Intriguing Watch Brands: Underrated Collections Overview

sham1 · 2022-04-21T05:03:45Z

Explore Bovet's 200-year legacy, in-house manufacturing, and the innovative Amadeo system. sham1 reviews the 19Thirty, Monsieur Bovet, and Virtuoso V, with community insights on craftsmanship and design.

sham1

WPS member · Independents forum

44 replies8198 views6 photos

In an era where independent watchmakers are gaining unprecedented attention, sham1 offers a compelling exploration of Bovet, a brand celebrating its 200th anniversary. sham1 highlights Bovet's unique blend of historical significance, in-house manufacturing, and innovative design, particularly the patented Amadeo system. This article delves into why Bovet, producing fewer than 1000 pieces annually, stands out for its creativity, superior finishing, and personalized customer service, drawing parallels to sham1's early encounter with a then-unknown Rexhep Rexhepi.

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With the current state of the watch industry where the big brands seem to have insufficient stock no matter how many watches they produce, some of us have directed our attention and hard earned money to independent watchmakers. In my case, I have always had a soft spot for independents, possibly due to the interaction I have had with many of them at Salon QP in London but mainly due to the creativity, originality, superior movement finishing and personalised customer service offered. I recall for example first meeting a young watchmaker at Salon QP who sat with his colleague with hardly anyone stopping at his booth and as usual like a busy body I had to stop and say hello. He then passionately described the black polishing that had gone into his watches. Like an excited teenager, he showed me his school watch which he made while at Patek Philippe and was allowed to keep it. This impressionable young man some of you might have heard of - a certain Monsieur Rexhep Rexhepi. But I digress.

The latest focus of my attention has been watches by Bovet that produces no more than 1000 pieces a year, 30% of which are bespoke made to order pieces. Coincidentally the brand celebrates its 200th year anniversary this year which makes it among the oldest watch companies. Ownership has changed many times and the brand was revived in 2001 when Monsieur Pascal Raffy bought the company and decided to produce his watches in house. He integrated the dial, case and movement making activities and introduced the patented Amadeo system to his watches in 2010 which allows a wristwatch to be converted into a pocket watch and a table clock, utilising a simple yet ingenious system.

Initially, Bovet watches were only made in precious metal but with the introduction of the more accessible 19thirty collection, the watches were also produced in steel. In 2018, Bovet won the Aiguille D'or, the top prize at the GPHG.

After careful researching of the watches currently on offer, I have shortlisted three watches, any of which I would be privileged to add to my collection. Which one ticks your fancy?!

The 19thirty in steel, The dial has six layers of lacquer.

The movement of the 19thirty fills up the 42mm case well. It has a seven day power reserve on a single barrel!

The 43mm Monsieur Bovet in red gold which is a double sided watch that can also be converted into a pocket watch or table clock

The newly launched Virtuoso V in a titanium case with an exquisite salmon dial. The case measures 43.5mm

It can be converted into a table clock too!

The reverse side is no less attractive. The watch chain is thrown in!

Key Points from the Discussion

Bovet's Amadeo system, allowing conversion from wristwatch to pocket watch or table clock, is a fascinating engineering feat, with the table clock function being particularly practical for regular use.
The unique lug design of Bovet watches is integral to the Amadeo system, enabling the watch to be worn on either side or converted, and also contributes to a comfortable fit for smaller wrists.
Bovet's deliberate low-key approach, focusing on extremely high-quality, handcrafted pieces rather than aggressive marketing, is seen as a benefit that preserves its artisan integrity, similar to brands like Wellendorff.
The personal connection forged by spending time with a brand's leader, such as Pascal Raffy, offers deeper insight into the company's ethos and character, which often reflects in the watches themselves.
Sham1 expresses concern about succession planning for independent brands like Bovet, emphasizing its importance for continuity and client trust, given the significant impact a leader's character has on the brand.
The 19Thirty collection, with its 42mm case, is considered a more accessible option, though the small crown might impact the winding experience despite its 7-day power reserve.

The Discussion

mdg

Apr 21, 2022

...but the design is too ornate for me...and I'm not a fan of the lugs.

sham1

Apr 21, 2022

I believe the lug design was necessary for the Amadeo system to work because by removing the pins in the lugs, the watch can be converted into a pocket watch or table clock or instead be able to wear trhe watch on its reverse side. In addition, the shape of the lugs allow the watch to be worn by smaller wristed folk (ie me! )

sham1

Apr 21, 2022

The Recital 15 The Dimier 29

Echi

Apr 21, 2022

The lug design is a design element in itself which may clash with an ornate dial. With the simple retrograde layout of the VV, both the lug and the dial can be complementary. Having said that, my tastes are more pedestrian. I drink coffee from a mug as opposed to a porcelain cup

sham1

Apr 21, 2022

I drink water from a mug too and can't afford to drink coffee as the watch fund always needs help!!

takman

Apr 21, 2022

Didn’t know about the amadeo system, that is quite unique. Also impressed by the 7 day power reserve. The size and thickness seems a bit much for my taste but maybe I need to see them in person! Thanks for sharing.

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Intriguing Watch Brands: Underrated Collections Overview

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