Piaget Polo 2013 Revision: History and Design

MTF revisits the 2013 Piaget Polo revision, a significant moment that prompted questions from enthusiasts about changes to the iconic design. This article delves into the historical context and enduring philosophy behind the original Piaget Polo, first introduced in 1979 by Yves G. Piaget.

'PIAGET POLO: A NEW CASE WITH A MORE PRONOUNCED CURVE'
'SIX NEW VERSIONS FEATURING GOLD AND LEATHER'

When faced with headline above at SIHH 2013, many Piaget enthusiasts exclaimed: "Why Oh Why?"

Conception

We had been conditioned to the permanence of the iconic Piaget Polo created by Yves G. Piaget in 1979. The Piaget Polo soon became a star because it was at the right place and time: when luxury and economies were booming.  They had just introduced the Piaget 7P quartz-powered analog-display movement driving classic hands on a conventional dial display. At just 3.1 mm thick, it was the thinnest in the world, and also a rare commodity due to being produced in extremely limited numbers. It was also helped by its design, its elegance and its spokesperson at the time, Ursula Andress .

Since then, it has found its way unscathed through changing fashions.  Much more than just a watch or a fashion accessory, it is an authentic symbol of luxury. Crafted in white or yellow gold, it is worn at any time of the day or night – and that is indeed one of the many reasons behind its amazing success.

“The entire Polo philosophy can be summed up in one sentence: it’s a watch bracelet rather than a mere wristwatch.” - Yves G. Piaget - “Each time people saw the name Piaget, they thought of the Polo, and each mention of the word Polo evoked Piaget. The identity of this watch became so powerful that we received requests for Polos from people who didn’t even know it was a Piaget watch…”

For a conservative family like Piaget in the tiny village of La Côte-aux-Fées, where, the only horses were farming dray-horses, the suggestion of naming the new watch 'Polo' was surprising, to say the least. After much debate, that was the chosen name, albeit very discreetly and for advertising purposes only, without placing this name on the watches themselves. Even with a fancy name, how could the world get to know about it? Yves G. Piaget was determined to go an innovative step further by personal networking. Only, in those days, the term had not been invented yet.

Yves Piaget recalls: “My first encounter with the world of show business came in 1964 when I met Maurice Chevalier. I hailed from the tiny village of La Côte-aux-Fées and was rather shy, but nonetheless already fascinated by human relations. Chevalier was a revered figure for the generation represented by my father (Gerald) and my uncle (Valentin). Things rapidly snowballed from there on. In 1964, I personally introduced Mireille Mathieu when she made her debut on the stage of the Palace Hotel in Gstaad. Later, I took Petula Clark along with me to the royal court of Iran. Around that period, all kinds of rumours were flying around regarding my supposed romantic ties with famous women such as Gina Lollobrigida and even Princess Soraya – whom I had only met twice.”

Adoption of Fame

At the 1980 World Polo Cup in Palm Beach, the Piaget Polo made its grand entrance onto the international jet-set scene. Celebrity press or papparazzi did not yet exist and nobody had yet had the idea of associating stars with the world of luxury. The watch starred in a succession of elegant evenings at Régine’s in New York and gala dinners at the Breakers, the finest hotel in Palm Beach. And to crown it all came an impromptu visit to the stables in the company of one of the world’s most beautiful women, Ursula Andress. The most famous James Bond Girl agreed to be the spokesperson for the new watch.
“She was a longtime friend and a great girl”, as Yves G. Piaget reminisces. “She allowed us to take pictures of her with the horses all morning. She also officially presented the Cup, and the pictures were soon circulating around the world.” Each of them featured a gold watch on the star’s wrist that was simply impossible to miss. The Piaget Polo had become an icon.

In 1980, a new quartz movement, Calibre 8P, made its appearance in the Piaget Polo. “This 1.95 millimetre-thick movement was particularly ingenious”, recalls Yves G. Piaget, and the ensuing success of this model certainly lived up to his expectations. In the early 1980s, the Piaget Polo accounted for almost one-third of the brand’s watch sales. Piaget did not maintain brand ambassadors nor subscribe to product placement but numerous press clippings and pictures from that period testify to its amazing popularity; Andy Warhol, Brooke Shields, Sammy Davis Jr, along with two stars from the Dynasty soap opera, John Forsythe and Pamela Sue Martin… All of them have at one time worn the legendary gold bracelet.

Evolution of Design

In 2001, the Piagt Polo had a facelift with a more graphic dial, a generous volume and a special curve that guaranteed a perfect fit thus assuring the iconic status of the Piaget Polo as a large-size model. Friends sitcom star Courtney Cox and her husband David Arquette succumbed to its charms, later followed by other showbusiness stars such as Ben Affleck, Puff Daddy, Rihanna and Alicia Keys.

The key design motifs have remained for 34 years. The same alternating matt and polished surfaces, the same regular radiance of the gadroons, and the same sophisticated integration of the bracelet, case and bezel.

The Piaget Polo FortyFive changed the game. Suddenly, there was a rubber strap with steel gadroons and a titanium case that could be overtly large and sporty. The previous "rule" of offerings only in precious gold or platinum was rescinded.

Last year's re-launch of the Piaget Gouverneur that could be elegant and still have enough volume to contain complicated movement meant that the Piaget Polo could take on even sportier duties.

The new Piaget Polo case on leather strap could bridge the span betwen the old Piaget Polo integrated bracelet and the Piaget Polo FortyFive rubber strap.

New 2013 Piaget Polo Collection

Piaget Polo Gents

The Piaget Polo now features a new case with a more pronounced curve. This improved design draws its inspiration from the sleek, technical style of the Polo FortyFive line launched in 2009. Crafted from 18ct pink gold, the four men’s watches utilise the curve of the wearer’s wrist for total comfort. They are matched with supple alligator leather straps fitted with a new pin buckle in 18ct pink gold.

The case diameter is still 43mm and the classic design codes of the Polo collection have been preserved. The distinguishing features include an integrated case and strap, interplay between polished and satin-brushed surfaces, domed sapphire crystal and bezel, and an exquisite dial with Arabic numerals or gold applique indexes. The 800P automatic and 880P automatic chronograph movements are designed, developed and produced entirely at the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget.

The new Piaget Polo Chronographe, available in two versions: one in 18ct pink gold, the other featuring a bezel set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.0 carat). This extra-flat self-winding 880P movement with a vertical coupling clutch has a range of complex features, including a flyback function, calendar and second time zone in 24-hour format, while its two barrels guarantee a 50-hour power reserve in chronograph-activation mode.

The new automatic Piaget Polo is also available with an optional bezel set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.0 carat). Crafted in 18ct pink gold, the watch is equipped with the 800P movement with automatic self-winding, showing the hour, minutes, seconds and date.

Differences

OLD  

Ladies OLD model

This ladies Piaget Polo shows the classic cylinderical case and narrow lugs.

Gents OLD 2009 Limited Edition

The differences are easily seen on the old two-tone model whose bezel at the integrated lugs has parallel sides whereas the new bezel has trapezoid sides.

NEW

The new 2013 Piaget Polo lugs are curvier and the crown is more prominent for ease of use.

The new hands are longer to correctly reach their markers; that is already a crucial difference that used to distract PuristS on the old models!

Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady

Designed in 2010 in the same sporting chic spirit as its masculine counterpart, the Polo FortyFive Lady offers the sleek elegance of a lady’s watch with plenty of character. Showcasing the Manufacture Piaget’s expertise as a jeweller, the two new creations from the Polo FortyFive Lady line feature a dial paved with 386 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.5 carats), mirrored in the bezel set with 50 diamonds (0.7 carat). Feminine and exquisite, these two pieces crafted in 18ct white gold and 18ct pink gold, respectively, are presented on an alligator leather strap.

With a 690P quartz movement manufactured by Piaget and treading the line between timepiece and jewellery, these strikingly elegant items reflect the design codes of the Polo FortyFive line – a historic model redesigned by Piaget.

Dr M.Teillol-Foo

May 2013