Jacob & Co. BaselWorld 2014: Astronomia and SF24

DonCorson · 2014-04-03T00:03:32Z

Explore Jacob & Co.'s horological innovations at BaselWorld 2014, featuring the Astronomia 3-axis tourbillon and SF24 GMT watch. Discover the brand's evolution.

DonCorson

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

13 replies6231 views44 photos

DonCorson's report from BaselWorld 2014 shifts focus to Jacob & Co., a brand often associated with jewelry, to highlight its emerging horological offerings. This article delves into the brand's innovative timepieces, particularly the Astronomia and SF24, challenging preconceived notions about Jacob & Co.'s place in haute horlogerie.

BaselWorld 2014 - Watches at Jacob & Co.

This year the pre-BaselWorld rumour kitchen was bubbling busily with stories of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia... and I find that they have not exaggerated.

Prominently known for the special jewels ornamenting their stand each year at BaselWorld, Jacob & Co. is not one of the places that I would usually consider as being a home for highly horological content. We remember that BaselWorld is both a jewellery and a watch fair. But I have been given the tip that among all their other jewels, there are horological jewels to be found.

One of them was introduced last year, but as Jacob has simply been off my radar screen I missed it completely. This is the GMT watch the SF24. Like on an old airport or train station sign the time zones and the corresponding hours are shown on flip panels. This may be maximisation of parts for this function, but it is also to-the-point story telling and IMHO a very successful watch design. Introduced last year at BaselWorld this watch is now being delivered to customers.

Now to this years Astronomia. We have here a 3-axis tourbillon with the dial, a globe and a 1 carat diamond turning around with the slowest tourbillon axis which is in the center of the watch. The dial is mounted with a differential so that as it travels around the case it is always oriented correctly.

The speeds of the 3 axis' are: 20 minutes a turn, 5 minutes a turn and 1 minute a turn. These rates are fast enough that it is possible to see them all moving at the same time. This makes for a kinetic sculpture of the highest kind. Both the movement and the aesthetic design are from the small team at Studio 7h38 in Vaumarcus.

Added to the kinetic sculpture of the movement, the case provides a stage for it to perform on. The bottom of the case is in dark blue aventurine with a rose gold frame. It sets the stage as before windows looking out into the night sky. The case itself is nano-particle filled epoxy with gold inserts, the crystal will be sapphire. (The prototype watch I took pictures of has a PMMA crystal, defects of which can be seen in the pictures.)

This is not an engine made to use to tell the time, although you can if you wish and it is quite legible, but is kinetic sculpture at its best. A production run of 9 pieces is planned. I imagine that there will be a pronounced reduction in world-wide productivity as there will be 9 people, who have been very productive, who will be wasting enormous amounts of time each day watching, dreaming and just enjoying these pieces when they otherwise would be getting something done.

Also new this year is the "Palatial" tourbillon collection which includes this minute repeater. The Palatial watches all have a very simple titanium cases and colored mineral glass dials. Although Jacob wants to have some of his own flair in his watches, not just standard watchmaking 101, I find these flamboyant colors with the very simple rounded titanium grey to be incongruent. The text "TOURBILLON" on the tourbillon dial is for me simply a no-go. IMHO the packaging is just not up the level of the very nice movements inside. The movements are from MHC in Geneva, a relatively new "motorist" specialised in complications grouping several ex-employees of BNB, among others.

Another interesting watch in the collection is this chronograph, the "Epic X" using hand skeletonised NOS Venus 175 movements.

For a more typically Jacob & Co. experience we round up this report with the "Brilliant" being worn by Suryia who presented me these Jacob & Co. watches. This is a steel watch set with brilliant cut diamonds, a mother of pearl dial and semi-precious colored stones as indexes.

As we can see Jacob & Co. is working hard to establish themselves as a player not only on the market for high end jewelry, but also for high end watches and to create a corresponding reputation for themselves. Most of their efforts up 'til now have been pretty dreadful, which is why I have never really spent any time to consider them. But if they can keep up their course in the direction shown by the Astronomia, which is a wonderfully poetic staging of horological prowess, I think they can have a place in haute horlogerie.

This message has been edited by DonCorson on 2014-04-03 00:14:08

Key Points from the Discussion

The Astronomia's 3-axis tourbillon, with its kinetic sculpture of a dial, globe, and diamond, is recognized as a highly interesting and visually dynamic movement, despite questions about the case design.
The SF24 GMT watch, with its flip-panel display for time zones, is praised for its innovative and successful design, reminiscent of old airport signs.
There is a debate about Jacob & Co.'s legitimacy in haute horlogerie, with some arguing that acquiring complicated movements from various makers does not equate to internal know-how or coherence, while others acknowledge their significant progress in a short time.
The author defends Jacob & Co., suggesting that the brand should be praised for taking risks and supporting young horological artists, drawing parallels to Harry Winston's Opus series.
The Epic X collection, particularly its sports watch and the use of a Venus 185 movement, garners positive attention for its design and technical aspects.
A collector points out that the Epic X Chrono 44mm shown in the pictures never went into production, making it a unique piece and a collector's dream.

The Discussion

aaronm

Apr 3, 2014

Looks like it came out of an old Gerald Genta spares box... The Astronomia is impressive, technically at least. How thick is it with that huge crystal? A

DonCorson

Apr 3, 2014

at dia. 47mm and thickness 18mm. Yes it is big, but we have seen much bigger in recent years. Don

AndrewD

Apr 4, 2014

... is definitely part of the charm of the Astronomia. Like a view onto the stage. It is amazing how far we have come with fashioning sapphire crystal in the last decade. I love the photos, Don. Thanks very much. Andrew

AnthonyTsai

Apr 4, 2014

I'm quite impressed with their new watches. They're definitely the total opposite of their 5 timezone bling watches from a while back ago. Kudos to Jacob & Co! Cheers, Anthony

Jester

Apr 4, 2014

The SF24 is very interesting. I wonder if it's got any mechanism to adjust for the time difference between the zones that observe daylight saving time and those who doesn't. As for the 3 axis tourbillon, the movement is VERY interesting but can't say nearly the same about the case design. Last but not least, I'm surprised that they can still find NOS Venus 185 from their parts bin for the Epic X. Certainly a good looking one!

Goldenlutin

Apr 5, 2014

Thanks for the interesting report. Indeed, some watches are interesting (especially the Astronomia even if there is no such complication in it). I doubt though that Jacob can claim to be part of the haute horlogerie world anytime soon. It is not because you run around with too much cash and buy all possible complicated movements from at least 4 different makers that you become a respectable brand. Even the design of the Epic (actually the whole line) has been taken over from another brand (Benja

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