My First Vintage Rolex: The Red Submariner Ref. 1680 Story
Vintage

My First Vintage Rolex: The Red Submariner Ref. 1680 Story

By Mr.Gatsby · May 9, 2020 · 18 replies
Mr.Gatsby
WPS member · Rolex forum
18 replies3656 views4 photos
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Mr.Gatsby shares a deeply personal account of his journey into vintage Rolex collecting, highlighting the emotional connections forged through the hunt for iconic references. His narrative underscores how a watch transcends its mechanical form to become a repository of memories and friendships. This piece offers a valuable perspective on the allure of vintage Rolex and the stories that make each acquisition unique.

It's been a nostalgic Saturday and I have been reminiscing a bit today about the past and how I got to where I am with the watches. Got to say it’s been an incredible journey and I’ve enjoyed every bit of it. The failed bids, the missed opportunities, the hunts, the buying, the grails, etc.  

In 2009/10 I was beginning to explore other watches that were not part of the big watch trend (Panerai, AP etc) and Rolex kept popping up due to its popularity in Asia. Of course, due to my earlier fixation with Pre-V and my awe for vintage Panerai, that sort of led me to look at vintage Rolex. Back in 2009, I actually found vintage Rolex to be quite old fashioned looking and rather small. But fast forward to today, I can’t seem to fathom why I would even think that way when vintage Rolex today is to me the perfectly sized watch for me. Though vintage Rolex wasn't exactly my cup of tea, I knew back then that there was something timeless and classic about its design.  In 2010 as i was in midst of getting myself a proper job, I decided I wanted something that could fit comfortably under the cuff. And that was why I picked a vintage Rolex (and subsequently a modern GV Milgauss). 

I eventually chose the ref. 1680 red Submariner with mark IV dial. The watch came with 90% box and papers (only missing an anchor and 1-2 non essentials). Back then, I wanted to choose a dive watch that was classic, iconic and had important significance to Rolex history. To me, the sub came before the SD so that to me had historical significance. When one thinks of Rolex, the sub naturally comes to mind over the sea dweller therefore I deemed it to be a classic and picked the sub over the SD. Next, as money was to an extent a constraint, my "limits" were somewhere within the 60s-70s era, which I considered to be interesting and still attainable. Eventually I went with the red sub, as the red text was simply just iconic and hard to ignore. In the language of vintage Rolex, people speak mostly about the nuances. So amongst the mark I to VI dials, the IV was made available (for less versus the I to III) so I picked it. Eventually, in the next 2 years or so, I picked up another full b&p ref. 1675 with matt dial as the GMT ref. 1675 to me was another extremely iconic watch, with the bi-color bezel insert and it’s significance to the aviation industry.

Nevertheless, back to the red sub, I became emotionally attached to it over the years as I soon became friends with another vintage Rolex nutcase. He eventually became one of my best friends, and I became godfather to his son subsequently. When we first got acquianted, he too, happened to own the exact same ref. 1680 red sub mark IV dial circa 1971 as I would. To this day, we continue to own this reference. Over the following years I would go on to buy more vintage Rolexs, which my best friend always had a hand in it. Another piece of provenance that is special to me is the dealer who sold it to me. Let’s just say, I got lucky, and whatever controversy that happened after only just made it more interesting for me. I always think that the stories that come with our watches carry a lot of meaning with it. Otherwise, a watch in its intrinsic form is merely a culmination of labor in the forms of technology, engineering and design. 

A few shots of my Mulholland red Sub: 







So what’s your first vintage Rolex and what is your story?

HAGWE
G




About the Rolex GMT Ref. 1675

The GMT-Master reference 1675 is a significant model in the brand's history, representing an evolution from earlier GMT-Master references. It was produced for an extended period, allowing for numerous dial, bezel, and hand variations throughout its production run. This reference is notable for its introduction of crown guards, enhancing the watch's robustness and contributing to its distinct profile. It solidified the GMT-Master's design language, which would influence subsequent generations.

This reference features a 40mm case, available in stainless steel, yellow gold, or a two-tone combination of steel and yellow gold. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal and offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The bidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, displays a 24-hour scale.

For collectors, the 1675 is highly sought after due to its long production period and the resulting variety of configurations, including different dial types (gilt, matte), hand styles, and bezel colors (Pepsi, all-red, all-black). Its four-digit reference number and acrylic crystal are key characteristics that define it as a vintage Rolex. The reference appeals to those interested in the historical development of the GMT-Master line and the nuances of vintage watch collecting.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal. 1575
Case
Yellow Gold
Diameter
40mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Acrylic

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
May 9, 2020

Why? Because of that... Thomas Magnum wore his father's 1675. I was 14 years old when I saw this watch. I promised to myself that I will get one, one day. And I kept my word.... ... Beyond my expectations! Best, my friend. Nicolas

MR
Mr.Gatsby
May 9, 2020

Thank you for sharing. You have a wonderful collection but more importantly your passion burns forth. And it’s great to share this hobby with like minded individuals like yourself

ME
Mech
May 9, 2020

I have the 1665 and 1675 in full sets which has been my criteria for acquiring vintage Rolexes over the years. There are just too many fakes and Frankensteins out there and even if I was exploring a set it poses some challenges. I took my time, did my research, learned from the experts and of coz paid their premiums. Like most I luv the classic subs esp the Red subs but I also luv the SD. So when I had the chance to have the best in both worlds, a SD

MR
Mr.Gatsby
May 9, 2020

I just never had the opportunity to own one yet

ME
Mech
May 10, 2020

though I like solid gold in times of crisis, my organic Gold is still good LoL HAGWE from my SD+Sub in one watch LoL

ME
Mech
May 10, 2020

Crazy prices and I don’t blame them. First SD and double red for indicating SD Sub. And of coz tritium! They don’t make doubles anymore.

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