Kong's article introduces Ladoire, a brand that challenges traditional watchmaking with its distinctive design philosophy. This piece explores the brand's origins, its 'rebel' designer Lionel Ladoire, and the unique aesthetic that sets Ladoire watches apart from conventional timepieces. The discussion highlights the polarizing nature of Ladoire's avant-garde approach.

Ladoire  --  A Watch For 'Our Time

Text: MTF

Photos: Kong

Lionel Ladoire (Designer) and Richard Piras (CEO)

I have a confession to make. When I first heard of the Ladoire brand a few years ago, I glibly dismissed it as a designer brand for the boom years and before our last global financial crisis.  This may have been because we had a spate of 'New Age' brands introduced at about the same time.

Another reason is that even today, Ladoire has maybe only 20 points of sale worldwide; so very few people have actually seen a watch let alone hold it in their hand.  A self-avowed 'rebel', Lionel Ladoire likes to design for a lifestyle in keeping with the influences of Philippe Stark, Christian Lacroix, Andy Warhol and Jean-Paul Gaultier, as well as the Rock/Underground world. (Check out his immaculately lacquered finger nails!)

As a member of a family of four generations of jewellers, Lionel had twenty years experience in fine jewellery before branching into micro-mechanics of watchmaking. He also brings the attitude of a surfer and rock drummer into his current job title of conceptual watchmaker.

Founded in 2007, the brand would not succeed without the rest of the band that contribute their particular expertise. Enter friend and partner, Richard Piras (business dude), movement constructors and watchmakers (formerly from Patek Philippe) and a whole slew of suppliers from Geneva to Schaffhausen.

The driving motif of Ladoire watches is to be different. Not for them is the traditional timepiece with the hands on one axis and the 12-3-6-9 layout. Hence the first model was the RGT (Roller Guardian Time) regulator with off-set time displays on a planetary system. Then, the Black Widow collection appeared followed by the eponymous multi-coloured variants: Mr. Green , Mr. Ice , Mr. Grey and Mr. Race. The last being in association with a new Ford GT40 racing team.

Now all we need is a Mr Orange to get one or two PuristS excited!  

But seriously, what do you get for your CHF 140k or more ? 

First off, that is one heavy chunk of gold sculpted as one would expect a trained jeweller to do well. I'm not a gold appraiser but I suspect the amount of gold is about CHF 7500 - 10,000 already in the case alone without workmanship. With limited editons of about 12 pieces per variant and a total annual production 0.02% of Rolex, Ladoire can make almost a bespoke timepiece.  In fact, they do take on commissioned piece uniques.

Check out the thick sapphire glass curved in 2 dimensions without distortion; probably only 2 suppliers can do that in Switzerland.

Look at the white gold case here. 

Most of the the world's so called 'or gis' (grey gold) is standard yellow gold alloyed with cheaper nickel or manganese. The result is a 'whiter' shade of yellow and the final rhodium plating gives a 'white shiny gold' finish. 

Ladoire 'or gris' cases are really 'grey' or white gold because they use a higher proportion of palladium in their alloy and the result is left un-plated. The brushed satin finsh just allows the 'or gris' to glow gently.  A subtle point but to the connoisseur of fine goldsmithing, the detail is appreciated.

All the Ladoire movements are conceived and designed as proprietary in-house movements.

The movement constructor is a famous ex-Patek Philippe designer so it is not surprising that both current movements - Calvet/o1 and Calvet/o2 -  have micro-rotor automatic winding and Breguet overcoil balance springs.

Yet , they are not standard movements with display on one axis because of the planetary mechanism and ceramic ball bearing system.

Ladoire were one of the first (if not the first) to have colour finishing on their movements.

"I am the god of hell fire and I bring you...
Fire, I'll take you to burn.
Fire, I'll take you to learn.
I'll see you burn........"

Conclusion:

Ladoire watches are NOT for the masses. The company's own study has defined their demographic as affluent (obviously), 30 - 55 years age, male, aficionados of fine living and products; owners of timepieces but not necessarily 'collectors'. The designs are meant to be avant-garde comtemporary but never to be dated.

It take a certain sense of style to carry off a Ladoire watch. The "television" shape allows a larger watch as the long axis is along the wrist. The substantial and sculpted wrist bands allow for complete security and fit so the massive watch is not dangling on the wrist like a limp lettuce.

The owner needs to "have a relationship with the watch", in the words of  CEO Richard Piras, because the reading of time needs some getting used to.

It is certainly not a beginner's watch nor an 'Only' watch. It possibly comes under the category of 'alternative timepiece' or 'weekend watch', for the times when you don't feel like another boring Patek Philippe, IWC, Vacheron Constantin or Breguet.

It's for when you want to rip off your singlet in the rain at an Aerosmith concert screaming "Pink, it's my new obsession......" while the fire ants are crawling on your tongue.

It's for those moments, dude;  we all get them...............

But only 12 people get to know what it feels like....per variant.

MTF and Kong, 2012.