New Release
Dje's report on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin range from SIHH 2008 provides a timely re-evaluation of ultra-thin watchmaking's significance. By tracing JLC's historical commitment to thin calibers, the article underscores the mastery required for such creations, a craft often overshadowed by the quartz era. This piece offers valuable context for understanding the enduring appeal and technical prowess behind JLC's ultra-thin offerings.
Ultra thin watches have lost most of their prestige in the last decades as the quartz era has made us forget the mastery they require!
On the contrary ultra thin watches remain for the calibre amateurs and the real horology fans a real proof of great talent!
Ultra thin watches took a very important place in Jaeger-LeCoultre's history. In fact Jacques-David Le Coultre came to answer Edmond Jaeger's search for ultra thin calibres in 1903. That's ultra thin calibres and LeCoultre's talents in this specialty that initiated the great encounter and the beginning of the 2Oth century's history of JLC! No less!
The record calibre 145 was the first brick, a 1.38mm thick pocket watch calibre created in 1907 and powering some great watches from that time (among them some absolutely fantastic Cartier ultra thin pocket watches).
I won't sum up now the numerous calibres developed then by LeCoultre and later Jaeger-LeCoultre! 
The most recent ultra thin calibre is the well known calibre 849! We'll see it again in the next years.
For your information it was deeply reviewed here: http://www.thepurists.com/watch/features/8ohms/jlchw/index.html
Now let's have a look at the new offerings.
Jaeger-LeCoultre 40mm Master Grande Ultra Thin auto in pink gold
The first new model is defined as the Master Grande Ultra Thin, an automatic 40mm three hands watch cased in what is indeed a thin case.
The watch is powered by a 3.98mm thick calibre 896, a small seconds version of calibre 899 with variable inertia balance and ceramic ball bearings.
The automatic calibre 896
I let you judge by yourself of the thinness of this watch. The case is apparently 8.62mm thick. What I can say is that it is indeed quite thin on the wrist.
The real eggshell colour of the new pink gold Master Ultra Thin models
The design of this watch is awesome in fact (IMO of course). No date, a small seconds, a really thin case and the great pleasure of wearing everyday an automatic watch!
I personally don't like much so far the eggshell colour of the pink gold versions' dial, but I've also seen the steel version on Janek Deleskievicz wrist and the sunray-brushed silver colour is perfect for me!
Master Grande Ultra Thin auto profile
The new mainstream choice in the range is quite probably going to be the 38mm hand wind Master Ultra Thin in steel.
This new enlarged version has a greater size, becoming a modern ultra thin. I'm glad that JLC didn't go larger than 38!
The new 38mm Master Ultra Thin hand wind in steel
The older version in 34mm is supposed to remain available and is more seen by JLC as a women's ultra thin now (something nobody will convince me of, but who cares as now I want both sizes).
The old lady in 34mm
Both models in 34 and 38mm share the same calibre 849, a real marvel of 1.85mm of thickness!
The two hand wind Master Ultra Thin models side by side, 38 vs 34
The 38mm has a stronger dial, maybe more casual than the "dresser" and simpler 34mm version.
38mm Master Ultra Thin in steel
I've long been in love with the 34mm version, that I still love but yes the larger version is dangerously appealing.
Amazing dial for the steel version
Did you know that the calibre 849 is so demanding, so thin, that it is assembled in the Watchmaking Specialties Workshop of JLC with the most complicated pieces like the minute repeaters?
The 34mm old lady simpler dial
Obviously the question we had before SIHH was about a new calibre. We would have loved to discover a new enlarged calibre but apparently there was no sufficient reason to improve on the 849. I admit it is a very appealing calibre. Now that we keep the same, can we do with it?
The new 38mm hand wind case back
In fact if you look at both backs I admit the 849 doesn't annoy me in the 38mm case. The kind of "blade" form of the cases help to admit a smaller calibre.
The old lady 34mm case back
The 38mm case is also thicker, said to be 6.31mm thick against the 5.75mm of the 34mm version. In fact I didn't notice that the watch was thicker! It works perfectly well in fact. (note from Dje: the 34mm thickness is finally 5.75mm and not 4.20mm as it was indicated to me before).
The new 38mm hand wind Master Ultra Thin profile
If you look at both profiles you'll notice that they seem very close looking.
The 34mm old lady Master Ultra Thin profile
Nicolas already presented the commemorative editions. I have a few more pics for our pleasure.
The commemorative pink gold 38mm Master Ultra Thin
If I wrote earlier that I personally don't like much the eggshell colour of the "standard" pink gold versions' dial, the chocolate dial of the commemorative edition is just gorgeous!
The real colour of the chocolate dial
The brown combo is very tasty and we can wonder why we don't see more often such colours!
Pink gold 38mm Master Ultra Thin case back
I'm not yet saying no to the old lady even if tempted by the younger sister!
The still deserving old lady
In fact I'd be happy to get a steel 38 to fit with a pink gold 34! Am I asking too much?
The superb pink gold old lady
So you understand the great news is that we have a wider choice now and only good options.
You have to find yours! I have mine!
Dje
I LOVE these!!! The movement seems too small for the case but I can live with it, since it it SUCH a fantastic movement. Someone (Jack Forster? Sorry if incorrect) suggested that this year's Basel seems to be doing its best work 'looking backward' to simple designs, IWC, Zenith, JLC Polaris and now Ultra thin, etc.... Agreed. This is a beautiful pure timepiece. Big enough now for us 'moderns' to enjoy.
...but I think the increase in thickness of the 38mm is just a way of strenghtening the watch in case of a bracelet.
Excellent choice of pictures. Thank you. After reading your report I am seriously considering getting the 38mm.
along with a "Harmonized" Reserve de Marche (that'll probably come next year). I'd love to get the auto in steel with black dial for dress - since I probably can't afford the 1833 version. -Dean
I was very interested by the old but still avalaible 34mm MUT. Now that I saw it in the flesh, I prefer the 38mm, much easier to wear than the too small for e 34mm... It's true, we had a lot of questions or fear in mind whe discovering these new MUT... Will the size be compatible with the concept of the MUT? Will its " spirit " be respected? Will we have a new movement? Etc, etc... At the end, a big YES to JLC. For the MUT 38mm, even for a the Grande MUT! If I had to make a Purist Choice, I'd go
Maybe JLC wanted to avoid legal problems.... Today's headline: FRANCE TURNS TO FINES, JAIL TO COMBAT ULTRATHIN IDEALS Passed by the lower house of parliament Tuesday, it makes the promotion of 'excessive thinness' a crime punishable by fines of up to $78,000. www.csmonitor.com
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