Panerai PAM449 & IWC Portugieser 75th Anniversary

Merry Christmas Purists! I was on night shift not long ago, reading through Hodinkee as I often do and I rediscovered one of my favourite columns, 'The Two Watch Collection'. This column is particular important to me at the moment for two reasons: One is that I do not want to desire too many watches (because of limited means) and the second is that I am loving two of my watches and finding that others that I own, and do not own, don't quite measure up. This is both a blessing and a curse. A blessing because the two watches I love really do mean a lot to me and represent what I love about horology, within my current scope of attainability. A curse because this is a source of of anxiety, I find myself fretting about 'what next'. What watch could I possibly add that will compliment these two fantastic watches? However illogical this may be, I'm sure it's something my Purist brethren can not only relate to, but may be experiencing at this very moment.

An interesting thing about my current watch passions are that they're both wrist watches with pocket watch size movements. When I started my watch journey I was very young. However, it got serious when I actually became capable of buying a luxury watch. At the time I liked larger watches because of fashion, however I purchased a Rolex Explorer 214270 and I was concerned that it was to small. Funnily enough, as I immersed myself more in The hobby I found I preferred smaller watches and lusted after the proportions of the 1016 and the 5 digit serial subs and GMTs. Now my tastes have matured and I have found what I think is my true watch passion. Wrist watches with pocket watch movements!

There is so much more watch to love, more to look at and in my opinion more to be fascinated in. Not only that, there is a necessity to the size, if you want that (larger) movement then the watch has to be big!

The two that I have are the Panerai PAM449 and the IWC Portugieser Hand Wound 75th anniversary edition. I think that on their own these a great watches, but as a pair they become more than the sum of their parts, in a similar way that Ben Clymer said the A Lange and Sohne1815 Chronograph and the Patek Philippe 3970 Perpetual Calendar do.





We will start the discussion of these two watches in the order I purchased them. The IWC 75th Anniversary Portugieser in steel was the first. When this watch was released it was to me everything I wanted from IWC that I didn't even realise they could deliver. I knew little of the history of the Portugueiser and I immediately immersed myself in it. I quickly came to appreciate the rarity and the importance (in context) of a printed dial Portugieser. This atypical configuration also happens to be what I prefer. Applied markers look great, but I like more austere watches. One year later, I came across one on a casual visit to The Hourglass in Sydney and I jumped right on it, I made sacrifices and I managed to make it happen. I never thought I'd get an opportunity to get this watch so when I saw it I didn't let it go. What's so fantastic about this watch is the way the dial grabs me. I often find that when I read the time I get it wrong, because I'm distracted by the beauty of the dial. I end up just staring at it and enjoying every detail and not paying attention to the information that is displayed. I have found myself correcting a time I have written down at work because of I'm busy contemplating the dial!





To contrast this I have the PAM449. The dial of this watch is a polar opposite. I can scarcely imagine a functional watch dial more sparse. To me at least, this is as practically minimal as a watch dial can be. When I'm working, I need to know exactly how many minutes passed the hour it is, but I find that on my own time this is almost irrelevant in a wrist watch. If I'm timing something, I will use my iPhone. Other than that, I only need to know the time in approximately 5 minute intervals. Meeting people, catching a train, managing my time for household chores. In fact, I find measuring time with the dial of my Panerai Radiomir relaxing. I would urge any watch enthusiast to explore this idea.




Dials aside, the most important parts of these watches to me are the movements. Pocket watch size movements fascinate and excite me. Standard wristwatch size movements don't have the scale I take so much pleasure in. The contrast between these two movements could not be more perfect. The p.3000 calibre has two barrels and a large balance wheel with a more traditional 3Hz rate, with an austere finish that many detractors don't like about Paneria. I think this is one of the brand's strong points, because the finish (however basic it may be) is executed perfectly. I find it beautiful. On the other hand, the IWC 8000 series hand wound calibre has a single large barrel (with a whopping 8 day power reserve) and a small balance wheel beating at a more modern 4Hz. The finish is also more elaborate, but like the Panerai, executed properly. I don't think much more could be asked for at this price point. While both the movements are very modern, they reflect different aspects of the tradition of Swiss watch making. They also represent the logical progression of the pocket watch movement into wrist watch cases. I think they both bring pocket watch size movements into the 21st century while still showcasing different styles and methods of watchmaking.

This pair of watches mean a lot to me, and I find myself wanting to wear them more than I do (or possibly could in a week). Anything that I add to my collection will have to compete fiercely against these two. I recently bought a Mk XII and I feel that it won't last that long. I have come to crave a pocket watch for the wrist, and unless I'm wearing my Seiko SRP777 when it is necessary, I want to wear a watch with some size, mechanical interest and pocket watch roots. I wonder if it will be possible to add something to compliment these two watches that provide such a fantastic contrast. I have my cross hairs on a Big Pilot in 2017, I hope that the addition of an Automatic pocket watch size movement will provide just that little bit of variety on the theme that I feel I need for. Only time will tell!