Patek Philippe Ref. 1416: Vintage World Time Guide
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe Ref. 1416: Vintage World Time Guide

By quattro · Oct 20, 2025 · 18 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, delves into the rarely seen Patek Philippe ref. 1416 HU, a World Time model that often remains in the shadow of its more prevalent sibling, the ref. 1415 HU. His meticulous research uncovers the subtle yet significant distinctions that set the 1416 apart, making this article an essential read for collectors seeking to understand one of Patek Philippe's most elusive references. Emmanuel's work highlights the importance of detailed horological scholarship in appreciating vintage Patek Philippe World Time watches.

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Patek Philippe's World Time ref. 1415 HU is fairly well known and having been able to try one on last June in Paris was a wonderful experience for me (cf. A pure dream of a watch).

But its sibling, ref. 1416 HU, is far less known.

It differs from ref. 1415 HU by two distinct elements:

  • It was produced in only 3 examples in 1939, whereas ref. 1415 was produced in about 115 examples from 1939 to 1954.
  • It has "claw-from" or "bean-shaped" lugs with straight sides, whereas ref. 1415 has rounded teardrop lugs.
Here are the three existing examples.

A/ REF. 1416 HU (caliber 12-120 HU)

1/ Movement no. 176122, Case no. 618819

31 mm yellow gold case, trident-style hour hand and 29 world cities on bezel

Sold by Sotheby's in 2015




















credit: Sotheby’s (1), @goldberger (2-3), @onbehalf (4), @blackbough (5) & Davide Parmegiani 


Interestingly, this first example of ref. 1416 HU was made for Philip Knight Wrigley, the famous American chewing gum manufacturer




credit: @goldberger


And this particular example, easily recognisable with its trident hour hand and flat lugs, was featured on an advertisement for the US market, claiming that "this wrist watch is for the man whose interests go beyond the horizon".

The advertisement also notes that the watch could be made out of platinum, but no ref. 1416 in platinum is known yet (and only one is known for the ref. 1415).




credit: @minutesdevoyages


2/ Movement no. 176123, Case no. 618820

31 mm yellow gold case, moon-style hour hand and 30 world cities on bezel

Sold by Christie's in 2010


credit: Christie’s


3/ Movement no. 176125, Case no. 618821

31 mm yellow gold case, moon-style hour hand and 30 world cities on bezel

Sold by Antiquorum in 1999 and by Christie's in 2000.


credit: Antiquorum



To fully appreciate ref. 1416 HU, it is interesting to compare it with different examples of ref. 1415 HU.


B/ THREE EXAMPLES OF REF. 1415 HU

1/ Movement no. 962483, Case no. 655713 (1948)

31 mm pink gold case, moon-shape hour hand and 29 world cities on a completely flat bezel.

Sold by Antiquorum in 2001 and coming up for sale next November 8th 2025 at Phillips.









credit: Phillips (1-4) & Antiquorum


2/ Movement no. 921707, Case no. 632661

31 mm pink gold case, moon-shape hour hand and 32 world cities on a slightly convex bezel.

Recently sold by Artcurial on October 15th, 2025.


















credit: @minutesdevoyages (1-5) & Artcurial 


3/ Yellow gold, 3rd series

Flame hour hand and 41 world cities on a completely flat bezel










credit: @masalux


Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 1415

The Patek Philippe reference 1415 is a significant early World Time wristwatch, distinguished by its innovative mechanism for simultaneously displaying multiple time zones. It represents a key development in Patek Philippe's history of complicated watches, preceding later World Time models and establishing the brand's expertise in this horological function. The reference is notable for its integration of Louis Cottier's patented World Time system, which allowed for easy adjustment of the city ring and hour hand.

This reference was produced with a 31 mm case, available in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. It houses the manual-winding caliber 12''', offering a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch features an acrylic crystal and typically presents a silver dial. While not designed for water resistance, its construction reflects the manufacturing standards of its era.

For collectors, the 1415 is highly sought after as an early and pure expression of the World Time complication from Patek Philippe. Its various case materials and the historical context of its production from 1939 to 1954 contribute to its appeal. The reference is sometimes mistakenly associated with a "HU" designation, which is not officially part of its nomenclature.

Specifications

Caliber
12'''
Case
Yellow gold, Rose gold, Platinum
Diameter
31 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
Not water resistant
Crystal
Acrylic

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Oct 20, 2025
The 1415 HU remains my favorite, here. Because of the lugs.

QU
quattro
Oct 20, 2025
Yes, the teardrop lugs are very nice.

But on John Goldberger's wrist (cover photo), I like a lot the contrast between the round case and the straight lugs.

AM
amanico
Oct 20, 2025
I just discovered the 1416 HU!!!

QU
quattro
Oct 20, 2025
It took me quite some time to discover its existence too!

Only 3 examples made !

OY
oyster case
Oct 21, 2025
The 1416 is more to my liking but how does the sliding bezel stay put?

QU
quattro
Oct 21, 2025
I think it’s fixed to the case as any other rotating bezel.

The video below will give you an idea of how it works. Best, Emmanuel

Available on the marketplace

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