Emmanuel (quattro) delves into the fascinating history of Omega's 'Louis Brandt' Perpetual Calendars, a collection dedicated to the brand's founder. This post builds upon a previous discussion of a prototype, offering a comprehensive look at the second generation of these significant timepieces. His detailed presentation, complete with various dial and case configurations, provides invaluable insight into a lesser-known chapter of Omega's complicated watchmaking heritage.
The
Perpetual Calendar Prototype to which I dedicated
a thread yesterday made me want to
learn more about the “
Louis Brandt”
Perpetual Calendars.
Louis Brandt (1825-1879) was the founder in 1848 of what became Omega in 1894 under the direction of his sons.
credit: wiki.grail-watch
In 1984, Omega launched a collection dedicated to its founder: the Louis Brandt collection.
This collection was followed by a second generation of timepieces between 1991 and 1997.
It is with the timepieces of this second generation that I propose to begin our exploration of the perpetual calendars in the collection.
I. LOUIS BRANDT II DE LUXE - SECOND GENERATION PERPETUAL CALENDARS (1991 - 1997)
Case: 34 x 11 mm
Caliber 1118
A/ REF. BA 175.0300 1/ BARLEY GRAIN STAMPED DIAL & “LOUIS BRANDT” SIGNATURE AT 6 O'CLOCK 
credit: Stories of Time (1-7), Sam Hewitt on old-omegas.com (8-9) & californiaJewelry&Coin (10-11)
2/ BARLEY GRAIN STAMPED DIAL & “OMEGA” ONLY AT 6 O'CLOCK
credit: uhren-miquel.com
3/ SMOOTH DIAL & APPLIED ROMAN NUMERALS & MARKERS
First regular example
Second example gifted to someone by racing driver Michael Schumacher (born in 1969): “Thank you for your support, Michael” engraved on the caseback
credit: Roy & Sacha Davidoff (1-4) & Christie’s (5-7)
Probably the exact
same reference despite “175.0302” instead of “175.0300”, but this is how the watch is
referenced on
Omega's website.
credit: Omega
C/ OPENWORK SKELETON VARIANTS
Same dimensions
Caliber 1117
1/ REF. 5349.80.83
2/ REF. 5349.80.00
3/ GEM-SET BEZEL MODEL “Louis Brandt, Skeletonized Quantième Perpétuel QS 59”
credit: Ponti (1-5), Breguetcamera (6-8), omegaforums (9) & Antiquorum (10)
II. LOUIS BRANDT I - FIRST GENERATION PERPETUAL CALENDARS (
circa 1984)
Here is how the
Louis Brandt collection was
presented by
Marco Richon in his book
Omega , Biel 2007, p. 494:
“Launched during the World Congress of Omega Agents held at Inter-laken (May 20-24, 1984), this high standing collection was named "Louis Brandt" to equally honour the company founder and Omega's tradition of fine craftsmanship.
Inspired by Fernando Fontana, director of the Italian case manufacturer Lascor in Sesto Calende, the series consists exclusively of handmade complicated mechanical watches.
The scratch-proof sapphire glass back of the watertight cases lets the viewer admire the precious engraved movement and the reflections of light on the polished surfaces.
Two characteristics are shared by the entire collection: the gold winding crown with seven brilliant cut diamonds and the gold buckle of the leather bands with its diamond-adorned prong.”
Case: 34 x 11 mm
Caliber 716
A/ BA 156.769 BZ 01 (dedicated page on
Omega's website)
credit: Watches of Knightsbridge (1-6) & Antiquorum (7-8)
B/ GEM-SET BEZEL - REF. UNKNOWN
credit: Auktionen Dr. Crott
3/ BRACELET MODELS - REF. UNKNOWN
credit: Cambi (1), Bonhams (2), Antiquorum (3) & Christie’s (4-6)
I personally like the 2nd gen examples with a solid barley grain dial very much. And I prefer the variant with “Omega” only at 6 o'clock.
I find the case and lugs, in particular, very nicely designed.
What about you?
Do these watches appeal to you?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
Review of ref. 175.0300 by Tim Mosso
About the Horological Meandering Mare Nostrum Ref. 716
The Mare Nostrum reference 716 is a notable chronograph within the Horological Meandering collection, distinguished by its specific design elements and technical execution. It represents a particular period in the brand's output, offering a blend of traditional watchmaking techniques with a focus on functionality. This reference is recognized for its robust construction and the integration of a chronograph complication, catering to collectors who appreciate mechanical complexity and a purposeful aesthetic. It stands as an example of the brand's commitment to producing instruments with a clear horological identity.
This particular reference features a case crafted from stainless steel, housing a manual-winding mechanical movement. The case diameter measures 44mm, providing a substantial presence on the wrist. The movement is known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of 55 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, ensuring durability and clear legibility. The construction emphasizes a balance between form and function, characteristic of the brand's approach to tool watches.
For collectors, the Mare Nostrum 716 appeals to those interested in chronographs with a distinct historical lineage and a focus on mechanical integrity. Its design and specifications position it as a significant piece within the broader landscape of collectible timepieces. The combination of its movement, case dimensions, and overall presentation makes it a subject of interest for enthusiasts who value the technical aspects and the heritage of Horological Meandering's chronograph offerings.
Specifications
- Caliber
- OP XXI
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 44mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 30 meters
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Panerai Luminor Marina Ref. PAM716
The Panerai Mare Nostrum PAM716 is a special edition that reinterprets the brand's first chronograph, a model with a storied but unproduced past from 1943. This reference is notable for its more compact case size compared to some other Panerai chronographs, offering a distinct profile within the Luminor and Radiomir families. It represents a direct homage to an early design concept, bringing a historical prototype into contemporary production for collectors. The PAM716 is part of a limited series, emphasizing its exclusivity and direct link to Panerai's design archives. It stands out as a piece that bridges historical inspiration with modern manufacturing.
The watch features a 42 mm case crafted from stainless steel, providing a robust yet refined presence on the wrist. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch resistance. Inside, the watch is powered by a manual-wind mechanical movement, offering a power reserve of 55 hours. The solid case back ensures water resistance to 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed bezel frames a black dial, which is characteristic of Panerai's utilitarian design ethos, ensuring legibility and a consistent aesthetic.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Panerai's historical prototypes and those seeking a chronograph with a strong vintage aesthetic. Its limited production run enhances its desirability among enthusiasts. The PAM716 offers a different dimension to the Panerai collection, moving away from the more common dive watch designs to explore the brand's early forays into chronography. It is a piece that resonates with those who appreciate the narrative behind a watch and its connection to a specific period in the brand's development.
Specifications
- Caliber
- P.9010
- Case
- Carbotech
- Diameter
- 44 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire