A. Lange & Söhne 2017 Collection Paris
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A. Lange & Söhne 2017 Collection Paris

By foversta · May 14, 2017 · 9 replies
foversta
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foversta provides an initial look at A. Lange & Söhne's 2017 collection showcased at the Paris boutique, focusing on the Lange One Moonphase and the 1815 Annual Calendar. This post offers early impressions and comparisons, setting the stage for more detailed reviews while highlighting the aesthetic and practical considerations of these new releases. It also addresses the absence of more complicated pieces, a point of interest for many collectors.

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So here it is! The 2017 collection landed on Paris and it will be displayed till the 24th of May at the Lange boutique located rue de la Paix. Well, when I say the 2017 collection, it is not the full one since the complicated watches are missing and I regret it. These pieces obviously contribute to the Lange prestige and it is a pity that the people who couldn't/can't attend the SIHH don't have the opportunity to see them. So the Honey Gold Zeitwerk Decimal Minute Repeater, the Tourbograph Perpetual Calendar and the Lange 31 days in WG didn't join the party. I hope to have the ability to see them one day...



Having said that, I was happy to discover the two key pieces of the year: the Lange One Moonphase and the 1815 Annual Calendar. I will prepare reviews of both watches. In the meantime, I propose you to discover the first pictures I took during my visit and of course my first feelings.

If we consider that the Lange One Moonphase was actually introduced at the end of 2016 with the pre-SIHH event, the keystone watch of the SIHH was the 1815 Annual Calendar. It is not a surprise to see such timepiece and the way Lange designed the watch and the dial lay-out is not surprising either.

The watch is available in PG (my fav version) and in WG and of course, we find again some similarities with the 1815 Perpetual PC lay-out. The date is displayed here again with a small hand and I have to confess it is not very legible at least for me. Maybe I shall start to wear glasses.

The question is to know which is the most convincing Annual Calendar between this watch and the Saxonia Annual Calendar. In a pure design point of view, I prefer the 1815 which embodies a more "Lange" style. But when it comes to the practical point of view, the Saxonia is a clear winner. The data are more legible and I don't even speak about the big date display. After all, for a calendar watch, what is the most important display? The date... And the fact that it is an automatic watch allows the use of the winder what is not the case of the 1815 (but it is an easy watch to set). 

The 1815 Annual Calendar offers a great balance thanks to its 40mm even if the dial looks busier than with the Saxonia Annual Calendar. A positive point is that this watch gives the ability to enjoy a moonphase display in an 1815 context with a more affordable price than with the 1815 Rattrapante PC:




The white gold version:



Both watches are powered by the caliber L051.3 with a 3 day power reserve. You will notice the typical click and click spring. I appreciate that the ratchet and the crown wheel are visible:



The Lange One Moonphase is a classic of the Lange collection. It is the reason why the new version should bring something new and not just the "copy and paste" version of the previous Lange One Moonphase in the context of the new Lange One (which is in its case a very close version, aesthetically speaking of the previous one). Kudos to the Lange team who had the great idea to add a complication which is perfectly integrated in the dial lay-out. By combining the moophase and day night displays, Lange brings an extra animation on the dial even if the complications remain slow. But what a pleasure to see the sky moving all day long...

And the blue color of the disk is beautiful, even when there isn't any star on it... we also appreciate it!

No star on the disk... but who cares? The blue is beautiful!



Stars are back!




The Lange One Moonphase is available in PG, Platinum and White Gold. This last version is by far my fav one due to the contrast between the subdial and the black dial.

The Lange One Moonphase is powered by the movement L121.3 with a 3 day power reserve:



Lange has the objective to be more ambitious toward ladies customers. And this Little Lange One Moonphase is a proof of this ambition. The pink gold case diameter is 36,8mm vs the classic 38,5mm of the Lange One. The watch features a beautiful guilloché dial which makes it very refined if not sophisticated.

The Little Lange One Moonphase is a really beautiful watch but which would have deserved, in my point of view, a different color range.  I'm not sure that the very clear and white details are always welcome. The other question I have is to know if women are seduced by this type of watch or if they prefer the classic Lange One Moonphase. To be honest, the concept of ladies' and men's watches is fading and I'm sure that several men will buy this watch and several ladies will buy the classic Lange One Moonphase.

The beautiful dial of the Little Lange One Moonphase:



The watch is powered by the movement L121.2 with a 3 day power reserve. It is obviously based on the new Lange One movement as you can see it with the location of the balance wheel by the crown:




Please note that the Saxonia with MOP dials are also visible. They are very difficult watches to shoot so I prefer that you see them by yourselves, my pictures gave a poor rendering of the shades of light of the dial.

I would like to thank a lot the staff of the Lange boutique of Paris.

Fx

About the A. Lange and Söhne Emil Lange Ref. 1815

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 reference 206.032, introduced in 1999, is a notable example of the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking principles. This model is part of the 1815 collection, which pays homage to the birth year of Ferdinand Adolph Lange and emphasizes classic design elements such as Arabic numerals and blued hands, drawing inspiration from historical Lange pocket watches. It represents a more understated and purist aesthetic compared to some of the brand's more complex offerings, focusing on fundamental horological excellence.

This particular reference features an 18k rose gold case measuring 36mm in diameter and 7.5mm in thickness. It houses the manually wound L941.1 caliber, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front, protecting a solid silver dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion.

The 1815 206.032 appeals to collectors who appreciate classical proportions and a focus on fundamental watchmaking without excessive complications. Its smaller case size reflects a more traditional approach to men's wristwatches, making it a desirable piece for those seeking a discreet yet highly refined timepiece. The combination of rose gold and a silver dial offers a warm and legible presentation, consistent with the collection's historical inspirations.

Specifications

Caliber
L941.1
Case
18k rose gold
Diameter
36mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
AL
Alkiro1
May 14, 2017

A bad shot taken recently. Best wishes Alkiro

CL
Clueless_Collector
May 14, 2017

so I think it is a win-win for couples. Thanks for the nice review. Rgds Raymond

TH
TheMadDruid
May 14, 2017

Your points about he ACs are well-made, and yet I still prefer the 1815-I like how it harkens back to the PW aesthetic. And I agree with others here that the WG Lange 1 MP is the real winner of the new collection. Just beautiful and the D/N MP is cool and practical.

AM
amanico
May 14, 2017

When in 2016 there was one or two Lange which pleased me... Best, Nicolas

SH
sham1
May 14, 2017

I am partial towards the Little Lange but need to see it in the flesh I cannot imagine myself wearing a white strap so I am hoping that Lange come up with an alternative dial colour and strap in their next collection.

WI
willski
May 14, 2017

The 1815 AC is well done, and I think a good value offering from Lange as it's not much more than the Saxonia MP (if I remember correctly). However from a practicality point of view though, the big date and automatic movement of the Saxonia AC make it an easier 'daily' watch I think... The new L1 moonphase are gorgeous in my eyes; the WG/black dial in particular is a beauty:

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