Rolex & Panerai California Dials: A Collector's Quest
Collection

Rolex & Panerai California Dials: A Collector's Quest

By Subexplorer · Jan 8, 2019 · 46 replies
Subexplorer
WPS member · Officine Panerai forum
46 replies11947 views21 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 ✉ 🔗

Subexplorer's journey into collecting Rolex and Panerai California dial watches offers a fascinating look at a distinctive aesthetic. His personal quest highlights the allure of these unique dials, tracing their history from Rolex's 'Error Proof Radium dials' to modern Panerai interpretations. This article explores the evolution and enduring appeal of the California dial, a design that continues to captivate collectors.

46 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →
My watch collector career started around 2008 when my family presented me with a big thick book devoted to the history of Rolex for my birthday.
I already was a big fan of the brand, but knew little about its history and much less about those early little Oyster Perpetuals known among the collectors as "bubblebacks"

I was fascinated with said book and with the discovery of so many models I had never seen before.

When I finished reading the book, I felt I badly needed to own a bubbleback Rolex and specially one with a so called "California" dial.
I had never dreamed with being a watch collector and it was not easy to locate a bubbleback but was able to find a couple with wich I started my colection. Then in 2009 I found my first California dial: a reference 3372 which I bought in spite of having a retouched but original dial.

Three years later, in 2012 I got another bubbleback with a nice Cali dial, with thick luminous indexes and a "Mercedes" hour hand!

Rolex patented their "Error Proof Radium dials" on June 15, 1942 and it is known that they supplied Panerai with watches sporting this type of dials shortly afterwards. That was the name Rolex gave to these fantastic dials which have Roman numerals in the uper part of dial, and arabic numbers in the lower. It is said that the "California" name comes form a guy located in California, USA who specialized in restoring these dials some decades ago.

As you know not only Rolex occupies part of my horological heart, but also Panerai. It is easy to understand that viewing pictures of those old Panerais with these fantastic dials I inmediatelly fell in love with this model and started my search for my own modern Panerai with Cali dial as to get an original was absolutely out of my reach.

After a long time searching in my local hunting grounds for a Cali Panerai, in September 2014 I had the opportunity of buying a brand new Pam 424 with date.
I was very excited to get it after a so long hunt. But truth is that I couldn´t wear my new watch and enjoy it as I expected:  Each time I strapped it to my wrist I became dissapointed when viewing the date window on the dial.

I could stand the logo at "6" but not the date on this otherwise beautiful dial. So my 424 date went almost unworn to the bank safe. Then in 2017 I was offered a brand new example of the Pam 424 sans date.
It seems that Panerai had recognized their mistake and discontinued the original 424 date for a non date dial under the same reference: Pam 424.

As my own 424 date was almost NOS I could arrange to exchange it with a little difference in cash and at last I was happy to own a Panerai with a California dial... and NO date on it!!

But my long journey didn´t end here.

Last year I recevied a call from one local seller offering me an almost brand new Panerai 249 with box and papers. That was one of the 1936 watches made in 2006 in impecable condition! I couldn´t resist to take it home!!

I feel that some other Cali dial will arrive to my collection in the future. I find these dials simply fascinating!!
Thanks a lot for reading and viewing!!

Cheers! Abel.





Original Ref 3546 Panerai (Archivio Storico Panerai)






Original Patent for the "Error Proof Radium Dial" Rolex, June 15, 1942






Oyster Perpetual Rolex Bubbleback ref 3372 from circa 1946










My second Cali dial Bubbleback. Reference unknown. Circa 1945/6










My present California Team!




Pam 424 with date




Pam 424 Date




Pam 424 Date








My new Pam 424 NO DATE!!




My new Pam 424 No Date!








Last addition to the Cali stable: Panerai 249 series of 2006 of 1936 examples




Panerai 249




Pam 249




Pam 249




About the Panerai PAM00249 - Radiomir 1936 SE Ref. PAM249

The PAM00249 represents Panerai's Radiomir 1936 SE series, a special edition reference produced from 2007 to 2012. This 47mm stainless steel model features the manual-winding P.3000 caliber and maintains the fundamental characteristics of the Radiomir collection within a limited production timeframe.

The watch houses a black dial within a 47mm stainless steel case topped with sapphire crystal and a smooth bezel configuration. The manual-winding P.3000 movement provides a 72-hour power reserve. Water resistance reaches 100 meters, and the watch is fitted with a leather strap. The substantial case size aligns with Panerai's sizing approach during this production period.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on Panerai's mid-2000s special edition offerings and those seeking manual-winding complications within the Radiomir lineup. The five-year production window from 2007 to 2012 positions the PAM249 as a time-specific variant that bridges Panerai's modern manufacturing era with traditional hand-wound movement architecture.

Specifications

Case
steel case
Diameter
47mm
Dial
black dial

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
CP
Cpt Scarlet
Jan 8, 2019
Dear Abel...

The 249 is a superb Panerai. I also remember trying to track one down when they were announced as a “Special Edition”. The crazy days of Panerai mania ! I still have it and always will.

SU
Subexplorer
Jan 8, 2019
Thank you my dear Captain!! Yes, I know you love this model and you have good reasons to. To find these special editions of the past is almost impossible down here...

... and I feel very fortunate to find mine. I had never dreamed about finding one in my usual hunting grounds! O started my love with Panerai with my first one: a Pam 111 which I bought in an AD in Paris in 2006. I knew very little about the brand in those years, except that I liked them very much and wished to own one. As you know many more Pams came later to my collection. The California dial is among my favorites, and I feel the 249 is the one to keep. Though I find the 424 very charming spec

CP
Cpt Scarlet
Jan 8, 2019
I found your post..

Very interesting and it reminded me of when I first became interested in Panerai. I was in Cairo and a single Panerai was on display in a small cabinet. It wasn’t even in a prominent position. I asked about the watch but no one had any idea about it. That was 14 years ago.

SU
Subexplorer
Jan 9, 2019
Thank you for your comments dear Captain! Intresting story of your first contact with the brand. 14 years ago makes about the same time or a year before my first purchase.,,

,,, and it is amazing to observe how the brand has grown in all those years. As a matter of fact in those times I was able to have in my memory almost all the model references of their catalog. In the last three or four years so many models have been launched that I lost track of the models, specially those with four digits numbers!! Lol!

CP
Cpt Scarlet
Jan 9, 2019
Hello Abel..,

Who would have thought that the time would pass so quickly I recently looked at the Boutique Blue Editions. A California Blue would have been exciting but sadly it was not to be. Happy hunting !

SU
Subexplorer
Jan 9, 2019
Hello dear friend! Yes, time pass so fast for my taste!!. I´d love if time would pass a bit slower... And since I was blessed with grandchildren time seemed to acelerate its path!! Lol!...

... Regarding Panerai Cali dials: I am not aware a Cali dial is offered within the blue dial series. But I feel that in next SIHH we could have some new Cali, perhaps in their Due line or perhaps the blue dial line. Just a hunch of mine as I have no formal connections with the brand! These could be exciting news for sure! Cheers! Abel.

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Officine Panerai forum with 46 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →