Panerai Mare Nostrum 2017 PAM00716 Review

There are two ways to consider a new watch from Panerai when it is inspired by a mythical reference. The first one, which avoids the pitfalls, is to describe it as it is and to forget the historical context. The second one is to address the sore topic: the reaction of the collectors,  owners of the original watch. And with the Mare Nostrum, this second way, which is more dangerous, is difficult to avoid because the 2017 version is extremely close (or shall I call it a clone?) to the 1993 Mare Nostrum  which was the first watch inspired by the first Panerai chronograph, dating from 1943.

We have to put ourselves in the place of these collectors, the owners of the 1993 watch who now find themselves in front of the extra 1,000 pieces of the new edition and if I were them, I don't know how I would react. Because, if I take the problem from every angle, I consider the 1993 watch not as a re-release as such but rather as an original watch. Indeed, if it was inspired by the famous 1943 prototype that was found (and which previously was not put into production), it nevertheless differed significantly with only its 42mm diameter which was much more wearable vs the 52mm of the prototype. It emerged from  this watch a lot of style, refinement, defining behind an apparent simplicity (not to say a total unexpected sobriety in the context of a chronograph) a very special Italian charm. And obviously, I find again this  charm with the  reference PAM00716 aka the Mare Nostrum 2017.



So, since I'm not a Panerai collector, I have the opportunity  to forget the context and enjoy the simple pleasure of rediscovering a watch that I find aesthetically successful. I even have to admit that this Mare Nostrum is for me one of the finest Panerai over the recent years and has the strong merit to fit any wrist. Its 42mm diameter may seem large, but the perceived size is very reasonable because the thickness of the bezel significantly reduces the dial opening. The bezel is also one of the recognizable elements of the Mare Nostrum with its sleek tachymeter scale that beautifully decorates the watch (the Mare Nostrum Slytech going even further by removing  this tachymeter scale).




The dial, which uses hands, numerals and indexes coated by a luminescent beige material (to create a "patina" rendering) is the perfect image of the watch style: only the strictly necessary information is present and it defines  a very nice harmony. The most important element is the central circular time minutes or chronograph seconds scale which links together the sub-dials. This scale summarizes by itself the miracle of the Mare Nostrum: it is reduced to its simplest expression, but it contributes to the aesthetic success of the dial. The worst (or the funniest) point is that it is not totally usable: the scale is interrupted by the sub-dials, making it therefore unsuitable for measuring the chronograph time. But you know what? I don't care. The watch is nice and the fact that it can't be considered as a genuine measuring instrument doesn't bother me. Other references from the Panerai catalogue offer perfectly usable chronographs and  the Mare Nostrum should be seen more as a ceremonial watch, elegant and stylish, confirmed by the modest waterproofness of 50 meters.



I like for example the contrast between the brushed finish of the steel case and the polished rendering of the pushers and crown. The latter has an original shape in the context of Panerai making easier the manual winding of the movement. The caliber OP XXXIII that powers the watch is actually an handwind one and it is the same movement than the Mare Nostrum one in 1993. It is hidden by a solid caseback what is an excellent point. First, the solid caseback is more in line with the spirit of the watch and then the movement doesn't offer a stunning show. It consists of an ETA 2801-2 base (a 2824-2 without the self-winding mechanism)  that powers the Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module. Its frequency is 4hz and the power reserve is 42 hours. Good news: this movement is  certificated by COSC. So while it is not prestigious, and the pushers are relatively stiff to operate (it's clearly not a Lange chronograph ...), at least the basic caliber is widespread and will be easily repairable on a long term basis.




The price of the watch is 9,900 euros with taxes in France which may seem excessive for a  rather modest horological content. But once on the wrist, the Mare Nostrum makes me forget this feeling. So no matter if the basic movement is the ETA 2801-2. No matter if the central scale is not complete. No matter if it is a simple chronograph. The watch is beautiful and captivating. The rendering of the blue dial constantly changes, from deep blue close to black to light blue when the sun illuminates it directly. Finally, the case with perfectly integrated lugs and the navy blue alligator strap complete the aesthetic success of the Mare Nostrum. Panerai reminds us through this watch that what counts is not necessarily the "greatness of the calibers", being in-house or exclusive. If the watch is beautiful, if the movement that animates it is consistent with its spirit and "makes the job", then there is no reason not to succumb to its strengths and charm. After all, with Panerai, I look for more a design and style content that a watchmaking feat. And the Mare Nostrum fully meets  my expectations from this point of view.



Thanks a lot to Panerai France.

Pros:
+ an aesthetic success
+ the comfort on the wrist
+ a Panerai watch with the strong identity that contrasts with the other models of the catalogue
+ the COSC certification

Cons:
- a clone of the 1993 watch making the decision to release it in 2017 difficult to explain to collectors
- the basic movement is modest for the price tag