5


Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso A Tryptyque 6

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a' Tryptyque 6


Reverson aTryptyque CAD Drawing 1

Reverso a'Tryptyque CAD Drawing 1


Reverson aTryptyque CAD Drawing 2

Reverso a'Tryptyque CAD Drawing 2

Thanks:

HauteHorologerie.org for posting such amazing content.

Any/all those Purists whose pictures I may have inadvertently used.

Independent In Time for the Doppel 2.0 shot (and everything in general).

To all the Purists.  Keep posting great stuff.  Much appreciated.

 

- Scott
This message has been edited by elliot55 on 2013-01-16 11:19:12

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The Discussion
FR
Frederick
Jan 16, 2013
THey surely surpass anything out of Hollywood [nt]

EL
elliot55
Jan 16, 2013
I totally agree...

... of that there is no doubt. These guys are total celebrities. Only they don't have all the paparazzi following them around... which is a good thing, me thinks. - Scott

PP
pplater
Jan 16, 2013
A worthy tribute...

All too often, the names behind the brands are lost - you are right to draw them to our attention; thank you very much. On the subject of names, Vacheron Constantin should definitely take up your suggestion and align themselves with St. Constantine; indeed, their skeletons are in much better shape than his! :-) Cheers, pplater.

EL
elliot55
Jan 16, 2013
Okay, now that's a good chuckle...

... because I have never been a fan of the skeletonized movement. But I sure appreciate the work that goes into one. - Scott

AM
amanico
Jan 16, 2013
Cool post, Scott.

I am not sure JC Meylan is a designer, I'd rather see him like a watchmaker, involved in the R and D Team. But I got your point. Your post reminded me the " mise en scene" organized by GP to hilight their young talents, recently. Good points! Best, Nicolas

EL
elliot55
Jan 16, 2013
Thanks so much, Nicolas...

... As you know, putting together and interesting and compelling post is one of the biggest challenges of being a Purist. Sometimes it takes way more time than it should, and generally I'm up until two a.m. trying to get the post exactly right. Your input always means a lot, my friend. Basel 2013 or BUST! - Scott

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