DrStrong presents a captivating narrative of a Rolex Red Submariner Ref. 1680, tracing its journey from a professional diver in the South of France to his esteemed collection. This article underscores the profound value of provenance and the enduring legacy of tool watches that have genuinely served their purpose in extreme conditions.
I have already presented here in details several first owner divers watches of my collection. I am lucky enough to live in an area where there are lots of retired divers who still have their “diving tools” on the wrist. They may be fishermen or Comex divers, every story is different but yet fascinating:
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A few months ago, I had a chance to purchase a very special Rolex red Submariner ref 1680. I got it from a woman whose father was a famous diver here in the South of France. He was one of the very first French diver to obtain the Diploma in Professional Scuba Instruction in the late 1950’s.
In the 1960’s, he created a famous underwater rescue company that was specialized in complicated operations on ships and wrecks near Marseille. He participated to some very famous operations, like diving in crude oil to repair a tanker near Martigues.
In the early 1970’s he bought a Rolex Submariner from a local shop, as he needed the best diving watch on the market. He has worn the watch continuously until he gave it to his daughter, many years later. She also used the watch as a tool and was diving with it every day in the Med until she sold it to me !
If this watch could speak, it would definitely have incredible stories to tell.
The watch has an awesome patina: the sun and salted water have completely discolored the bezel, which has a spectacular “ghost” aspect. Yet the dial has been very well preserved and is absolutely flawless.
The little red line on the dial may appear to some as “snobbish Rolex collector thing”…but believe me, it is definitely a sexy feature that catches your eyes every time you look at the dial !
The watch comes with a lot of documentation concerning its history.
• More than 20 years of service records from various local watchmakers. As the watch was intensively used for diving, it had to be absolutely reliable and waterproof and therefore it was serviced and tested on a regular basis. Of course, the Bianchi service receipt is of particular interest because he was the watchmaker who used to service all the Comex watches in Marseille.
• a provenance letter telling the whole story of the watch and describing some incredible jobs it was involved in.
• Together with the watch, I got lots of pictures of its previous owner “in action”, during both his personal or professional dives.
This package of course gives to the watch another dimension: it is not just a timepiece anymore, but more a legacy of someone who had a fantastic life, a local diving legend. This is the kind of watches that keeps me the most excited now: they are very hard to find, because it definitely takes more than a checkbook and a vintage dealer shop…but once you have them on your wrist, the feeling is quite unique.
This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2015-07-16 03:53:26 This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2015-07-20 00:01:47 This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2015-10-16 04:17:21
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1520
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black gilt
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Ref. 5514
The Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a specialized variant of the Submariner line, produced exclusively for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French industrial deep-sea diving company. This reference is distinguished by its unique helium escape valve, integrated into the left side of the case, a feature not found on standard Submariner models of its era. It represents a purpose-built tool watch designed for professional saturation divers, setting it apart from other Submariner references intended for broader commercial release. Its limited production and specific client make it a notable piece within the brand's history of professional watches.
The case of the reference 5514 is crafted from stainless steel, typically measuring 40mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, likely the Rolex Caliber 1520 or 1530, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a Plexiglas crystal, consistent with Rolex sports models from the mid-20th century, providing durability and ease of maintenance in demanding environments. The helium escape valve is a key technical modification, allowing accumulated helium to escape during decompression without damaging the watch crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in specialized Rolex tool watches and those with a focus on professional diving equipment. Its association with COMEX and the presence of the helium escape valve make it a distinct and highly sought-after model. Variants often include dials with the COMEX logo, further emphasizing its unique provenance. The 5514 occupies a specific niche, representing a period when Rolex collaborated directly with professional organizations to develop watches tailored for extreme conditions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1520/1530
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass