Amanico revisits the Montblanc Unveiled Secret, focusing on the 2024 polished steel version. His review highlights the aesthetic and technical refinements that elevate this iteration, offering a fresh perspective on a movement first seen in an 'aged steel' case. This article provides valuable insights into how subtle design choices can significantly impact a watch's appeal and perceived value.
In 2023, Montblanc issued an " aged steel " version which I reviewed at that time.
Here it is:
Montblanc released one year after, in 2024 then, a polished and steel case I totally missed, which I just recently discovered. And truth to be told, I much prefer this " classic " steel version. Indeed, I think that such a movement needs to be paired with a classic case, in steel, or gold, not with a kind of " fashioned " finish, even if it is spectacular, but I suspect you can get tired of it.
The case dimensions are the same as the former Unveiled Secret versions: 43 mm big, 14, 78 mm high, so 1 mm smaller, but 1, 28 mm thicker than the 1858 Tachymeters. The fluted bezel is in white gold, which is not a novelty, compared to the former versions.
The big and important changes here are the blued ( ! ) plates and bridges and the " windows " on both sides of the case which allow you to admire the movement. Two great details which put this watch at another level, for me.
The case back is solid, and nicely decorated, which is good as the movement is inverted so there is nothing to see on the back side, then.
A nice belated surprise, for me, this version.
Best,
Nicolas
About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Boucheron 1858
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Montblanc Ref. 1858Collection
The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph is a limited edition offering within the 1858 collection, distinguished by its complex split-second chronograph complication. This particular reference, limited to 100 pieces, features a unique burgundy dial, setting it apart from other models in the series and appealing to collectors seeking a more exclusive and visually distinct timepiece with advanced horological functions.
The watch is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter and 15.2mm in thickness. It is fitted with a fixed 18k white gold fluted bezel. The dark burgundy dial, finished with a sunray pattern, complements the case materials. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal. The timepiece is powered by the hand-wound MB 16.31 calibre, which measures 38.4 x 8.13 mm, and offers a power reserve suitable for its intricate mechanical functions.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in high-complication chronographs and Montblanc's Minerva heritage. Its limited production run and specific dial color make it a notable variant within the 1858 collection, offering a blend of historical design cues and modern watchmaking. The large dimensions reflect its pocket watch-inspired movement architecture, a characteristic often appreciated by enthusiasts of traditional horology.
Specifications
- Caliber
- MB 16.31
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 44mm
- Dial
- Burgundy
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
