Baron - Mr Red continues his acclaimed series on identifying future classic Rolex watches from the 1990-2018 era, turning his attention to the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16760. This installment delves into the unique attributes and historical significance that position the "Fat Lady" as a strong candidate for future collectibility, offering collectors a detailed guide to its distinguishing features.
The first in this series of articles looked at identifying watches from the 1990-2018 era that could become future classics. Part 1 highlighted the Rolex Submariner 16610LV.
This article, Part 2 of 8 will look at the Rolex GMT-Master II 16760. It has many factors that also point towards it becoming a future classic.
First, I am highlighting below the criteria that I used in the first article to guide my thinking.
A number of criteria form what it takes to be a future classic. In my view, it would roughly comprise the following:
- Of limited production thereby making it reasonably hard to find. Supply needs to be of a sufficient number to make the hunt realistic, but hard enough to make it a test.
- Within a specific reference, there is usually some distinguishing factor that separates one type of dial from another. The rarer the dial variant, the more in-demand it will be.
- Unique appearance. Take for example the Big Crowns that have clearly recognisable characteristics that make them easy to identify. Similarly, on Milsubs, the marking on the insert makes them stand out as does their military features.
- Typically, a collectible watch marks something important in the history of Rolex. It is not always the case, but often it can be. Take the Sea-Dweller 1665, for example. The invention of the HEV came with the 1665 and that marked a very significant point in Rolex history and how it subsequently shaped the company. When a watch has a special importance in the history of Rolex, it can turn that watch into something that collectors demand.
I think it is fair to say that it isn’t necessary to tick every box but is important to tick enough of them. The 16760 certainly does that. The 16760 was in production for just five years from 1983 to 1988. OK, that is a little out of my original remit of the past thirty years, but only just!! The 16760 was:
- immediately notable for its more prominent, thicker case - nicknamed the "Fat Lady" or the "Sophia Loren"
- the very first GMT-Master II
- the first GMT to sport the red & black coke insert. The watch was immediately differentiated from other GMT in that it was only ever issued with the coke insert.
- the very first GMT to have a sapphire crystal. Collectors are turning more and more to this transition era - the sapphire era.
- the first GMT to use white gold on the dial. 18k white gold was used to surround the hour markers.
- the first GMT to have an independent centre hour hand that allowed the centre hour hand to be altered independently from the 24-hour hand. Tis marked a new innovation.
These factors make the 16760 an important watch for Rolex in terms of its history. It marks a lot of "firsts".
The 16760 also has a dial quirk to it too. A very small percentage of 16760s were made with a dial that reads “Oyster Perpetual” underneath the coronet and Rolex. In other words, it misses the word “date”. Most dials have “Oyster Perpetual Date” but a few just have “Oyster Perpetual”.
How rare is the 16760? Well, if you type in Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 in Chrono, you will likely get around 400 hits of watches for sale. If you do the same for the Rolex GMT-Master II16760, you will see around 15 for sale globally. How many “no-date” versions? Maybe one or two. This is a rare watch either with or without the dial anomaly. Yet it is not exactly priced like a future classic. In fact, most 16760s are priced below where a modern GMT would be priced. I see this watch as very likely to become more and more appreciated as collectors see it for what it is. It has many of the features that collectors deem as attractive. And importantly, it is still priced at a great level for what is an important GMT that is also relatively hard to find. I would say that it matters to me to find one in great condition and with proper box and papers. How many of those are out there?
Very few.
Yes, this is a modern Rolex that thoroughly deserves its place on my list of “future classics”.
Date versus "No-Date" versions
(images found anonymously on internet)
About the Rolex 1665 Ref. 1665
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is a significant model within the brand's professional tool watch lineage, distinguished by its enhanced water resistance compared to contemporary Submariner models. This reference was developed to meet the demands of professional saturation divers, featuring a helium escape valve (HEV) integrated into the case side, a key differentiator from other Rolex dive watches of its era. It represents a period of innovation in deep-sea horology, offering a robust solution for extreme underwater environments.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, designed for durability and resistance to high pressures. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 610 meters, and typically features a black dial with luminous hour markers.
For collectors, the reference 1665 is notable for its functional design and its place in the evolution of professional dive watches. Early examples, often referred to as "Double Red Sea-Dweller" (DRSD) due to two lines of red text on the dial, are particularly sought after. Later versions feature all-white text. The presence of the helium escape valve and its robust construction make it a distinct and historically important piece for those interested in the development of specialized timekeeping instruments.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1575
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 610m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 16760
The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16760, often referred to as the "Fat Lady" or "Sophia Loren" by collectors due to its thicker case profile, represents a significant evolution in the GMT-Master line. It was the first GMT-Master II model, introducing an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, which allowed for the tracking of three time zones simultaneously when used in conjunction with the rotating bezel. This reference also marked the introduction of the sapphire crystal to the GMT-Master series, enhancing its durability and water resistance compared to earlier models. It was exclusively produced with a black and red bezel insert, known as the "Coke" bezel.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, housing the Caliber 3085 automatic movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and incorporates the quickset date function. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 100 meters. The robust construction of the Oyster case and bracelet ensures its suitability for daily wear.
As a transitional reference produced for a relatively short period, the 16760 holds a distinct place among Rolex collectors. Its unique case proportions and the distinction of being the inaugural GMT-Master II model contribute to its appeal. The limited bezel color option and the introduction of new technical features make it a notable piece for those interested in the development of Rolex's professional tool watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.3085
- Case
- stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex 16710 Ref. 16710
The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16710 represents a significant evolution in the brand's dual time zone offerings, succeeding the reference 16760. It maintained the core functionality of displaying two time zones simultaneously, distinguishing itself through a slimmer case profile compared to its predecessor and the introduction of different bezel insert options. This reference was produced for an extended period, allowing for various dial and bezel configurations that are of interest to collectors. It is a transitional model that bridges earlier five-digit references with modern six-digit iterations.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, housing the automatic caliber 3185, which provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating bezel, often seen with a Pepsi (red and blue) aluminum insert, allows for tracking a third time zone. The dial is black, and the watch is typically paired with a steel Oyster bracelet.
For collectors, the 16710 is notable for its versatility and the variations available throughout its production run, including different luminova types on the dial and the availability of black, Coke (black and red), and Pepsi bezel inserts. Its position as a robust and functional tool watch, combined with its classic proportions and the reliability of its movement, makes it a frequently sought-after reference. It appeals to those who appreciate the traditional aesthetic of Rolex's GMT-Master II line before the introduction of ceramic bezels and larger cases.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3185
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610LV
The Submariner Date reference 16610LV, often recognized by its distinctive green bezel, was introduced to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner line. This particular reference stands out from the standard Submariner Date models due to its unique colorway, offering a different aesthetic while retaining the core design principles of the collection. It represents a specific period in the Submariner's evolution, bridging classic design with a celebratory touch.
This reference features a 40mm Oyster case crafted from 904L stainless steel, paired with a matching Oyster bracelet. It is equipped with the self-winding Rolex Caliber 3135, a movement known for its precision and reliability, offering a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, and its construction ensures a water resistance rating suitable for its intended use.
For collectors, the 16610LV holds particular appeal due to its limited production run and unique bezel color, distinguishing it from other Submariner Date references. It is a notable variant within the Submariner family, offering a distinct visual identity while maintaining the robust engineering associated with the model. Its place in the lineup is marked by its anniversary significance and its departure from the traditional black bezel.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3135
- Case
- 904L Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
