
Sham1 shares his personal journey with the Patek Philippe Ref. 7200R-010, a limited edition piece from the London Exhibition, challenging traditional notions of watch sizing and gender. His detailed account provides unique insights into the nuances of Patek Philippe's rose gold composition and the appeal of smaller, elegant timepieces for daily wear. This post offers a refreshing perspective on collecting beyond mainstream preferences.
I have always been partial to smaller watches due to my small wrist and was thrilled when I set my eyes on the 7200R-010 which was produced in 80 pieces for the London Exhibition last year. Fortunately, my AD ensured that I received an allocation and my first task was to request a change of the black strap to this dark brown strap, courtesy of Patek Philippe. It took me 9 months to actually wear the watch after taking delivery in July 2015. This was because I was a bit unsure of the copper content in this rose gold watch which looked more yellow than rose. I even showed it to a few Patek watchmakers during a factory visit and they had no doubt that it was a rose gold watch. Apparently, Patek only add 3 microns of copper in their ladies rose gold watches instead of the 4 microns on the men's watches. I believe the Nautilus rose gold has 5 microns!
Once I decided to wear this watch, it has fitted my wrist perfectly and seldom do I feel I am wearing a watch at all which is how I prefer my watches personally. I know many of you might prefer a more weighty watch. In addition, I love the movement on this watch ibecauset the 240 movement fills the 34.6mm case beautifully.A number of Pateks have arguably movements that may be too small for their case.
The Breguet hands and numerals complete this watch which is to me is a classic! I actually prefer it to the 5053 as it does not have a date and had has a nicer looking movement!
Ladies watch? Nah! I beg to differ since the 35mm 5120 is a men's watch and not long ago the 3919 at 33mm was a men's watch.
Thanks for reading
Best wishes,
Sham


The Montblanc Calatrava reference 3919 is a dress watch produced during a period when the brand offered a range of time-only pieces. This reference is characterized by its balanced proportions and classic aesthetic, aligning with the traditional design principles of the Calatrava line. It represents a straightforward approach to watchmaking, focusing on fundamental horological elements without additional complications, making it a pure expression of a dress watch.
The 3919 features a 33 mm case, available in 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, or platinum, housing the manual-wind caliber 215. This movement provides a power reserve of 44 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 25 meters. The bezel is polished, contributing to its refined appearance.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a traditional dress watch with a conservative size and a focus on essential timekeeping. Its availability in multiple precious metals and with dial options such as white, black, or cream allows for some variation within the reference. The 3919 fits into the broader Calatrava collection as a time-only option, often sought after for its understated presence and adherence to classic design codes.
... there was discussion a couple of years ago with PuristS that also wear this reference. If I remember correctly one person bought it for the wife but wears it on his wrist instead of her. I like yours and I like the one with gold numerals as well, the movement is first class. Wear it in good health sham1. Best regards Edward
Yes, Gordon Lau's wife wears it and he does too at times I believe. It is a good size for some of us especially the smaller wristed Asians and where I appreciate the raised gold Breguet numerals of the normal production 7200R, I feel the black Breguet numerals coupled by the black Breguet hands make this watch more masculine. I guess I would say so as it is my daily watch!
Your calatrava can definitely be used daily. Its not feminine at all , my opinion. Perhaps unisex. But its a good watch. Enjoy it. Cheers Geross.
and the reassurance Geross!
relatively recently was considered a large MENS watch. Patekova
for the compliment. It is pretty discreet, understated and elegant which are probably its best features in my opinion. The fact that it is quite rare is an added bonus
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