Review
PuristSPro's article delves into the Rolex Submariner 124060, examining its subtle evolution and enduring status as a benchmark dive watch. This piece offers a critical look at how Rolex refined an icon, focusing on design nuances and technical upgrades that might be missed at first glance. It's a must-read for anyone interested in the continuous debate surrounding the Submariner's appeal and market dynamics.
It's hard to talk about the Rolex Submariner 124060, unveiled in September 2020, without acknowledging its status as *the* benchmark dive watch. As foversta puts it, no matter how you look at the competition, the Submariner always has that 'little extra.' For many of us, that's the Rolex myth, the history, the sheer brand power, but it's also simply the best in its category for its versatility. This is a watch dedicated to diving that can genuinely be worn in any circumstance, even formal wear, a point often emphasized by owners. And for purists, the 'no-date' version, like the 124060, is the clear preference, offering a perfectly balanced dial and a sense of going to the essential, with the added bonus of one less thing to adjust when you pick it up after a few days.
When the 124060 first dropped, many comments described it as just the previous one but a millimeter bigger. But as collectors who have worn both note, the exact opposite is true. The difference in diameter is often described as anecdotal, closer to half a millimeter than the announced diameter, and Rolex cleverly worked on the bezel to keep the dial opening very similar. The real magic, as foversta explains, lies in the subtle modification of proportions: the lugs are refined, and the bracelet gains a millimeter in width. This change contributes greatly to an overall slimmer, more fluid, and elegant aesthetic. Some owners have found that switching out the straps even accentuates these slimmed-down lugs, and others note that it appears to fit lower and wrap the wrist better than its predecessor.
Beyond the aesthetic tweaks, the 124060 brought a crucial upgrade under the hood. The small crown between 'Swiss Made' on the dial signals the new-generation Calibre 3230. This movement, a no-date variant of the 3235, significantly boosts the power reserve to 70 hours, up from 48 hours in the previous Calibre 3130. This is a real plus for those of us who don't wear our watches continuously, as foversta points out. The Chronergy escapement and optimized energy consumption are the unsung heroes here, all while maintaining Rolex's Superlative Chronometer precision of -2/+2 seconds a day. There's also a less-talked-about anti-reflection coating on the inner surface of the crystal, which not only improves legibility but can, depending on the light, give the dial a charming greyish hue that matches the ceramic bezel's reflections.
For all its technical and aesthetic refinements, the 124060 isn't without its frustrations. The biggest elephant in the room, as foversta highlights, is the sheer difficulty of acquiring one from an authorized dealer. The gap between supply and demand, and the feeling of being 'passed over by the smart guys who want to make a buck' on the secondary market, spoils the fun for many sincere enthusiasts. Many collectors' experience of ADs turning into 'chapels' with exhibition-only pieces, where you just 'write your name on a sketchy looking piece of paper,' resonates widely. Then there's the unfortunate reality of wearing a visible Rolex in certain areas, which can become 'almost a problem of physical integrity,' forcing extreme caution that detracts from the simple pleasure of ownership. Despite these external factors, the 124060 sparks a genuine split in collector sentiment: while many hail it as a 'new classic' and a truly enjoyable and comfortable watch to wear, others wryly dismiss it as 'the most boring choice you could make when buying a watch' due to its ubiquity. So, is the 124060 a 'new classic' or simply too ubiquitous to be exciting? Where do you land on this enduring debate?
| Case size | 41mm |
| Movement | Calibre 3230 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Water Resistance | 300 meters |
| Precision | -2/+2 seconds/day |
| Bracelet width | 21mm |
The 124060 features refined lugs and a wider bracelet (21mm), which gives it a more fluid and elegant visual balance. While often cited as 41mm, the actual diameter difference from the 40mm 114060 is closer to half a millimeter, and the dial opening remains very similar, so it doesn't feel significantly larger. Crucially, it houses the new Calibre 3230 movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve, up from 48 hours, and includes an anti-reflection coating on the inner crystal.
The 'no-date' version, like the 124060, is favored for its perfectly balanced dial and smooth glass, which many feel allows the watch to go to the essential. It's also more practical, as there's one less thing to adjust when you pick up the watch after not wearing it for a few days.
Despite the stated 41mm size, many owners, like foversta, find that the 124060 doesn't actually seem bigger than its predecessor. The refined lugs and wider bracelet contribute to a more elegant and slender visual appearance, with some noting it fits lower and wraps the wrist better, making it feel more proportional.
The community widely expresses frustration over the difficulty of obtaining the 124060 from authorized dealers. Many feel a sense of being 'passed over' while the secondary market appears to be regularly supplied, leading to disappointment for sincere enthusiasts who simply want to wear the watch.
Image credit: foversta
The Rolex Bubble Back reference 3130 is a notable example of the early self-winding Oyster Perpetual watches, distinguished by its prominently domed case back designed to accommodate the rotor of the automatic movement. This particular reference represents a significant step in Rolex's development of waterproof and self-winding timepieces, offering a robust and practical watch for its era. It is part of a series that established the foundational principles for many subsequent Rolex designs, emphasizing reliability and everyday utility.
This reference typically features a case crafted from stainless steel, though other precious metal variants were also produced. The distinctive "bubble back" profile allowed for the integration of the automatic caliber, which was a relatively new innovation at the time. While specific dimensions can vary slightly across production years, these models generally presented a modest case diameter, consistent with mid-20th century watch aesthetics. The crystal was commonly made of acrylic, contributing to the watch's water resistance.
For collectors, the reference 3130 holds appeal as an early and authentic representation of Rolex's pioneering work in automatic movements and waterproof cases. Its historical significance lies in its contribution to the evolution of the modern wristwatch, making it a foundational piece for those interested in the brand's technical advancements. Various dial configurations and hand styles can be found, adding to the collecting interest in these vintage pieces.
That's the thing about the Sub trends come and go, but this one just quietly outlasts them all. The no-date in particular feels almost trend-proof, strip away the date window and you're left with the purest version of the shape that started it all. It'll still look right in twenty years.
I wish they would introduce a tactical range with a matte dial, printed (or luminova blocks) indices, no shiny parts, heck even drilled lugs. Everybody can dream!
Honestly, that's a watch a lot of us would line up for. The polished centre links and the cyclops-free glossy dial are gorgeous, but there's a real case for a stripped-back tool version, matte everything, printed indices, drilled lugs you can actually swap straps on without a scratch. If they ever made a 'Submariner Professional' with zero shine...
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