JCB Biver Watches: Inaugural Collection Launch

patrick_y · 2023-03-26T19:36:31Z

Explore the launch of Jean Claude Biver's eponymous watch brand and its inaugural Tourbillon Minute Repeater. Get collector insights on design, strategy, and market positioning.

patrick_y

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

91 replies19682 views9 photos

Patrick_y, a respected voice in the WatchProSite community, offers an initial assessment of the highly anticipated Jean Claude Biver (JCB) watch brand launch. His post delves into the brand's positioning, the involvement of JCB's son Pierre, and the design aesthetics of the inaugural Tourbillon Minute Repeater, providing a crucial early perspective for collectors considering this new venture.

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At a star studded party filled with watch industry executives, retail store owners and buyers, industry influencers, and journalists (but not yours truly), Jean Claude Biver, the famous watch industry veteran, announced his own line of watches. Having worked for many different watch brands such as Blancpain, Omega, Hublot, and Tag Heuer, JCB is known as an executive who knows how to market watch brands to the fullest using celebrities and creating mass market appeal. He's credited for being a part of Omega's product placement on celebrities and in famous James Bond films, and also for significantly increasing Hublot sales. He's also a friend of WatchProSite, as he helped WPS create the special line of Zenith watches and presented the watches in person to our members. While JCB's Midas touch reputation was forged on these mass market appeal brands such as Omega, Tag Heuer, and Hublot, his personal collection skews even more high end. And his own eponymous brand reflects that - the launch watch being a Tourbillon minute repeater with a micro rotor.

Monsieur Biver is approximately 70 years young and thus part of the company's operations are also helmed by his 22 year old son, Pierre Biver. I have not had the pleasure of meeting Pierre, but one who has seen quite a few things despite his short career thus far. I've had the pleasure of meeting other very young individuals in the watch industry (namely the Arnault boys) and many have convinced me that despite their age, they articulated a clear vision of what they wanted to achieve and they painted me a picture of how they plan to achieve it. Thus, I will definitely give Pierre the benefit of the doubt for now - and I hope to meet him one day.

Here are some photos of the watch. I haven't seen the watch in person (again, I was not at the launch event). I really like the dial. But the whole design is a little cold to me. Of course, the press photos are always a little cold, so we should save our judgment for when we see the watches in person. It's always very hard to launch a new watch brand - especially in a sea of competitors - consumers are spoilt for choice. The proportion of the dial looks good to my eyes, the proportions of the case which is much more 3-dimensional needs to be seen in person for me to ascertain whether or not I like it.

My favorite model so far. Made in titanium rather than white gold or platinum - I'm okay with this as titanium does usually have good sound transfer characteristics for the minute repeater. I really like the dial proportions. Not sure about the case - need to see it in person, bezel seems too slim in proportion to everything else. I'm not crazy about the Tourbillon though - balance cage looks a little small.

Wow, that's one nice box!

Rose gold with another rock dial. Very nice. Still not crazy about the case in this photo neither.

I personally rather do not like watches with a bicolor look. But maybe this design will appeal to some eyes. The watch is cased in titanium, with rose gold bezel, crown, minute repeater slide, and bracelet center-links.

Here's a nice photo of the movement. The movement is a micro-rotor automatic movement that features a two gong minute repeater and a Tourbillon. Details however are sparse, but the devil is in the details. I personally prefer the slower beat of an 18,000 vph movement as it's more visually pleasing to my eyes, this one has a 21,600 vph. Balance cage is also a little smaller than I'd like (the faster the beat, the smaller the balance, generally).

The blue rock dial is made from coring a stone.

The exquisite dial.

The watch starts at 520,000 CHF or Euros! That's a lot of money! There's a saying that's mostly attributed to Henry Ford, "Sell to the masses, dine with the classes" suggesting that if you make a product with mass market appeal, you will become very wealthy. There's another saying that's a twist on Ford's quote, "sell to the classes, and you'll dine with the masses." Suggesting the upper end market is sometimes too small for new market entrants. We'll see if Biver is able to make it work. I'm not thrilled with the design so maybe this watch isn't for me - but considering Biver's track record, he may find a market for this watch!

About the Omega Seamaster Ref. 007Edition

The Omega Seamaster 007 Edition, reference 210.92.42.20.01.001, distinguishes itself within the Seamaster Diver 300M collection through its specific aesthetic and material choices. This particular reference offers a distinct interpretation of the Seamaster Diver 300M, setting it apart from standard production models with its unique dial and bezel execution, and the use of lightweight titanium for both the case and bracelet. It represents a focused design within the broader Seamaster lineage.

This edition features a 42mm case crafted from grade 2 titanium, paired with a domed sapphire crystal that enhances its vintage-inspired appearance. The watch is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, an automatic movement certified to meet the industry's highest standards of precision, chronometric performance, and magnetic resistance. It offers a power reserve of 55 hours and is water-resistant to 300 meters.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Seamaster Diver 300M with a specific material and color palette. Its cohesive design, from the tropical brown dial to the titanium mesh bracelet, creates a unified presentation. The absence of a date complication further contributes to its clean and symmetrical dial layout, a detail often appreciated by enthusiasts.

Specifications

Caliber: Omega 8806

Case: Titanium

Diameter: 42mm

Dial: Tropical brown

Water Resist.: 300m

Crystal: Domed sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Stone dials, while historically challenging to sell for brands like Piaget and Roger Dubuis, are presented with a unique and modern aesthetic in the Biver watches, particularly complemented by the special bracelet design.
The decision to launch with ultra-complications and a limited initial production of only 12 watches is a clever strategy, especially given the high price point and the current market's saturation.
Journalists often face pressure to provide positive coverage to maintain access to brands and events, making truly critical reviews rare in the industry.
The industry's system of managing press relations has created a cynical cohort of collectors who observe a significant disconnect between public reviews and private opinions.
The design of the inaugural Biver watch, particularly in renders, appears less attractive and potentially 'cheap' to some, despite the promised high-quality movement finishing.
There's skepticism about the long-term sustainability of a brand built solely on ultra-high-end, six-figure timepieces, questioning if it can endure without a more accessible product line like established brands such as Patek Philippe.

The Discussion

Mar 26, 2023

He is one of my favorite entrepreneurs of all time, and seems like a total class act. It's good seeing he's doing well health-wise, as in an interview he mentioned he had cancer. The watch isn't personally my thing aesthetically and definitely more than I can spend, but I am sure he will make this company successful just like he has his other companies. The movement is beautiful.

gadalex

Mar 26, 2023

I personally think he should have gone for a time only watch, perhaps with an interesting escapement, observatory tested and well finished. Pricing would have been more in line with other independents and the whole project wouldn't look like a money grab. After all, the watch has technically only got one complication!! The typography for the brand also looks out of place. I genuinely think the only people who were REALLY keen to see this release were probably those who were going to be invited t

FabR

Mar 26, 2023

Of course I'm sure you received it too, but here's also the release they sent with the requirements for the "JCB Seal." I haven't seen it published anywhere yet, so here it is below for our interested members! Cheers.

patrick_y

Mar 26, 2023

Aesthetics can be very personal, and so far the pictures aren't getting me too excited. Of course, an in-person viewing may change that. I thank JCB for what he's done to help our favorite industry survive! And I too wish him continued good health!

andrea~

Mar 26, 2023

That being said, I have a good thing to say, a bad one and a neutral thought. 1) The bad: I don't find the design attractive. It looks cheap (maybe it's because of the renders). 2) The good: the finishing of the movement really seems as good as they promised. 3) I am curious when considering the upward direction that a lot of the newer brands are taking. Is it really sustainable to base your brand on only selling watches in the hundreds of thousands? Even Patek has a comprehensive line of "cheap

patrick_y

Mar 26, 2023

All the press releases are coming in all at once! It's madness! Now, that's a long list of seal requirements!

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JCB Biver Watches: Inaugural Collection Launch

About the Omega Seamaster Ref. 007Edition

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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