Rolex Cosmograph Paul Newman Dials History

DrStrong's comprehensive post delves into the history and distinctive characteristics of the Rolex Cosmograph "Paul Newman" dials. This article, part of a larger series, is crucial for collectors seeking to understand the origins, unique features, and market significance of these highly coveted vintage Rolex Daytonas, which remain a subject of fascination and debate among enthusiasts.

The Paul Newman dial – also called exotic dial by some collectors – is a dial variation that went with the Cosmograph throughout almost all the production period of the watch, from 1963 to 1978. It was originally destined for the American market, which explains the inscription Daytona on nearly all examples with pump pushers and on every available reference of the time. It must be pointed out that his dial is considered by Rolex as a regular production dial and does not have any official name.

1969 Rolex ad featuring a regular and an exotic dial Cosmograph

Of course this dial got his nickname from the actor who has been offered a while dial Cosmograph by his wife when he started his career as a professional driver in 1972 and has been wearing it continuously during ten years.

Paul Newman in 1974 (Photo Corbis)

Given that the number of original Paul Newman dials that can be found nowadays is reduced in comparison to other models, we can conclude that their production must have been less than that of other standard dials. This can be explained by the fact that the Rolex customers did not appreciate the look of the dial, this might also be explained by the difficulties in making the dial due to several specificities that make it nowadays special and attractive to the collector:.

• there is a small step between the plane of the main dial and the outside circular 1/5-second track

• the subdials are spiralled instead of simply milled like the standard Cosmograph dials; The standard dial has just a single right angle between the plane of the dial and that of the counters, there are two in the case of the exotic dial.

• the dial is  more complex to print because of the colour contrast required between the zones.

3D structure of the PN dial (Photo Roger)

With no official data, we can only guess at the total number of watches produced with this dial, without taking into account changes and replacements. Semi-official rumours say 200 watches, a plausible figure for dials with the Oyster inscription (models with screw-down pushers), which are rarer than the others; we can estimate the number of PNs at 1,000, with the reference with pump pushers.

The dials variations are the following:

- for the steel models with pump pushers: two colors white dials and three colors white or black dials are possible. There are small variations among each kind of dial, especially concerning the shape and the length of the word “swiss” on the bottom of the dial. The late 6262 black dial uses a different font for the word “Rolex”.

Cosmograph ref. 6239 with a three colors white dial (Photo A. Shear)

Cosmograph ref. 6239 with a three colors black dial (Photo E. Ku)

Cosmograph ref. 6262 with a three colors black dial (Photo P. Stahl)

- for the steel models with screw down pushers: two colors white dials and three colors black dials exist. The fonts used for these dials can have a more or less pronounced “serif”.

Cosmograph ref. 6263 with a two colors “non serif” white dial (Photo AQ)

Cosmograph ref. 6263 with a two colors “serif” white dial (Photo AQ)

- for the gold models: there are two colors champagne or black dials

Cosmograph in gold with a champagne dial (Photo S Mazzariol)

Cosmograph in gold with a black dial (Photo S Mazzariol)

Finally, here’s a 1960’s Rolex ad with several exotic dials illustrated:

1960’s Rolex ad featuring several exotic dials

And more legendary action…

Paul Newman on the Riverside track in 1981

Acknowledgements: M. Pisani