Metalem vs. Comblemine: A Deep Dive into Guilloché Dial Craftsmanship

Key Points from the Discussion

• Metalem is a large, highly capable dial manufacturer known for superb craftsmanship, with Breguet also standing out for its extensive in-house guilloché department that works on both dials and movement parts.
• All guilloché dials involve extensive handwork, making each piece unique and dependent on the individual craftsman, with brands often requesting traditional or innovative patterns like Czapek's 'guilloché ricochet'.
• The base material for guilloché dials varies; Breguet and Patek Philippe typically use a gold disc that is then silvered, while A.L. Breguet originally, and some contemporary independent watchmakers like JN Shapiro, use a silver disc treated with acid to create a durable white oxidized layer.
• When evaluating guilloché, key factors include the complexity and density of the patterns, noting that a more complex pattern with multiple origin points might be less dense, while simpler patterns can be executed with higher density.
• It is challenging to separate objective quality from personal aesthetic preferences when judging guilloché, as all presented examples appear to be executed to a very high standard.
• The potential use of modern technologies by one dial maker over another could influence appreciation for their work, despite both producing beautiful dials.
• The discussion prompted further inquiry into which dial makers are responsible for specific high-end brand dials, such as Parmigiani Fleurier's guilloché work, suggesting Metalem's involvement.