Complications
MTF delves into Piaget's 'A Mythical Journey Collection,' focusing on the exquisite Precious Thread Embroidery technique used for watch dials. This installment highlights the Plum Blossom and Pine Tree motifs on the Altiplano 38mm, showcasing Piaget's innovative blend of traditional artistry and horology.
From the launch of 'A Mythical Journey Collection' of watches and jewellery by Piaget in November 2013, we take a closer look at a unique technique: Precious Metal Thread Embroidery for watch dials. Two versions of Piaget Altiplano 38mm Precious Thread Embroidery watches are featured in the Piaget Mythical Journey Collection with either plum flower or pine tree motifs on the dials.
Piaget was the first to introduce precious metal thread embroidery to watchmaking in 2013 with a celebratory watch edition of the Yves Piaget Rose (CLICK he following URI link):
piaget.watchprosite.com
Yves Piaget Rose
Precious Thread Embroidery watch dial Yves Piaget Rose motif (2013)
Embroidery throughout history
From the primitive arts to the most modern explorations, the history of embroidery is closely tied to that of civilisations. Though the needle and thread date back to prehistoric times, a number of writings, such as Homer’s Iliad, as well as ancient bas-reliefs from Egypt, Babylon, and Rome, contain evidence of the richness and beauty of fabric decorated with precious sewn threads of different colours and textures. According to tradition, it is to Asia that we owe the technique of beating gold or silver into gold or silver leaf and cutting the sheets into small ribbons that were then mixed with coloured threads.
Embroidery played an important role at the time in cultural exchanges through the fabric-laden caravans that travelled the Silk Road . It attained unequalled heights of sophistication in Byzantium.
During the Crusades, Europeans discovered the beauty of Middle Eastern embroidery and brought them back to their home countries, while developing them by means of their own techniques. Embroidery thus became a ceremonial art and artisans devoted the full force of their talent to adorning religious and royal garments.
How apt that the Mythical Journey Collection by Piaget includes icons from one end of the Silk Road : the plum blossom and pine tree of the Mystic East.
Piaget Altiplano 38mm Precious Thread Embroidery Dial
18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct), Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Black silk dial with precious thread embroidery, pine tree design
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 43-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 38 mm
Bracelet : black satin with white gold ardillon buckle
G0A38573
Piaget Altiplano 38mm Precious Thread Embroidery Dial
18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct), Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Black silk dial with precious thread embroidery, plum blossom design
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 43-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 38 mm
Bracelet : black satin with white gold ardillon buckle
G0A38574
Pine-tree branch tracing template
Perforating the tracing template for the pine-tree branch model that will serve as a pouncing pattern on the black silk. A white powder will pass through the perforations and thus mark out the points of reference.
Perforating the tracing template for the plum blossom model that will serve as a pouncing pattern on the black silk.
The process begins with silk, which is stretched and attached to a support and upon which the artist traces the lines of the design with chalk.
Pin cushion
Pine-tree branch tracing used to centre the embroidery, laminate couching thread needle
Laminate couching thread
Bobbin of couching thread
The embroidery artist uses the needle to form a cannetille, a small filigree-type element of a delicate spirally twisted gold thread. Each cannetille is then embroidered onto the silk, one detail after another, a process calling for a number of operations performed with indubitable patience.
Pine tree branch: raised satin stiches and filling in laminate couching thread re-embroidered with straight satin stitching
Pine needles: embroidered with laminate couching thread
On the Altiplano, the pine tree branch is made using raised satin stitches, a back-stitched filling re-embroidered with straight stitching, while the pine needles are embroidered with straight stitching. This motif calls for over six hours of work and two metres of precious thread. This extremely delicate embroidery technique requires working within less than half-millimetre precision. It requires close cooperation between Piaget and the embroidery artisan to guarantee the accurate proportions of the motif and comply with the size constraints of the dial, the height of the hand-fitting and the extreme slenderness of the case.
Embroidering the pine-tree branch through a magnifying glass to verify the regularity of the workmanship
The motif steadily comes to life beneath the artisan’s nimble fingers, as a wonderful association between the shiny black silk and the radiant precious thread begins to take shape. Reflecting the sparkling diamonds on the bezel, the tree thus immortalised under the sapphire crystal catches and forever holds the light. Like a black and white photograph, Altiplano captures the venerable symbol of the pine tree branch that becomes an ode to nature in its entirety. The result is an infinite wealth of emotion.
The process is the same for the plum blossom motif but the emotion is different as the flower evokes a different mood of Spring and new beginnings.
Plum blossom embroidered in laminate couching thread, regular straight stitches
Plum blossom: embroidered with laminate couching thread, regular straight stitches
Plum blossom embroidered in laminate couching thread, regular straight stitches
"A Mythical Journey by PIAGET" Series (CLICK the following URL links)
A Piaget Mythical Journey Begins (Overview)
piaget.watchprosite.com
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 2: Bulino Engraving
piaget.watchprosite.com
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 3: Plique-Ă -jour Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 4: Engraving Gold
piaget.watchprosite.com
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 5: Micro-mosaic
piaget.watchprosite.com
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 6: Precious Thread Embroidery
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 7: Miniature Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 8: Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com
Dr M. Teillol-Foo (2014)
... with your Mythical Journey series. Whenever I think thee is no step-up possible, you present another fascinating, seemingly impossible technique. This is really great stuff, and my respect for both, Piaget's dedication to handcraft, and your skill of awaking interest, is growing continuously. Marcus
Once again, thank you for taking us on a journey deeper and deeper into the artistry of the House of Piaget. I am just blown away by this first ever use of needle and precious metal thread in watchmaking. And 2 metres of thread on a tiny dial?! Women's watches yes, but I would proudly wear the pine-tree model sans diamonds. A fantastic pictorial report once again and looking forward to Mythical Journey part 7? (Are there any more techniques to cover?) Warmest, Dean
[Sigh] Alas, there are more techniques at the service of aesthetics at Piaget......my job is never done ! ;) MTF
.....techniques. It's a double-edged sword....the more techniques there are, the more work there is to report. Regards, MTF
Mythical Journey? I don't know, this Altiplano makes me think more about the Couture Precieuse! Thanks for the presentation! Fx
Piaget Couture Precieuse Collection I can see similarities between the precious metal thread embroidery and the Piaget Couture Precieuse Collection. This is not surprising because the thema of the latter were couture motifs and techniques including embroidery. Regards, MTF
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