MTF's preview of the Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin from SIHH 2012 offers a rare glimpse into the development of a record-breaking timepiece. His insights into Piaget's manufacturing prowess and commitment to ultra-thin movements remain highly relevant for collectors interested in the brand's technical achievements and design philosophy. This article highlights the evolution of Piaget's Altiplano line, emphasizing the significance of the 38mm case size for purists.

Piaget SIHH 2012 Preview
Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin

Two years ago, in a darkened safe room at Piaget headquarters, I was privy to view some prototypes that were eventually announced at SIHH 2010 as the double world record Piaget Altiplano Ultra-Thin watches. In 2010, Piaget celebrated the 50th anniversary of its legendary Calibre 12P by presenting Calibres 1200P (hours and minutes) and 1208P (hours, minutes and small seconds), the world’s thinnest mechanical movements in 43 mm diameter watches.

I suggested a classic 38 – 40 mm diameter Black Tie automatic ultra-thin watch would appeal to purists and PuristS but plans were already afoot to launch the 43 mm models. After ensuring the optimal development of the 1208P movements, the Altiplano Automatic 43 mm watches were launched and have been received well. Still, I pressed for a 38 – 40 mm watch...........

This year, I visited Piaget Geneva again, on the day before their internal SIHH 2012 Preview. Hundreds of exhausted Piaget elves were busy preparing their presentations and really, they did not need the extra hassle of a visitor. I was given a sneak peek.  The great news is that at least one classic sized Altiplano Automatic watch will be launched at SIHH 2012.....yay!   At last, the Altiplano collection developed by Piaget is the ultimate expression of formal purity .

The Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin model still boasts a double world record: the world’s thinnest self-winding skeleton watch (5.34 mm) houses the world’s thinnest self-winding skeleton movement (2.40 mm).

The Piaget 1200S ultra-thin skeletonised movement is designed, developed and produced by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget. Piaget now offers 18 ultra-thin movements and 5 skeleton movements that confirm their credibility as a Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie with mastery of the ultra-thin movement segment. Furthermore, Piaget pioneered new techniques for the art of skeletonisation or openworking.

 Assembly: barrel bridge and going train bridge

Openworking the world’s thinnest self-winding movement requires extreme mastery of the art. Engraving and hollowing the movement without affecting rigidity – and thus the smooth operation – is a task reserved for the world’s finest artisans. It called for intelligent planning during conception and calculations to redesign the world’s thinnest self-winding movement without affecting resistance and reliability. 'Form follows Function'' –  this is demonstrated by the the long curves extending across the mainplate and bridges to ensure the necessary optimum rigidity of the Piaget Calibre 1200S.

 
 Mainplate: hand bevelling

It took more than three years of R&D to fine-tune Piaget Calibre 1200S that is derived from the 1200P with a number of innovations. The micro-rotor in 950 platinum contributes to the exclusive nature of this fine movement . The balance-bridge features a harmonious and symmetrical design and the hour-wheel bridge was pared down to a minimum 0.11 mm thickness.

The pursuit of ultra-thin was achieved in tandem with exceptional decoration work. The modern effect based on the alternation between matt surfaces – sunray brushed or sandblasted – creating a contrast with the polished angles and the varied rhodiumed or black colours still has respect for traditional craftsmanship.

Balance bridge: hand drawing finish

The new Piaget Calibre 1200S is housed within a 38 mm-diameter white gold case specifically designed and developed to accommodate it – a harmonious integration between movement and exterior  – that Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has perfected.

Regards,

MTF