Patek Philippe Rare Vintage Dial Overview
Vintage

Patek Philippe Rare Vintage Dial Overview

By quattro · Mar 16, 2026 · 16 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
16 replies813 views13 photos
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, brings to light a truly unexpected Patek Philippe dial, prompting collectors to reconsider their perceptions of the brand's design history. His detailed presentation of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3798, a variant of the Golden Ellipse, challenges conventional aesthetics with its unique blend of dressy and sporty elements. This article delves into why this particular reference, with its 'Tuscany' center dial and luminescent alpha hands, remains a fascinating, albeit polarizing, discovery for even seasoned enthusiasts.

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Have you ever seen this dial before? For me, it's a complete and unexpected discovery.



Patek Philippe describes it as “Sunburst brown external dial, Tuscany center, applied yellow gold hour indexes”.



And, surprisingly, this dressy dial with an elaborately decorated center features luminescent alpha hands (an element of design I personally dislike).



The reference number of this timepiece is 3798.



It is a variant of the other oval-shaped Golden Ellipse ref. 3598, which is much closer to the original Ellipse and classic in style.



Here, there is a strange mix of dressy and sporty: a true UFO.



The watch belongs to the era when Ellipse watches had not yet become automatic.





credit: tw.bid.yahoo.com & @c4c_vintage_watches


This watch feels very strange and I don't like the luminescent hands, but I'd be interested to see it in real life.

How do you feel about it?

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Ellipse d'Or Ref. 3738

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, introduced in 1968, marked a significant aesthetic departure for the venerable Genevan manufacture. Conceived during an era of design innovation, its distinctive oval case was inspired by the "golden ratio," a mathematical proportion found in nature and art, aiming for perfect visual harmony. This model quickly established itself as a sophisticated dress watch, offering an elegant alternative to the prevalent round and rectangular forms, and became a cornerstone of Patek Philippe's collection for decades.

This particular Golden Ellipse exemplifies the model's diverse design language, featuring a captivating textured gold dial. While many Ellipse dials showcased a sunburst finish, this "basket weave" or "tapestry" pattern adds a unique depth and tactile quality, distinguishing it from more common iterations. The slender yellow gold case, housing a thin manual-winding movement (typical for vintage Ellipses), underscores Patek Philippe's mastery in crafting elegant, understated timepieces. The minimalist baton hour markers and delicate dauphine hands ensure legibility while maintaining the watch's refined aesthetic.

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse holds a nuanced position in the contemporary collector's market. While not always commanding the same fervent demand as sportier references, examples with unusual or rare dial configurations, such as this textured variant, are increasingly appreciated by connoisseurs seeking distinctive pieces of horological history. Its timeless design and Patek Philippe provenance ensure its enduring appeal, representing an era of bold design and understated luxury that continues to captivate those with an eye for classic elegance and subtle individuality.

Specifications

Case
yellow gold
Dial
gold

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MB
mblum3
Mar 16, 2026
Very interesting as all your posts are!

Given a choice, I do prefer the blue dial, but have a feeling that the other could very well grow on you. Liked the curved marquis (do you know any other references that have that too?😊. Also, as most pieces, there a lights that don't show off its best side, and those that do. I certainly would like to try it on!

QU
quattro
Mar 16, 2026
Thank you so much for your kind words.

Or course, I like the curved marquis, as you rightly expected I would ;-) And if I could, I'd love to see both a 3598 and a 3798 in person! The fact that both ref. are manual-winding versions of the Ellipse is very much to my taste. Best, Emmanuel

GL
GLau
Mar 16, 2026
An unusual piece for sure and I would be

interested to see it in the metal for both versions ! The decorated dial is seldom seen ! Thanks Emmanuel for these discoveries !

QU
quattro
Mar 16, 2026
My pleasure, Gordon.

I would also be quite curious to see this watch in the metal. Best, Emmanuel

CA
cazalea
Mar 16, 2026
I wouldn't wear it, but I still like it

This looks more like a woman's watch to me, and it has some cosmetic issues on the dial, but I still like the overall appearance. Thanks for the excursion in the PP margins Cazalea

MD
mdg
Mar 16, 2026
Looks very much like a women's watch...

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