Patrick_y challenges the conventional wisdom of luxury consumption, urging collectors to look beyond brand prestige and scrutinize the true craftsmanship of products. His detailed analysis of leather goods, drawing parallels to horology, prompts a crucial discussion on whether we truly understand the quality we pay for or if we're swayed by marketing and reputation. This article, born from his extensive research, provides a framework for discerning genuine artisan quality from mass-produced luxury.
Let's face it. Some of us get excited simply because there's a Patek Philippe logo on a wallet. Not realizing those wallets are made by an external corporate gifts supplier who hired a contract manufacturer in Florence, Italy to make the wallets.
An emperor blindly trusts two conmen tailors to make his clothes. The tailors charge an exorbitant amount but really dress the emperor in no clothes at all. Claiming that only the "truly worthy" can see the magnificent clothes. Eventually, an innocent child blurts out the Emperor is naked. This is the story by Hans Christian Anderson that we all heard as a child - yet - many of us seem to make that mistake in adult-hood. We buy brands because we implicitly trust them, they're well marketed and reputable brands, and because others have endorsed the product (all while claiming we are immune to typical marketing). But we don't really understand quality ourselves - we place a blind trust into the system.
Over the past ten years, I have been interviewing leatherwood's craftsmen. Not entirely content with the products from the big Maisons (a la Hermes, Vuitton, etc.), which had mediocre corners, fraying edge paint, and other small imperfections. I wanted to see an artisan product. What is the Philippe Dufour equivalent in the handbag world? I believe I've found that equivalent and will be writing an article about him soon.
I searched in Europe, USA, Japan, Taiwan, Vietnam, and more. And I interviewed almost ten leathergoods craftsmen and ordered dozens of products. I also learned that many of the products sold by Montblanc, Dunhill, Vuitton, etc. are made by contract manufacturers in Spain and Italy, much like how Apple contracts Foxconn to make their iPhones.
Here's a strap comparison. One strap is from an artisan-level producer. The other is from a huge brand that actually makes this strap in-house (not contracted out). Which one is of ordinary quality? And which one is of exceptional quality?
The area where the hardware attaches to the leather strap is an area which can wear out if the strap is used for years. Thus, it should be made with a second flap as shown in the crocodile example in the photo above. This second flap can be unstitched from the rest of the strap, when it is worn out. The flap can then be replaced. And the strap would have a second life. But the lower calfskin strap would have to be cut and re-stitched. Which would effectively shorten the strap.
The calfskin example stitching looks to be machine stitched, whereas the crocodile strap is ”cous main" or stitched by hand. Again, notice the edge paint is not even on the calfskin example.
Notice the edge paint is uneven on the calfskin example. The edge paint layer is also thin, flat, and clearly shows the demarcation line. On the crocodile example; the edge paint is domed, more even, and is of a thicker layer. The artisan strap has four layers of edge paint and the leather substrate is sanded with sandpaper to create a perfect smooth dome. Four layers of slow-drying edge paint is used. This allows the edge paint to stay flexible and not crack.
The calfskin example is really ordinary quality in my eyes, as you can see more uneven edge paint in this example. Yet, millions of women chase the Hermes Kelly bag because it’s what the celebrities wear; presuming that it's of the highest quality because the brand is one of the most expensive on the market. The crocodile strap, which is obviously of higher quality, is made by an artisan in Europe; where I will write an article about in the coming weeks!
Thank you for reading!
