
Mkt33's quest for the ideal dress watch highlights a common dilemma for collectors: finding a timepiece that perfectly balances elegance, size, and horological pedigree for formal occasions. His detailed pictorial review of the Piaget Altiplano XL, a winner of the 2003 Geneva Grand Prix, offers valuable insights into what makes an ultra-thin watch a compelling choice. This article explores mkt33's criteria and the community's reactions, providing a timeless perspective on dress watch selection.

I recently began a search for my ideal dress watch. My wife would say it was another excuse to go watch shopping but she would only be partially correct. After a recent black tie event I realized that every watch that I considered a "dress" watch was either too big, too thick, or too "outlandish" for these types of social events. Without much thought my initial instincts told me that I would soon be adding a JLC, VC, or Patek to my collection.
I've ignored Piaget for a long time (mostly because I've always thought that ultrathin movements were to delicate for my lifestyle) but I was captivated by the PuristS report to the manufactory last year. After a week of doing my own due dilligence I was convinced that I should take a closer look at the brand. What caught my eye was the Altiplano XL, winner of the 2003 Geneva Grand Prix award as the best ultra thin watch of the year.
I distilled what I wanted in this ideal dress watch down to very PuristS qualities: a solid case back, a precious metal case, a dial with a classic yet modern design, no seconds hand, hand winding, and most importantly a valid pedigree. I thought the Altiplano fit well and was an excellent alternative, or sleeper, choice.
Do you think I made the right choice?

The thin angled lugs with the nicely sized crown and a slightly curved sapphire crystal. You definately get a nice and reassuring tactile sensation while winding the watch via the crown.

The solid white gold case back secured by six screws. Not that it really matters but the Altiplano is water resistant to 30m. Good enough for handwashing and perhaps the ocassional prankster pushing me into a pool. The movement is the Caliber 430P: 18 jewels, 21,600VPH, and 40 hours power reserve. This is the larger and newer derivation of the caliber 9P which placed Piaget into the Guiness Book of World records.

Even through the protective sticker (it's my personal compulsion to take off the sticker when wearing the watch, then replacing afterwards) you can tell the depth of the hand engraving on the Piaget emblem.

The white gold buckle's shape doesnot resemble any other detail on the watch. I think has a very art deco design which complements the overall look of the watch. Functionally the buckle is easy to secure and release. It is extremely comfortable to wear.

The lugs elevate the watch sitting on a flat surface but even then the complete watch is less than two nickles thick.

The Jaquet Droz was too big

The Peter Speake Marin was too thick.

The Vianney Halter was too loud.

The Altiplano is just right!
Cheers, Mike
Hi Mike Thanks for the great review. I am sorry if I missed it but what is the diameter. Also, I am with you on a nice simple elegant dress watch. I really like the idea of deleting the seconds hand. It just make the whole face simple and dignified. I have the JLC ultra thin but this Piaget will give it a run for the money. I will have to hunt one down and check it out in the flesh. Thanks Bill
Mastery of the "ultra-thin" has been a Piaget watch-word (pun intended) since their famous manual 9P and automatic 12P movements. The Altiplano range is also known as their 'Elegant Line' in the Black Tie Collection. In 1998, this redesigned 38 mm diameter model ref. G0A29112 won 'Watch of the Year' awarded by a jury of Swiss industry professionals and 'Best Ultra-thin Watch' at the 2003 Geneva Horology Grand Prix. It has the 430P movement. The XL is 40mm; this is Mike's watch. In 2008, a new XL
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My JLC is 1.38 mm thick and only 34mm. I feel so insufficient.
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Hi Mike I dropped 20+ pounds (mediterranean diet - lots o wine and food and weight gain just avoid the big macs.) since we last met. I had no idea that showed through in my posts. LOL :> Hope to connect soon. Bill
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