
Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, delves into the enduring legacy of the Lemania Chronograph Calibre 2310. His comprehensive post highlights how this iconic movement, developed by Albert-Gustave Piguet, has been adopted and personalized by some of horology's most prestigious brands. This article explores the nuanced differences and aesthetic choices made by Omega, Breguet, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin in their respective interpretations of the CH 27.












The Patek Philippe World Time reference 2523, launched in 1953, is distinguished by its innovative two-crown system. One crown serves for winding the watch, while the second, positioned at 9 o’clock, controls the city disc. This design marked a significant development in the functionality and user experience of world time complications for the brand.
The reference 2523 was offered in two primary versions. The initial ref. 2523 featured larger lugs that extended above the bezel, with a case diameter of 35.5 mm. A subsequent variant, ref. 2523/1, presented a slightly larger diameter of 36 mm and thinner lugs that were integrated without extending above the bezel. Both versions were powered by the caliber 12-400 HU, which incorporated the world time module developed by Louis Cottier.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's historical advancements in complicated watchmaking, particularly the evolution of its World Time series. The distinct design differences between the 2523 and 2523/1, especially regarding lug integration and case dimensions, provide specific points of interest for enthusiasts tracking the model's development and variations.
Had one on a couple weeks ago.
Of these I'd go with the Cornes de Vache or RD, the I like the 5070 movement the most, but it is just too large and the movement is too small for the case.
It's unfortunate that the finishing quality of the CH 27-20 was unsustainable in the modern era. It's good news that this classic movement continues to be offered today. I will stretch the defintion a bit to say that my favourite implementation is Fleury Manufacture's FM04. It has neither the uninterrupted heritage, nor the best of the movement finishing (still excellent). What it does provide is a modernized 32.5 mm diameter (source: Monochrome Watches), making it appropriate for a modern case
But there’s something I like better in Omega, RD and PP: the large balance wheel and 2.5Hz frequency.
But there’s something I like better in Omega, RD and PP: the large balance wheel and 2.5Hz frequency instead of 3Hz with the 1142 and 533. Aesthetically, I prefer the Y-shaped (RD, PP, VC) chrono bridge to the U-shaped one (Omega, Breguet) and the Maltese cross column wheel (VC) to the capped one from PP. Best, Emmanuel
I wasn’t aware of it. It’s quite nice, even if I’m personally not very fond of the shape of the chrono bridge. I much prefer the traditional U or Y shape. But it’s great to see this modern take. Best, Emmanuel PS: I added the movement of the steel version to your comment.
This thread is active on the Horological Meandering forum with 28 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →