Luxury Watch Quality Control Issues Discussion
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Luxury Watch Quality Control Issues Discussion

By m2 · Nov 8, 2024 · 48 replies
m2
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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In a thought-provoking post, m2 challenges the WatchProSite community to define acceptable quality issues in luxury watches. He posits that expectations should vary significantly between vintage rarities and modern, high-end independent watchmaking. m2's insights spark a lively debate, particularly concerning the perceived quality and manufacturing processes of esteemed independent watchmakers like Roger Smith, Greubel Forsey, and Haldimann.

I thought this would be a fun topic. For me, it depends on the price range of the watch and what reasons I’m buying for. 

If you are buying a small production vintage patek or rolex, you aren’t expecting some magical jump in quality. You’re paying for rarity/low production. 

But where I do expect perfection is expensive independents or modern watches. 

I think for example the difference between the Handmade 1 by Greubel and Roger Smith is pretty crazy. I’d throw haldimann into that mix too and RS is nowhere close to either. 

Some will bring up the handmade thing re: RA but RS isn’t even handmade anymore and has been using cnc for a long time but has very low quality standards; contrast vs Greubel’s handmade 1 or Haldimann who seem flawless and are handmade.  

The watch listed at Christie’s up for auction this month is a good example and Quill and Pad did a good write up too
 

So where do you draw the line? What’s unacceptable! What is? 









This message has been edited by India Whiskey Charlie on 2024-11-08 01:19:15

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The Discussion
CL
Clueless_Collector
Nov 8, 2024

They do wear and tear. I don’t believe some deep beveling or nice sharp angles cannot be achieved by another watchmaker who’s assigned one job just to polish. Hence I won’t buy too high end expensive Indies
but who do I know? Does the brush strokes of those super expensive Van Gogh or Leonardo’s work are from brushes and paint that are works of God that no one can reproduce? In short, unacceptable and hence I’m not touching them. Patek Philippe, Langes, Chopard LUCs are good enough for me. Watch

SP
Spangles - Dr. Tabby
Nov 8, 2024

I don't think that's fair at all. Either one should provide a recent example, or I would say that the argument doesn't have a leg to stand on in this. Now, I don't mean to be unnecessarily harsh to you, my apologies, but I've seen this exact argument on a few forums, so I think it's time to retire it (or, as I say, use a recent example). To be clear, I am not really a fan of Roger Smith. The co-axial is a bit of a failure in terms of its promise to use direct impulse (it's one direct, one indire

JO
John-E-Mac
Nov 8, 2024

Personally, I am in awe of anyone who is willing to step onto the stage and subject themselves to public scrutiny. 🧐

RI
Richard M
Nov 8, 2024

Of loving evidence of the “Hand of the Maker”! I have no problem with signs that a human being was involved, especially where magnification of this order is required. I think the beauty lies in the wonderful dial design, the history behind this extraordinary maker. No magnifying glass will change that for me.

FA
Fastwong
Nov 8, 2024

Being "handmade" doesn't make it good... or even actually handmade. Having 50 interior angles doesn't mean any of them were executed well. Innovative complications doesn't equate to well tested, performant, and reliable. In the current indy craze I think a lot of people are buying based on stories, on media, on what they hear, and what they see on the internet without actually considering whether it's any good. It sounds stupid but it's hard to know what good is. Two interviews come to mind whic

IC
Ichiran
Nov 8, 2024

He uses CNC for the cutting of components, and he doesn't make jewels, springs, and gaskets. He has openly shared such info with watch publications, social media, speeches, gatherings, and watch fairs. It's not a secret. His workshop is opened for any of us who would like to visit him at Isle of Man. You should witness the entire manufacturing process yourself. Next with regards to "quality" - all the independent artisanal watchmakers I visited in Geneva use a 10x loupe to finish their watches,

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