Vintage
DrStrong's comprehensive overview of the Omega Seamaster 300's evolution from 1957 to 1970 provides a crucial historical context for collectors. His detailed comparison of three generations, including the rare F.A.P. military engraving, highlights the significant design and technical advancements that shaped this iconic diver's watch. This post serves as an invaluable reference for understanding the Seamaster 300's distinct journey compared to its contemporaries.
The Seamaster 300 is not only a legend among the Omega models, it is also an icon for all the diver’s watches collectors. It was born in 1957, with all the characteristics of a toolwatch: a large stainless steel case with a screw on back, a very thick crystal, a rotating graduated bezel, a black dial with numbers and luminous indexes and very legible hands. It was first issued under reference 2913 as waterproof to 200 meters, like the Rolex Submariner of the same period.
In 1965, a new version of the Seamaster 300 was launched, with the reference 165.024: it was fitted with a new movement (cal. 565, with or without date), a wider bezel and a larger case identical to the new version of the Speedmaster.
In 1970, the development of professional Scuba diving watch lead Omega to upgraded to watch and launch the Seamaster 600 under the reference 166.077, with a monocoque case of a revolutionary shape, a monolithic mineral crystal and a rotating bezel with red safety pusher. The dark blue dial and oversize orange hand gave the watch a very unique look. The ultimate evolution of the Seamaster will be the Seamaster 1000, produced in very few examples.
Here are my three generations of Seamasters side by side. The evolution of the size is obvious, as well as the common characteristics (like the funny hands…).
The side view emphasizes the differences in case thickness and structure:
It is worthwhile to notice that if we aligned versions of the Rolex Submariner and Sea Dweller ranging from 1962 to 1977, there would be much less differences than for the Omega Seamaster. Indeed, the design of the Rolex Submariner and Sea Dweller has remained quite the same over the years, whereas the evolution has been much more spectacular for the Omega Seamaster.
The caseback engraving is another characteristic of the Seamaster (a common characteristics of all Omega sportswtaches, like the Speedmaster and Railmaster). The earlier model has a flat back, my example having the additional military F.A.P engraving:
The 165.024 has a more rounded caseback, but with the same Seahorse logo engraving and text:
Here are some details about my watches, provided by the Omega Museum archives in Bienna:
The early Seamaster is a reference 14755 that was delivered in 1963 to the Fuerza Aerea del Peru.
My later model is a reference 165.024 and was sold in 1968 to China, which is probably very rare.
I have already told the story of my one owner Seamaster 600 in details here. An amazing watch with a unique history and full diving records:
The movement was manufactured in 1972 and the watch was sold in Spain in 1977.
Let’s finish this fifteen years time line with some Seamaster advertisings through the years, again the evolutions is quite remarkable:
The Omega CK 2913 is a significant early example from the brand's professional series, distinguished by its robust construction and focus on specific functional requirements. It represents a foundational piece in a lineage of watches designed for demanding environments, emphasizing legibility and durability. This reference is part of a trio of professional tool watches introduced concurrently, each tailored for different specialized applications, and it stands out for its particular design elements that cater to its intended purpose.
This reference typically features a stainless steel case, designed for resilience. It houses a manual-winding mechanical movement, known for its reliability and precision. The watch is fitted with a durable crystal, contributing to its overall robustness. The case dimensions were chosen to provide a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining wearability, reflecting the practical considerations of its era.
For collectors, the CK 2913 is a highly sought-after reference due to its historical importance within Omega's catalog of purpose-built timepieces. It appeals to those interested in the development of specialized watches and the evolution of design principles focused on utility. Variations within this reference, particularly concerning dial and hand configurations, are points of interest for enthusiasts, highlighting the subtle distinctions that define its different iterations.
These Omega Subs are really very interesting. This line of watces has given birth to strong icons. From the magnificient and very sensual CK 2913 to the Ploprof Beast. Maybe it is time for me to hunt a Ploprof... Thanks for this very interesting post, Jeff. Your CK 14755 PAF is killing me, each time I see it. Best, Nicolas
Big triangle is one of my dreams. Thanks Dr. for showing those gorgeous SM from the past. Cheers, Nilo
..The domed crystal on your 165.024 looks amazing in those shots!! Very interesting post. With regard to the sword hands on the 165.024, I see in some advertising, that there was also a model with straight hands. Do you know if there is any significance? I always thought the sword hands were the reserve for Military ordered pieces. And of course, as a member of the POG, I have to say that the ploprof is looking very masterful beside the to two SM300's!! Cheers Tony
...were used until circa 1965 and then replaced by the sword hands.
... "variation," the 166.0324, for those who haven't seen it. This watch has a cal 565 movement (i.e., vintage guts) but NOS case, dial, hands, etc. Some folks dislike its existence, while others (such as I) am grateful for it. Omega's vintage website said this about the 166.0324: This reference is considered as an after sales item since 1999-2000 and doesn’t consequently belong to our International Collection. It is related to a modern watchhead, crown, dial, hands and case back for the Seamast
...we definitely have to set up a GTG of the Ploprof Owner Group someday ;-)
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