Collection
Dje shares a deeply personal journey spanning over two decades, culminating in his acquisition of a Rolex GMT-Master. His narrative explores the complex relationship between aspiration, perception, and the eventual realization of owning a watch that, for many, symbolizes both horological excellence and societal status. This piece offers a relatable perspective on the emotional weight behind a significant watch purchase.
I can't
tell how and where I saw the name Rolex for the first time. I can just say that
I thought about offering myself a Rolex quite regularly since 1988! I can be
that precise because I kept the catalogues since that time.
I have to be
honest and say that I was a bit young in 1988 to buy myself such a watch, or
nearly any watch, as I was 15! When I later went into capacity to materialize
my passion for horology into a watch on my wrist, the Rolex name was at the
same time for me a symbol of quality in calibres and usable watches, and on the
contrary a symbol of wealth expressed to others, what in France we name "un
signe exterieur de richesse". Something I was not willing to show!
I come from a
small and somewhat poor town of fishermen where I could still see Rolexes on
the wrist of the rich men, while I hardly ever saw a nice watch from another
brand out of my own wrist! No kidding, and I'm sure many of us have felt
the same situation.
So the wish to
buy a Rolex for myself remained a wish for so long. I still have to buy myself
a Rolex in fact!
But an
unexpected offer happened around a month ago. I was trying to sell some watches
I don't wear anymore and was offered to exchange one of them - a Panerai
210 - against a Rolex!
The decision to
accept was taken rapidly, without seeing the watch offered, as I was tempted to
finally try a Rolex on the long run. And I didn't even have to buy it!
The strange
part of the story was that I've hesitated for long between an Explorer 1 and a Submariner no date,
even thinking about a Daytona quite often, but never thought about a GMT
Master! Living on the sea side I was appealed by the water resistance of the
14060, was also caught by the supposed discretion of the Explorer 1, and have always
loved the Daytona.
I had of course
for long noticed the so-called "pepsi cola" but don't ask me
why I had never been appealed! I had had the opportunity to see two of them on
the wrists of two of my father's old friends, and was probably seeing them
as old men's watches!
Should I add
that for those twenty years the only thing I hated on Rolex watches was the
loupe on the date?
I've now
worn the watch below for three weeks!
My own Rolex GMT Master 16700
The watch is
apparently from 1989, as the exchanger indicated. I've not had time to
check anything yet.
The watch works
well but is a bit fast IMO. The crown has a strange feeling when manually
winding and I think something may be worn inside at that point. I will
certainly get it serviced next year if finances allow to do so!
The bezel as
you can see has a nice faded two tone. It is not properly aligned but I can
live with it till it's serviced. The tritium indexes and hands are more
white than cream coloured but they keep the watch cool! No green light coming
from this one. Of course they are not too flashy in the dark but it's
enough at night to tell the time when I wake up!
The most colourful Rolex probably
The best
surprise, out of the fact that I love the watch and have nearly worn it for the
entire last three weeks, is the immediate adaptation to the loupe. I had
borrowed a Sub date from a friend once and not been able to appreciate the
watch. The date was my main conscious concern. Maybe the full black appearance
was a problem too!
So I
immediately got used to the loupe on this one. As I'm shortsighted I
really appreciate it on daily basis.
The modern crossing bridge
I had looked at
vintage Rolex watches during these 20 years but the point that was catching my
eyes was the current calibre with its crossing bridge and Breguet end curve
spring. I'm more and more appealed by watches with chronometric capacities
and feel that these modern calibres from Rolex are in that league. The central
second hand is also one of my favourite choices. I will certainly be a pain for
the watchmaker who will service my new watch, as long as it will not be
perfectly timed! I'd better tell him before.
The red 24 hour hand
I also find the
24 hour hand practical. I don't know if it's the colour but I often
read the time on the 24 hour hand instead of the 12 hour one. I hope to still
be able to read the time on my other watches in a few weeks.
Breguet end curve spring
The case size
is perfect for my modest wrist (that was the main problem with my 45mm PAM
210). The Oyster bracelet is very pleasing to wear (I had the same on a Tudor 94010 a few years back). Overall
that makes that watch a very easy watch to wear.
Apparently the
GMT Master is not too well known because people around me who know that I have something
with watches don't seem to notice this one. I hope it will last!
Already a vintage flair
Finally you've
understood that I'm quite happy with this one! It's as pleasing as
it was unexpected only a month ago! I have no idea if it will last, but I'm
sure it won't be my only Rolex. Now I want a black dial Daytona again! It
won't be for soon as I need more to sell watches than buy any, but I've
surpassed the mental barrier that was preventing me from wearing a Rolex!
I need more of this one
I hope you like
it too!
Thank you for
reading.
Cheers
Dje
The GMT-Master reference 16700 was introduced as a transitional model, serving as a more traditional alternative to the then-new GMT-Master II reference 16710. It maintained the original GMT-Master functionality, allowing for the tracking of two time zones simultaneously through its independent 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. This reference represents the final iteration of the original GMT-Master line, preceding the full transition to the GMT-Master II architecture. It was produced concurrently with the early GMT-Master II models, offering a choice for collectors who preferred the simpler GMT mechanism.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel case, characteristic of many Rolex professional models of its era. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3175, which provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel, often seen with a "Pepsi" (blue and red) or "Coke" (black and red) insert, allows for the tracking of a second time zone.
For collectors, the 16700 holds significance as the last of the true GMT-Master series, distinct from the GMT-Master II's independently adjustable 24-hour hand. Its production period, spanning from the late 1980s to the late 1990s, places it at an interesting juncture in Rolex's history. It appeals to those who appreciate the classic GMT-Master design and functionality, often sought after for its robust construction and the availability of various bezel insert options.
I bought too many Rolex watches this year and can definitely appreciate where you're coming from, even if I'm not from the same town of fishermen. - SJX
It's been my experience that classics in almost any field are generally considered so for a reason and usually some practical experience with such classics gives a much better opinion than simply judging them from pictures. Like you prior to the acquisition I have similar reservations about the bezel colors and the cyclops, but given your experience it's made me think twice. Well, in any case, long live the classics and congratulations on your new acquisition!
My first expensive watch was a ...16 700, and I bought it in ...1998! Like you, I dreamt of my first watch when I was much younger, while seeing the Thomas Magnum 1675 ... So, there will always be something special between this GMT and me... I'm pretty sure this will be a great love sotry behind your GMT and you! Best, my friend, Nicolas
Congratulations to your catch Jerome Seems like we almost have the foundation for a little club here.... I purchased my first expensive watch in OZ in 1998, this was a Rolex GMT Master 16700 with the same dial as yours (ok, I purchased a AP RO the same year). I made one mistake. I sold the watch a few years later, due to the colored bezel and that my boss boss had one also and looked a little funny on me. This Rolex is one of very few watches I have ever sold (one of the other was a Panerai Mari
The first watch I bought is also a GMT Pepsi Enjoy it, it is a marvellous watch which can do everything, sport, classy and not boring at the same time. Good choice Francois!
Thanks Jerome, And nice Rolex GMT. Congratulations! I particularly enjoyed reading about your experiences coming to your first Rolex. I have also been wearing my first Rolex ( 5513 Submariner ) over the last few weeks and once I got used to the ‘brand’ on my wrist I quickly came to love the watch. To borrow Nicolas’ term, it is the most “vampirish” of watches I own. I have been more content to wear this one than any other. Unexpected for me too. I will post my observations shortly, but you and I
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