Baron - Mr Red's report captures the essence of an extraordinary vintage Rolex GTG in London, themed "Issued" watches, primarily military provenance. The event brought together 40 collectors from around the world, highlighted by the rare reunion of two Rolex Sea-Dweller Gold Oman watches, brothers separated for 40 years.
All animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others. The same is true with GTGs. This weekend, I attended one of those more unusual GTGs. When the most common watch in the room is a Rolex Milsub, it suggests a somewhat unusual GTG.
Travelling on a River Thames boat in London, 40 or so collectors from all around the world got together for a most stunning occasion. The theme of the GTG was “Issued” watches, with the bulk of the offerings being military provenance.
For me, it was an opportunity to meet not only lots of new faces and friends, but the chance to meet the owner of the brother to my Sea-Dweller Gold Oman. Four exist in the world. Three of those come from a batch with serial numbers within 10 of each other. All four watches came, originally, with no lume at all. Regrettably, one owner decided to lume his watch. The owner I was to meet had the closest version to mine…. no lume….from the batch of three with consecutive serial numbers….these two watches are brothers and in all likelihood have not been together since their original issue 40 or so years ago.
An historic meeting of watches….
Globally, one would have to say that the Omani Sea-Dwellers are a rare breed. On the River Thames boat, however, it was not so rare! Joining the two gold Omanis were two red versions....
Oh, I forgot tio mention, there is also an Omani GMT joining the Gang of Four. Fancy a close-up of one of those Red Omani in the sun? Just spectacular!
Not wanting to push the Omani theme too far....but actually....why not? Rolex Day-Date on a Red Omani!
But the spread of different watches at this event went much further. Here is one of the most beautifully patinated Milsubs that I have ever seen.
From Milsubs to Double Red Sea-Dwellers. This one is rather special..... Every now and then (if you are lucky), you will see a MK2 dial turn tropic. When it happens, it creates a most amazing patination. I have tried to capture a taste of the even golden brown nature of the dial but have not really done justice to it. A superb DRSD.
And talking about unusual patina, this 5512 Submariner stood out to me as simply breath-taking. I know I am being picky here, but when a watch is described as tropical, so often the one doing the describing can be a little too liberal. To me, a tropical dial needs to be evenly dispersed and without damage. A little bit like this:
This Submariner 5508 also had some unusual patina - I have never seen a more deeply orange dial.
Going back briefly to the 1665 Mk1 Patent Pendings.....I forgot to mention the beautiful "pink" that was on board.
Did I say that there were one or two Comex on board? To be honest, I did lose count of the Comex.....such a common watch.....!
But one Comex, in particular, did catch my eye. Initially, I loved it because of its patina. I have a plain old simple 16660 with an almost identical patina. So when I saw this, I thought it was special...being Comex AND with such patina. When I turned the watch over, however, I found it to be one of the Hydra V expedition watches. To be honest, although there were literally dozens of Comex on board, this one was the one that caught my eye a lot....really....a lot.
The other watch that really caught my eye was a superb Explorer Sub 3-6-9.... oh yes a Milsub version of that 3-6-9, and of course a 6200 3-6-9.........well, here those three are in one shot.
Want a close up?
Given that this was an "issued" theme, there were not as many Chrnographs as one might find in a normal GTG....however, a few did sneak in...in a quiet sort of under-the-radar manner....
Of course, this was not all about Rolex...a few other manufacturers made some strong showings.....A JLC DeepSea Alarm, A Blancpain Tornek, a superb Berguet as well as an entire army of Tudor MN. And of course a few Panerai!
I am going to finish with a couple of unique wrist shots. Obviously I am a little biased with this. The first is a shot of a red and gold Omani ...
And the second is, I am quite sure, the first time that two gold Omanis have been wrist-shot in the same picture....at least the only two that have been confirmed as delivered by Rolex.....
When the boat trip came to an end, we disembarked and found ourselves at the horological centre of the world....the Greenwich Observatory!
It goes without saying that this was an extraordinary GTG. So many new friends made and so many stunning watches on show. I think it is always an interesting situation when a bunch of people get to gather with their watches and see what other people have come to collect. Obviously, we collect what we collect because of our love for that particular watch. Yet, other people have different tastes and themes. What I always learn from looking at the "loves" of others is that there is no "best" or "superior" collection. A watch means what it means to its owner and that supersedes any other variable. It supersedes value, subjective aesthetics, rarity etc etc. We love what we love....and in that type of environment, egos go out the door and instead there emerges a genuine appreciation of how others have built their collections.
What I will say is that events like this do not happen by chance. To get 40 or so collectors from all around the world together is no mean feat. Jed, Mike and Paul....thank you so much for your integral part in putting this GTG together. It was astonishing in so many ways.
This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-03-31 02:07:37 This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-03-31 02:14:56 This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-03-31 02:55:08 This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-03-31 03:00:59 This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-03-31 06:30:46
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal.1520
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
40mm
Dial
Black gilt
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal.1575
Case
steel
Diameter
40mm
Dial
black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic (Plexiglas)
About the Rolex Ref. 5514
The Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a specialized variant of the Submariner line, produced exclusively for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French industrial deep-sea diving company. This reference is distinguished by its unique helium escape valve, integrated into the left side of the case, a feature not found on standard Submariner models of its era. It represents a purpose-built tool watch designed for professional saturation divers, setting it apart from other Submariner references intended for broader commercial release. Its limited production and specific client make it a notable piece within the brand's history of professional watches.
The case of the reference 5514 is crafted from stainless steel, typically measuring 40mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, likely the Rolex Caliber 1520 or 1530, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a Plexiglas crystal, consistent with Rolex sports models from the mid-20th century, providing durability and ease of maintenance in demanding environments. The helium escape valve is a key technical modification, allowing accumulated helium to escape during decompression without damaging the watch crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in specialized Rolex tool watches and those with a focus on professional diving equipment. Its association with COMEX and the presence of the helium escape valve make it a distinct and highly sought-after model. Variants often include dials with the COMEX logo, further emphasizing its unique provenance. The 5514 occupies a specific niche, representing a period when Rolex collaborated directly with professional organizations to develop watches tailored for extreme conditions.
Specifications
Caliber
1520/1530
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
40mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Plexiglass
About the Rolex 1665 Ref. 1665
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is a significant model within the brand's professional tool watch lineage, distinguished by its enhanced water resistance compared to contemporary Submariner models. This reference was developed to meet the demands of professional saturation divers, featuring a helium escape valve (HEV) integrated into the case side, a key differentiator from other Rolex dive watches of its era. It represents a period of innovation in deep-sea horology, offering a robust solution for extreme underwater environments.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, designed for durability and resistance to high pressures. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 610 meters, and typically features a black dial with luminous hour markers.
For collectors, the reference 1665 is notable for its functional design and its place in the evolution of professional dive watches. Early examples, often referred to as "Double Red Sea-Dweller" (DRSD) due to two lines of red text on the dial, are particularly sought after. Later versions feature all-white text. The presence of the helium escape valve and its robust construction make it a distinct and historically important piece for those interested in the development of specialized timekeeping instruments.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal. 1575
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
40 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
610m
Crystal
Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200
Rolex Submariner Reference 6200
The Rolex Submariner reference 6200 represents an early iteration within the Submariner No Date series. Produced during 1954-1955, this reference features a 37mm case size and incorporates the essential diving watch elements of a rotating unidirectional bezel and 200-meter water resistance. The black dial configuration provides the foundational aesthetic that would characterize the series.
The 37mm stainless steel case houses the automatic caliber A.260 movement, offering a 42-hour power reserve. An acrylic crystal protects the black dial, while the rotating unidirectional bezel provides the timing functionality. The watch is completed with a steel bracelet, maintaining material consistency throughout the construction.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on early Submariner iterations and those interested in the technical specifications of 1950s Rolex production. The brief production window of 1954-1955 and the specific caliber A.260 movement distinguish this reference within the broader Submariner catalog. The 37mm case size and acrylic crystal reflect the manufacturing standards of the mid-1950s period.
Specifications
Caliber
A.260
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
37 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic
Key Points from the Discussion
Multiple attendees shared additional photographs, showcasing a wider array of the rare and historically significant Rolex watches present at the event.
The event was a unique opportunity to see a concentration of highly sought-after vintage Rolex models, including multiple Milsubs and Omani Sea-Dwellers.
The gathering prompted reflection on modern Rolex design, with a desire for new interpretations of vintage elements, such as a modern double red Sea-Dweller.
The event reinforced the idea that collecting can be both broad and incredibly deep, showcasing diverse yet highly focused collections.
A close-up image of a Rolex Milsub caseback reveals the military markings, emphasizing the 'Issued' theme of the gathering.
An interesting detail was a special device used to fix the bezel and case, which was noted for its security implications.
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The Discussion
PA
patrick_y
Mar 31, 2014
It's indeed astonishing in so many ways. I'm at a loss for words. But I don't think many are needed. So I'll leave it at that. If I were a modern Rolex, from the current collection, I wonder which one I would want to be if I were to be on this boat. Any suggestions?
BA
Baron - Mr Red
Mar 31, 2014
....the brand new Sea-Dweller....just because there were so many SDs on the boat, it would have been "interesting" to have that comparison. But yes.... a great question to ask.
PA
patrick_y
Mar 31, 2014
The new Sea Dweller, but only partially because of its novelty, and mostly because of its unique history. I think the most recent past Sea Dweller would also garner some respect among this group of collectors. What would a group like this wish Rolex to design today? I've asked myself this question, and I can't answer it. Everything in essence at Rolex is already a re-launch of something Rolex has already made in its past. Rolex is the best company at providing modern interpretations of its vinta
GE
gensiulia
Mar 31, 2014
thanks for the report Joe. more HEVs less Pushers
MI
Mike Wood
Mar 31, 2014
Thank you for coming along to join us and making the event so enjoyable! As you say, egos are left at the door, and it's just great to share watches and meet friends old and new! MW :-)
BA
Baron - Mr Red
Mar 31, 2014
.....like I said before, the River trip was inspired and allowed for a truly relaxing opportunity to view all the watches. It was great to be invited and be part of such an occasion. Joe
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