Montblanc Villeret 1858 Paris Event Report
Manufacture

Montblanc Villeret 1858 Paris Event Report

By foversta · Apr 3, 2010 · 22 replies
foversta
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Foversta's report from the Montblanc event in Paris offers a rare and intimate look into the Villeret Manufacture's dedication to traditional haute horlogerie. By detailing discussions with Monique Wyssmueller and Demetrio Cabiddu, and showcasing the meticulous process of escapement assembly and balance wheel adjustment, this article provides invaluable insight into the craftsmanship behind Montblanc's high-end calibers. It serves as a testament to the brand's commitment to historical watchmaking techniques and materials.

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As promised, please find my report about the event organized last Tuesday by Montblanc at its Paris Boutique, rue de la Paix.

I was happy to be invited because I missed the Montblanc presentation at the SIHH so it was a good opportunity for me to get updated news from them and to see some of their latest models.




The object of the event was to invite a few collectors to make them discover the Haute Horlogerie collection of Montblanc, the collection Villeret 1858 around some 2010 novelties. So I will not speak about the other collections of the brand in my report.

Even if the Metamorphosis and the Exotourbillon were not present, the Montblanc brought to the attendees some surprises.

First of all, Monique Wyssmueller and Demetrio Cabiddu were present and it was a great pleasure for us to be able to discuss with them about the past and the present of the Villeret Manufacture. Demetrio Cabiddu explained us why the Manufacture is an alive symbol of Haute Horlogerie and why he is so proud of the making process of the watches. Monique Wyssmueller gave us a demonstration of how to assemble the different part of the escapement  and to adjust the balance wheel. Monique of course assembles the full calibers but she is one of the very few watchmakers in Switzerland able to use this method, without any laser involvement, to build the escapement of the watch.

Mr Cabiddu explained the main features of the Villeret Manufacture calibers:




With the device on the next pics Monique can adjust the balance wheel frequency (influenced by the length of the spiral) by comparing its rythm with the one of the enlarged balance wheel which is used as reference: having a good eye is required! When both balance wheels have the same rythm, the spiral can be cut to get the appropriate lenth.













The balance wheel:




Due to their specificities (length, Phillips terminal curve), the Villeret Manufacture produces its won spirals.

Some of the attendees were invited to try to fix the spiral and I must confess I didn't have enough guts to do it! What a difficult task!

This exercice was a good way to give us the proof of the quality demand from the Villeret Manufacture and also of the respect of the traditional art of watchmaking. It is obvious: you can do it easier, you can also use masselotes on the balance wheel to adjust it more efficiently but in that case, it wouldn't be coherent with the will of the people from the Manufacture:  to offer high end calibers with traditional layouts, features and materials. For example, each part of a caliber is made of maillechort. Brass is not used. To enhance the historical aspect of the calibers, they are all handwind with a low frequency (2,5hz) and a large balance wheel to get a very stable and consistent  behaviour.




You will notice the typical "V-shape" of the chronograph bridge (hereafter the 13.21):




The consequence of these building and hand finishing processes is, of course, a very small production. As you already know it, each model is available in editions of 1, 8 or 58 pieces according the case material used. Each caliber will be produced with a limit of 288 (twice twelve dozens). Of course, personalization is feasible.

The story of the Manufacture:




The other surprise was the quite large range of Villeret watches available including the Vintage Chronograph and the always surprising Tourbillon Mysterieux. I propose you to browse the different watches of the event with separate posts.

It is a good idea for Montblanc to organize such events. Because they need to build an image, to explain that even if they are "newcomers" (which is not the truth but it is the feeling of a lot of people), they can propose haute horlogerie watches. Let's face it:  it is not an easy task to convince a client to buy a 50K Montblanc watch but with the energy spent the last years after the acquisition of the Villeret Manufacture, I think that the strategy is on the right tracks. And the most important thing is that quality of the Villeret collection is unquestionable.

I would like to thank a lot the whole Montblanc team in Paris and Monique Wyssmueller and Demetrio Cabiddu for the warm welcome and the watchmaking demonstration. We all appreciated the organization of this event.




Fr.Xavier

This message has been edited by foversta on 2010-04-03 14:29:39

About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

Specifications

Caliber
Boucheron 1858
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
FO
foversta
Apr 3, 2010
Part 1: Chronographe Authentique Email Grand Feu

Let's start the presentation with the Chronographe Email Grand Feu. This chronograph uses the caliber 13.21 which the monopusher version of the 13.20. Of course, the frequency is low (2,5hz) with a quite large balance wheel (11,12mm). The power reserve is 60 hours. Caliber diameter (29,5mm) is ok for a case diameter of 41mm. Of course, the caliber finishings are excellent in the pure tradition of the Villeret Manufacture. The case features an hinged cuvette with the signature of Demettrio Cabidd

FO
foversta
Apr 3, 2010
Part 2: Grand Chronographe Régulateur

This Grand Chronographe Régulateur was presented in 2009. This is a quite original timepiece mixing different complications in an usual dial layout. It is a "grand" chronograph because the case diameter is 47mm and its thickness 16,4mm. So it is not a suitable watch for all wrists! Due to its weight, the watch has to be well adjusted on the wrist. This is an interesting watch thanks to this combo of complications: Aa 12 o'clock you find the hour circle with the main hour hand and the second

FO
foversta
Apr 3, 2010
Part 3: Grande Seconde au centre Retour-à-zéro

The Grande Seconde au centre with Retour-à-zéro (zero reset) seems to be a simple watch but it is not. This big watch (47mm) uses superb caliber 16.18 which large diameter (38,4mm) is perfect in this context. The balance wheel is also impressive with its 14,5mm diameter. The large size of the watch gives the opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the guilloché of the dial. But of course, the pleasure with this watch is to reset the Grande Seconde to set the time with accuracy or to measure some

DR
Dr No
Apr 5, 2010
Hi, FX - did you find an appreciable difference aesthetically . . .

. . . on the wrist between the white and black dial versions? Thanks, Art

FO
foversta
Apr 3, 2010
Part 4: Chronographe Vintage

The Chronographe Vintage is a 2010 novelty and maybe my fav Montblanc watch. Smaller than the Grand Chronographe (43,5mm), it features a beautiful enamel dial with two scales: the telemeter scale on the periphery and the tachymeter scale, like a snail's shell on the center. Caliber used is the 16.29 with its 55 hours of power reserve, its low frequency and its large balance wheel. But here, there is no hinged cuvette, it is a classic case. It explains why the watch seems to be more slender than

AM
amanico
Apr 4, 2010
I share with you an interest for this Chronograph, FX.

The WG Case / Black dial is really awesome. Superb movement, and I'm a sucker for the Monopusher Chronos! Will have to pay a visit and see it in the flesh, when I can! What a pity I couldn't attend, but as said by Mike..Paris is a Feast, and I'm sure I will soon have the opportunity to do it. Thanks for this superb report, FX. Best, Nicolas

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