Baron - Mr Red presents his curated list of top 10 "daily wearer" Rolex watches from the neo-vintage era (1990-2010), focusing on robust, cool, and subtly rare references. This article serves as a valuable guide for collectors seeking watches that offer excellent value and a unique twist, without breaking the bank.
Over the course of 2018, I wrote a number of articles that aimed to put together a list of Rolex that were no longer in production but were from the post 1990 era. The aim was to identify watches that are cool in their own right, great references, modern and robust, but with a twist - an element of rarity. To my mind, it was marrying the concept of a daily wearer with a twist. I wanted my “most desirable” list to be priced in a $5000-$20000 range, with the majority of the watches in the bottom half of that range.
Well, the list was compiled slowly over the course of last year. It is now time to recap on that list and summarise it. I don’t think there is a point in calling it a Top 10 as that will imply that No.1 is somehow “better” than No.10. So, I will produce the list randomly so that no inference will be made. I am attaching the links to the six articles I wrote last year in case anyone wishes to re-read any of it as all of the 10 watches are encompassed in those six articles.
To re-iterate, the aim of the list is to provide members with watches that I consider to be outstandingly cool beaters at a price that is not crazy. The watches will represent what I think is a fantastic value to rarity ratio.
No.1: Reference: 16610 LV “The Kermit”
No.2: Reference: 16760 “The Fat Lady”
No.3: Reference: 16700 (Swiss)
No.4: Reference: 16700 (Swiss made)
No.5: Reference: 16710 (Swiss)
No.6: Reference: 14060 (Swiss)
No.7: Reference: 14060 4-line with Long F - “The LGF”
No.8: Reference: 16570 (Swiss) “The Red Sox”
No.9: Reference: 16710 (Stick dial)
No.10: Reference: 168000 “The Zubmariner”
Vintage Rolex is so often all about the minutiae. Well, its not just the vintage era that has this issue. Even the modern variations of Rolex have minute differences that can differentiate. Basically, I have three main references that I collect; Patek Philippe, Rolex and JLC. I see Patek Philippe as a manufacturer that specialises in high end complications. I see Rolex as a manufacturer that produces great tool and sports watches. JLC is a different category for me as it is there for sentimental reasons. Hence, for a Patek collector, I see great sense in finding Rolex that act for me as great everyday wearers. But to be honest, the problem with an everyday wearer is that it can become quite boring. My hope for the above list is that it ticks enough boxes of interest to act as an everyday wearer that retains loads of fun and interest…..with that twist of rarity.
About the Rolex bart simpson Ref. 14060
The Rolex Submariner reference 14060 represents a transitional period for the brand's professional dive watch line. It is notable for being a no-date Submariner, maintaining a clean dial aesthetic favored by many collectors. This reference succeeded earlier no-date Submariners and preceded later iterations with updated movements and materials, positioning it as a bridge between vintage and modern Rolex production.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, characteristic of the Submariner line. It is equipped with the automatic caliber 3000 movement, providing a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch utilizes a sapphire crystal, offering enhanced scratch resistance, and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with an aluminum insert.
The 14060 appeals to collectors seeking a Submariner without the date complication and its associated cyclops lens. It is recognized for its robust construction and functional design. While sharing many characteristics with its date-equipped counterparts, the absence of a date window distinguishes it within the Submariner family and contributes to its distinct collector appeal.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3000
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Rolex Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570
The Explorer II reference 16570 represents a significant evolution within the Explorer II line, succeeding the 16550 and introducing updated aesthetics and technical refinements. It maintained the core utility of a robust tool watch designed for explorers and those who operate in environments where distinguishing day from night is challenging, thanks to its 24-hour hand and fixed bezel. This reference is often considered a modern classic, bridging the gap between earlier vintage models and contemporary Rolex offerings.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel case, housing either the Caliber 3185 or later the Caliber 3186 automatic movement, providing a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing durability and scratch resistance compared to earlier acrylic crystals. The watch offers a water resistance of 100 meters, suitable for everyday wear and light water activities, and is paired with a fixed stainless steel bezel engraved with 24-hour markers.
Appealing to collectors who value a blend of functionality and understated design, the 16570 is available with either a black or white dial, the latter often referred to as the "Polar" dial. Its production run saw the transition between different calibers, which can be a point of interest for enthusiasts. The reference is a practical choice for those seeking a GMT complication in a durable and recognizable form factor, without the rotating bezel found on other GMT models.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3185 or Cal. 3186
- Case
- stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- white or black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex Date Ref. 16610
The Rolex Submariner reference 16610 is a robust and functional diver's watch, representing a key evolution within the Submariner lineage. It succeeded the reference 168000 and introduced incremental updates while maintaining the core design principles of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its use of 904L stainless steel and a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and water resistance for demanding use. It remained a cornerstone of the brand's sports watch offerings for many years.
This reference features a 40mm case crafted from 904L stainless steel, housing the automatic Caliber 3135 movement. This self-winding mechanical movement is known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet), secured by a Triplock winding crown. The unidirectional rotating bezel is equipped with an aluminum insert.
The 16610 appeals to collectors seeking a modern classic Submariner that bridges the gap between vintage and contemporary iterations. It represents the last generation of Submariners with an aluminum bezel insert before the introduction of ceramic bezels. Variants primarily involve minor dial changes over its production run, such as lug hole cases versus no lug hole cases, and the transition from tritium to Luminova luminescence. Its long production period makes it a widely recognized and accessible reference.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3135
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16700
The GMT-Master reference 16700 was introduced as a transitional model, serving as a more traditional alternative to the then-new GMT-Master II reference 16710. It maintained the original GMT-Master functionality, allowing for the tracking of two time zones simultaneously through its independent 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. This reference represents the final iteration of the original GMT-Master line, preceding the full transition to the GMT-Master II architecture. It was produced concurrently with the early GMT-Master II models, offering a choice for collectors who preferred the simpler GMT mechanism.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel case, characteristic of many Rolex professional models of its era. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3175, which provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel, often seen with a "Pepsi" (blue and red) or "Coke" (black and red) insert, allows for the tracking of a second time zone.
For collectors, the 16700 holds significance as the last of the true GMT-Master series, distinct from the GMT-Master II's independently adjustable 24-hour hand. Its production period, spanning from the late 1980s to the late 1990s, places it at an interesting juncture in Rolex's history. It appeals to those who appreciate the classic GMT-Master design and functionality, often sought after for its robust construction and the availability of various bezel insert options.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3175
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex 16710 Ref. 16710
The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16710 represents a significant evolution in the brand's dual time zone offerings, succeeding the reference 16760. It maintained the core functionality of displaying two time zones simultaneously, distinguishing itself through a slimmer case profile compared to its predecessor and the introduction of different bezel insert options. This reference was produced for an extended period, allowing for various dial and bezel configurations that are of interest to collectors. It is a transitional model that bridges earlier five-digit references with modern six-digit iterations.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, housing the automatic caliber 3185, which provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating bezel, often seen with a Pepsi (red and blue) aluminum insert, allows for tracking a third time zone. The dial is black, and the watch is typically paired with a steel Oyster bracelet.
For collectors, the 16710 is notable for its versatility and the variations available throughout its production run, including different luminova types on the dial and the availability of black, Coke (black and red), and Pepsi bezel inserts. Its position as a robust and functional tool watch, combined with its classic proportions and the reliability of its movement, makes it a frequently sought-after reference. It appeals to those who appreciate the traditional aesthetic of Rolex's GMT-Master II line before the introduction of ceramic bezels and larger cases.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3185
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal