Longines Baselworld 2013 Novelties Overview

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Marcus Hanke's Baselworld 2013 report for Longines details the brand's strategy of consolidating its lineup with new variants of existing models, rather than entirely new releases, following its 180th anniversary. He highlights the "Heritage Military 1938" series as the sole exception and provides an overview of updates across the Grande Classique, Conquest Classic, and Hydroconquest lines, with a particular focus on the exclusive column-wheel chronograph movement.

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Longines at Baselworld 2013
presented by Marcus Hanke

This year Certina and Tissot are celebrating their anniversaries, while last year it was Longines’ turn. To celebrate its 180th anniversary, Longines released a large array of great new watches in the Anniversary and Saint Imier-collections. However, there was some serious delay in getting these watches to the dealers, unfortunately.

This year, the manufacturer seems to consolidate the growth of its line-up, so the number of novelties is not very large. Additionally, there are no completely new models, but rather new variants of existing models, the only exception being the three-piece series “Heritage Military 1938”.

To begin with, last year’s limited edition ladies’ timepiece “Grande Classique” has received a non-limited counterpart, with less diamonds on the bezel - 100 jewels, to be exact.

The Conquest Classic series has got a few nice additions: The ladies’ variant has a diameter of 29.5mm and is equipped with the self-winding cal. ETA 2000 movement. It is offered in a manifold of versions, with or without diamonds on bezel and/or dial, stainless steel, 18k gold, or in combination, dials in mother of pearl, black or white.

The gentlemen’s three hands watch is 40mm wide and powered by the ETA 2892A2. It, too, comes in several variants of case material and dial colours.

Most interesting model in my opinion is the chronograph, which is similar to last year’s St Imier collection, but has an - Omega-inspired - deck plank-like dial structure. The case is 41mm wide and also available in steel, steel-gold or 18k gold.

Most interesting, however, is the movement: The cal. Caliber L688.2 (ETA A08.L01), an iteration of the well-known ETA 7753 (which again is the tri-compax variant of the 7750) was developed exclusively for Longines and features a column-wheel chronograph mechanism and a power reserve of 54 hours.

The next series receiving some facelift is the Hydroconquest line of diving watches. The changes on the three hands timepieces are not spectacular, and limited to some spots of colour on the register and/or the bezel. Diameters are 39 and 41mm, movement is the ETA 2892A2.

Of more interest is the new Hydroconquest chronograph, which also receives the exclusive cal. 688.2 movement with column wheel. I like that the dial discontinues the oversized numerals that had cluttered the counters of the predecessing 7750 version. However, the date window at 4:30 is a bit disturbing in the layout, which altogether appears rather busy.

Finally, a completely new series of three timepieces is launched as the Heritage Military 1938, some very soberly designed, classic military/pilot style watches with steel cases, onion crowns, black dials with large luminous Arabian numerals.

The three hands model is 40mm wide and equipped with the ETA 2892A2.

In my opinion the timepiece more refined in style and mechanics is the 24 hours model with the second time zone. Its 42mm case is nicely filled by the ETA A07 171 Valgranges movement.

Finally, the Military 1938 chronograph is 42mm wide and features a classic bi-compax layout with small second at 9 and 30 minutes counter at 3. Its movement is not the column wheel cal. L688, but rather the more conventional ETA A07 231 Valgranges, the enlarged variant of the 7750.

This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-05-29 06:30:42

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-05-29 08:57:23 This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-06-01 10:49:19

Key Points from the Discussion

The Longines Military 1938 is appreciated for its design, particularly the date placement at 6 o'clock, which is considered aesthetically pleasing despite a general preference against dates.
The prevalence of date complications in watches is a response to consumer preference, as many individuals rely on their watch for the date and find watches without it inconvenient.
Longines' current strategy, with 'me-too' designs and cost-cutting, positions it as a mass-market brand within the Swatch Group, targeting the upper entry-level segment and competing with brands like Tag Heuer.
Despite the current collection's perceived shortcomings, Longines has produced interesting and potentially collectible pieces in previous years, such as the slanted big monopusher chronograph.
There is a strong sentiment that Longines' current offerings, particularly the chronographs, do not live up to the brand's glorious past, with a desire for more sophisticated movements.
While some collectors appreciate watches without dates for aesthetic reasons, many find themselves 'date-dependent' and struggle with watches lacking this function, even developing a peculiar fondness for date windows at 4:30.

The Discussion

amanico

May 29, 2013

The miltiary is a nice looking piece, but with a date??? If only Longines could go for a nice movement for their chronograph... Yes, yes, I know, I sound like a broken record, but when you know the glorious past of this brand, it is a pity to see the present. Best, Nicolas

nilomis

May 29, 2013

That Swatch is doing across their entire line. Longines is targeting the upper entry level watches and they should be successful with this approach. Of course, they are far from their glorious past but Swatch needs to fill all market spaces. Cheers, Nilo

foversta

May 29, 2013

Tissot did a great collection and I was very disappointed by Longines. Thanks a lot for for your detailed report. Fx

foversta

May 29, 2013

At least, one watch without... but no, the whole collection was with this date. So I asked them why because I would never buy such kind of watch with a date. Answer: people prefer with the date, some don't but at the end, there are more people in the first category. A perfect example when a brand doesn't speak to you so in that case, you go elsewhere. Fx

Marcus Hanke

May 29, 2013

... who forget the date within a few hours. Looking on the phone is no alternative: open protective cover, push button to activate smartphone, wipe over screensaver/star screen, and - in my case - start calendar app, vs. looking on the wrist. I have only two watches without date, and have problems when wearing them. Regarding the Longines Military: Barely any type of watch has been produced so often by numerous manufacturers as the military/pilot type. The choice is so vast that I think Longines

nilomis

May 29, 2013

I got a watch without the date. Esthetic wise is cool but I learned that I'm a "date depended" and the watch entered the long list of ex-watches. Of close, since we all have our psiquic issues, I cannot resist a watch with the date at 4:30. Irresistible! Cheers, Nilo

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