Mahesh's detailed examination of the LVRR-01 chronographe à sonnerie provides a crucial, purist-focused look at the AkriviA-Louis Vuitton collaboration. His analysis delves into the horological innovations and design philosophy behind this complex timepiece, offering WatchProSite readers an essential perspective beyond the initial industry buzz. This article is particularly valuable for understanding the technical choices, such as the 5-minute tourbillon and dedicated chiming barrel, that define this unique creation.
Since the teaser about the collaboration was announced in social media, hand-full of people were pondering about such collaborations.
The reactions are natural, given there is less commonality between the 169 years old Louis Vuitton and just a decade old small independent brand like AkriviA.
Well, the detailed announcement and interviews brought in more clarity on the purpose of the collaboration, how it helps independent watchmaking and 4 such collaboration with other independents will follow soon.
Leaving those discussions aside, I wanted to look at the passionate side for purists like us - the timepiece itself and the elements around it !
LVRR-01 chronographe à sonnerie :We all know for the fact that most of the complications we're seeing today, are often inventions and works of greats like Abraham-Louis Breguet, Christiaan Huygens, Ferdinand Berthoud and recent greats like George Daniels. It is not that often we come across a complete new usage of complications in a very practical manner but before going into those details, first thing first...
LVRR-01 timepiece is a 5 minute tourbillon with a monopusher chronograph and chiming functions...a grand complicated timepiece.
The overall design separates the information into 2 dials...
Face of the timepiece tells the time (as it should ;-) ) and displays the 5 minutes tourbillon.
Why 5 minute tourbillon ?
Earlier AkrviA timepieces have had 1 minute tourbillon with one additional complication often. With 3 complications on this timepiece, the challenge is to maintain Chronometry given the inertia of a 1 minute tourbillon will be quite high.
Rexhep chose to slow down the tourbillon rotation to 5 minutes, there by achieving lower inertia which helps to maintain Chronometry while gaining on power reserve too.
Now, the 2nd face of the timepiece is dedicated to a 60 minute chronograph function on the White grand feu enamel dial with a traditional railway track imprint.
The chronograph is operated by the pusher at 2'0 clock. Simple straight forward information with twin centrally mounted hands, one in RED dedicated for 60 minutes counter and the other, the chronograph hand.
The movement is visible from the front of the watch, thanks to the smoked sapphire dial. I would expect the finish is at par with any other AkriviA watches made by Rexhep.
Aesthetically this is different to the AriviA dials but more with the essence of LV and this could bring passionate discussions of course.
There are 6 mini-enamel squares on the dial inspired by the motifs of LV design and the AkriviA logo on the dial eloquently fuses LV logo in it.
In-house developed and made, twin barrel movement with 72 hours PR and with 21600 vph heartbeat.
One barrel is dedicated to time keeping and chronograph function, while the 2nd is dedicated to chiming.
But why dedicating a power source for chiming ?
Now that is where the ''very first'' novel use of complication kicks-in....when the chronograph is activated, the timepiece chimes at each minute !
Given the chronograph is on the 2nd dial, Chiming comes in handy for the wearer to know the passing of each minute on the chronograph counter i.e. 60 times in an hour of running the chronograph.
Case is hand-made by Mr. Hagmann, made in Platinum measures 39mm x 12mm, inspired by the Tambour case design from Louis Vuitton.
Viewing from the side, one can see the symmetry of the case with the back case mirroring the bezel step giving a smaller visual presence.
The overall looks is brushed and the lugs are curved downwards sharply enabling better fit on the wrist.
Also the crown and the monopusher is heptagonal shaped marked with LV logo.
Of course, Great things comes in Great packages too...a hand-made, hand-painted traditional Louis Vuitton trunk !
This 10 timepieces officially marks the end of AkriviA brand, The watchmaker have decided to bring all future timepieces under one brand name ''REXHEP REXHEPI"
Concluding thoughts,
Of course this is 10 timepiece only and high price point which remains out of reach for most of us, but what I tend to appreciate as a collector...
- novel use of chiming that have never been used before by any watchmaker.
- technically impressive movement, case build quality and of course rarity.
- collaboration for a good cause - the profit of the 10 pcs goes on to support, enable young independent watchmakers through recognition & mentorship.
- 4 more independent watchmakers will engage in such collaboration to support the cause...so more new watches, new movements and new possibilities.
Of course, I'm saddened by the departure of 'AkrviA' brand name now-on, but I do hope there will be some limited use of this in future by Rexhep at right milestones.
Let me know your thoughts about the timepiece....
