Luxury Watch AD Issues: Collector Discussion
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Luxury Watch AD Issues: Collector Discussion

By enjoythemusic · Mar 3, 2026 · 42 replies
enjoythemusic
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
42 replies4659 views1 photos
f 𝕏 in πŸ’¬ βœ‰ πŸ”—

Long-time collector enjoythemusic shares a common dilemma for seasoned enthusiasts: navigating the evolving landscape of luxury watch retail. As their tastes mature beyond mainstream brands, they question the value of traditional Authorized Dealers and explore the allure of independent watchmakers and the secondary market. This discussion delves into the challenges of finding unique, durable timepieces that resonate with a collector's refined preferences.

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First, love my AD and they've been quite good to me and my wife for about a decade, but recently it seems they lost the plot. Like many here, been migrating away from typical mass-produced mainstream brands and, considering decades as a collector, like many here we're no longer impressed with high-output mass-production from PP, VC, ALS, etc. Sure there's a rare PP vintage repeater or vintage 3940 and did like ALS until their game-play with customers and heard accuracy is meh........  guess you could say typical Big Box Store mainstream three-handers and chrono products seem meh to me (other than the Snoopy, it seems fun). 

Guess you could say i'm bored. Actually, no guess... am very bored. and so...........

Texted my AD saying i'm bored..... he came back a day or two later with a CPO gold Rolex and a basic Jacob & Co. ..... in baby blue.

Speaks volumes.

Obviously, it might be time to find a new AD, but with the secondary pricing now being quite attractive for some pieces, and the great in independent watch making smartly only selling direct (Simon Brette, RR, Kari V, etc), is it time i move up to the next level away from ADs? Generally desire 50 to 100m WP rating, and since i no longer have to wear a Monkey Suit, formal gold watches are for those still doing things that require that (read: not me).

Surely a few of you tech / investor guys have been through this. Is it time to enjoy the great bargains in the mainstream secondary market as the downturn continues, and there are some nice 'bargains' out there.

Am not much into formal timepieces, my tuxes gather dust, i gave away my M2M suits....  should i re-contact Simon and start writing a passionate letter to Simon Brette, and (once again after decades) reconnect with Kari V and we custom create a durable timepiece.

Prefer something durable, 100m WP. 

Perhaps keep my plan with an MB&F Sequential Evo, but find a different AD than my current one / go secondary market like M2 did ???

Help.

Signed,

Perplexed




About the MB&F HM3

The HM3 Frog represents MB&F's early exploration into three-dimensional horological architecture, marking a pivotal moment in the brand's evolution from traditional watchmaking toward sculptural timekeeping instruments. Introduced as part of the Horological Machine series, the HM3 established the foundation for MB&F's approach to case construction that prioritizes visual impact and mechanical innovation over conventional watch design principles.

The distinctive domed crystal construction houses dual rotating drums that display hours and minutes through apertures on the case sides, eliminating the traditional dial entirely. The automatic movement features a rotor positioned at the case back, with power transmission occurring through a complex series of gears that redirect energy to the time display mechanisms. This architectural approach creates the characteristic bulbous profile that earned the watch its amphibian nickname.

Collector interest in the HM3 remains strong due to its position as an early statement piece from MB&F's formative period. The model's production numbers were limited, and its bold design language appeals to collectors seeking alternatives to traditional luxury watch aesthetics. Market values reflect both the technical complexity of the movement and the watch's role in establishing MB&F's reputation for avant-garde horology.

Specifications

Case
titanium
Diameter
47mm
Dial
black

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
JO
JoshTheCanadian
Mar 3, 2026
What I’ve Done…

Develop a relationship with a dealer that you trust, and go from there. You like independents? There are dealers that move, quietly, a lot of watches from independents (including with provisions that buyer cannot sell for β€œx” years or cannot sell until β€œy” watches have come to auction). Aside from a modern Rolex here and there, I buy all my watches now from a handful of dealers. And they have treated me a lot better than most ADs have (note, I have a good relationship with my AD - but I’m not th

SA
SALMANPK
Mar 3, 2026
I hear you, experienced something similar in 2008, thats when I discovered Seiko and went down the rabbit hole with Independents...

The best thing for me was meeting with other collectors and watchmakers directly, no harm in slowing down and enjoying what you have πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘ PS: I forgot to Add, Vintage Watches have been extremely rewarding and challenging, highly recommend it

EN
enjoythemusic
Mar 3, 2026
Love vintage, admire the early efforts... but i like to wear them.

Agree in slowing down, it's been 7 months since... wife even offered to offset Snoopy costs, tho thanked her and passed. To be sure, these are all just fun items of joy, to admire.... Wife suggested i get a fun car, but in my prime-ish have been there, done that, and (literally) earned the Driver's Championship. Even thought about getting a couple CW, but why? They're fun pieces are nice, love the chimer in purple, but getting the other fun timepieces just to get and 'fill' ____ seems ..........

SA
SALMANPK
Mar 3, 2026
You Can Wear Them 😊

111 Years Old, Takes a Lickin and Keeps on Tickin 😁

JO
JoshTheCanadian
Mar 3, 2026
I second the vintage suggestion

I’ve got more joy from collecting and hunting vintage watches than any of my prior collecting phases. Rewards time and research.

VI
vitalsigns
Mar 3, 2026
Bag it all and buy that Simon Brette :)

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