Bill, a respected contributor, provides an essential primer on the Rolex Oyster 7836 bracelet, a component often overlooked yet crucial for vintage authenticity. His detailed exposé helps collectors understand the specific models and end links associated with this iconic bracelet, bridging the gap between Gilt and matte dial eras. This article serves as a vital reference for anyone seeking to ensure period correctness for their vintage Rolex and Tudor sports models.
The Rolex Oyster 7836 bracelet graces many models seen between 1967 to around 1975. The 7836 adored the Explorer 1016 and the Explorer II 1655 (Freccione), a personal favorite the GMT 1675 and even the Milgauss 1019 enjoyed her company. They seem to also share many end links to include the 258,280,358 and 380. It was also used for the Tudor models which include the 7031/2 and the 7159. The Tudor Monte Carlo seems to have their specialized links which include the 282 (correction maybe it was the 382) for the early 7031.

7836 examples

78360 examples

The 7836 and 9315 runs confluent to the 7206 and 6636 bracelets were used on the Gilt era Rolex Submariner and GMT's from mid-1950's to around 1966. Use of the 7206 and 6636 started with the no crown guards like the 6542 but are mostly found from the pointed crown guard 1960 - 1963 and finishing with the round crown guard gilts 1964-1966/7. The 7206 and 6636 shared various end links to include the 64,65 for the early no crown guard BC and mostly using 58 and 80 end links for subs and gmt's.


It seem there was a divergence at the beginning of the matt dials where they split and went 9315 bracelets to the Submariners 5512,5513,1665,1680 and the 7836 went to the other sports models. In addition in the USA it was a rivet C & I bracelet which was a replacement option for the 9315 so there could be some overlap with 7836 bracelets for gilt watches but the date stamp will confirm. What we do see is many more USA rivet C & I bracelet with dates 68 and 68 and higher up to 1971. But there are also early USA rivet C & I from early 60's but less common maybe due to survivability. The Swiss made seemed to be rumored as better quality.
The question started as to what model fits the Tudor Monte Carlo 7159. To my knowledge there are a few but it seems like the most common seen for the 1970 to 1973 period was the 7836 folded links with a 282, 280 or a 380 end link (380B is a Tudor reference so maybe later). They also hand the Rolex logo on the buckle and blades. Later in the period 1974 to 1975 the Tudor logo was on the buckle with Tudor blades. But as always this is just an impression and variants are always out there.
I any case looking around a little you will find the 7836 bracelet used among several models that include
- EXPLORER ref. 1016 (ex. 1972 7836/280)
- MILGAUSS ref. 1019 (ex. 1969 7836/280)
- GMT-MASTER ref. 1675 (ex. 1969 7836/358)
- EXPLORER II ref. 1655 (Freccione) (ex. 3.2 mil 7836 / 380)
7836 generally seen with theses End Links
258 | 280 | 358 | 380 all in 20.0 mm width
So I think we have the 7836 and 9315 as one of the way to delineate the change from gilt dials to matt dials in and around 1967. So much Rolex to learn so little time. Please note this is not a complete bracelet expose just a little primer on the 7836 in relation to a question I got.
Back to the opening question about the Tudor Monte Carlo 7159 one replacement option includes 78360 with 589 end link.
Looking forward to some comments to fill in the wholes. Remember this is not an exact science just stipulations based on examples seen in the wild.
Best
Bill
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1520
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black gilt
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex GMT Ref. 1675
The GMT-Master reference 1675 is a significant model in the brand's history, representing an evolution from earlier GMT-Master references. It was produced for an extended period, allowing for numerous dial, bezel, and hand variations throughout its production run. This reference is notable for its introduction of crown guards, enhancing the watch's robustness and contributing to its distinct profile. It solidified the GMT-Master's design language, which would influence subsequent generations.
This reference features a 40mm case, available in stainless steel, yellow gold, or a two-tone combination of steel and yellow gold. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal and offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The bidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, displays a 24-hour scale.
For collectors, the 1675 is highly sought after due to its long production period and the resulting variety of configurations, including different dial types (gilt, matte), hand styles, and bezel colors (Pepsi, all-red, all-black). Its four-digit reference number and acrylic crystal are key characteristics that define it as a vintage Rolex. The reference appeals to those interested in the historical development of the GMT-Master line and the nuances of vintage watch collecting.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1575
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 50m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1575
- Case
- steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic (Plexiglas)
About the Rolex Tudor Chronograph Ref. 7159
The Tudor Chronograph reference 7159 is part of the second generation of Tudor chronographs, often referred to as the "Monte Carlo" series due to its distinctive dial aesthetics. This reference, introduced in the early 1970s, represents a significant evolution from the earlier 703x series, incorporating design updates while retaining the robust and functional character of Tudor's sports watches. It is distinguished by its specific bezel type and dial configurations, setting it apart from its siblings within the 71xx series.
This particular reference features a stainless steel case, typically measuring 40mm in diameter, providing a substantial presence on the wrist. It houses a manually wound Valjoux 234 movement, known for its reliability and chronograph functionality. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, consistent with sports watches of its era, offering durability and a classic profile. The case construction ensures a degree of water resistance suitable for its intended use as a versatile tool watch.
For collectors, the 7159 is a sought-after reference within the vintage Tudor chronograph lineage. Its appeal lies in its distinctive design elements, including the vibrant dial colors and the specific tachymeter bezel. It represents a key period in Tudor's history, showcasing the brand's independent design direction while leveraging Rolex's manufacturing quality. The various dial and bezel combinations within the 71xx series offer collectors a range of options.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Valjoux 234
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Grey and Black
- Water Resist.
- 50m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 6542
The GMT Master reference 6542 was introduced in 1955 as a specialized tool watch for pilots. It is notable for its dual time zone complication, achieved through a rotating 24-hour bezel and an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. This reference marks the initial iteration of the GMT Master line, establishing the core functionality and aesthetic that would define subsequent models. Its development addressed the need for a watch capable of displaying multiple time zones simultaneously, a requirement that emerged with the advent of intercontinental air travel.
The 6542 features a 38mm stainless steel case, housing the automatic caliber 1036. This movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal and offers a water resistance of 50 meters. Early examples of the 6542 are distinguished by a Bakelite bezel insert, which was later replaced by an aluminum insert due to durability concerns. The dial is typically black, often featuring gilt printing on early examples.
This reference holds significance for collectors as the foundational model of the GMT Master series. Its distinct characteristics, particularly the early Bakelite bezels and specific dial configurations, are key points of interest. The 6542 represents the original design intent for a pilot's GMT watch, making it a reference point for understanding the evolution of the model line. Variants exist with different bezel materials and dial details, contributing to its collectibility.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1036
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 50m/165ft
- Crystal
- Acrylic