Rolex Submariner 5508 'Kissing 4' Insert

Baron - Mr Red · 2013-04-29T07:19:13Z

Baron - Mr Red completes his Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 with a rare 'kissing 4' bezel insert. Discover vintage Rolex collecting, radium effects, and the pursuit of period-correct details.

Baron - Mr Red

WPS member · Rolex forum

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Baron - Mr Red shares his year-long quest to find the correct bezel insert for his Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508, a journey that culminates in the acquisition of a 'kissing 4' insert. His post celebrates the subtle yet significant details that define vintage Rolex collecting and the profound satisfaction of completing a cherished timepiece.

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I have owned a 5508 for just over a year....possibly 18 months. I have to say, it is one of the most pleasurable watches in my collection. It has been said many times that the 5508 combines both charm and sportiness. I think it does this better than any watch i know. But, my 5508 had an "issue". To be honest, when I bought it, I knew it had the "issue", but this was not going to stop me buying the watch. The issue was this:

The above insert was not correct for a 5508. Obviously, there is nothing inherently wrong with this insert. Its a fine insert. It is just that it did not come with my 5508. Now, the funny thing is, I was visiting Paris a while ago and was sitting with Nicolas discussing our respective 5508s. Both pretty smug...I remember! I think it is fair to say that we are both indifferent as to which of our 5508s we preferred most. If he walked off with mine, it would not be a disaster. His dial is (marginally) better than mine I think...my case is (marginally) nicer than his. But, to be fair, I think these two watches are both beautiful.

However, like mine, Nicolas's 5508 did not have the correct insert. So, rather than focus on what is so good with the watches, we both tend to focus on the insert. I have been hunting a correct insert....for over a year..... and at last I have found one. OK, maybe its not a red triangle version, but it is a "kissing 4" and it completes my 5508.

First, the obligatory wristshot.....

But what about the kissing 4?

So, at last my 5508 is complete. When one considers all the noise and attention generated by the various BCs, it still surprises me that these 5508s and 6536s do not get more of the limelight. With vintage Rolex, there is not much more pleasurable than wearing a 50+ year old watch with a mirror-like gilt dial. Forgive my indulgence of the watch here....but after hunting for an insert for over a year, it needs its 15 minutes of fame now!

About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

The Rolex Submariner reference 5508 represents the No Date series within the Submariner model range. Produced from 1958 to 1962, this reference is distinguished by its black dial that has developed spider patina over time.

The 5508 features a 37mm stainless steel case fitted with an acrylic crystal and rotating bezel. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters. The automatic Cal. 1530 movement provides 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch is paired with a steel bracelet.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on vintage Submariner variants from the late 1950s and early 1960s production period. The spider patina dial condition represents a specific aging characteristic that develops over decades. Within the No Date Submariner lineup, the 5508 occupies the position of a four-year production run reference with the Cal. 1530 movement.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal. 1530

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 37 mm

Dial: Black with spider patina

Water Resist.: 200m

Crystal: Acrylic

Key Points from the Discussion

The Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 is noted to be smaller and thinner than a GMT-Master or Ref. 5513, with a diameter around 38mm and a height of approximately 11.5mm, maintaining 20mm lugs despite its more compact case.
The author explains that radium, once promoted as a health product, caused severe suffering among watchmakers who licked paintbrushes for finer dial finishes, and can also dramatically affect a dial's appearance over time.
A collector shares his experience with similar smaller Submariner cases (Ref. 6202, 6204, 6536/1, 5508) and recounts a year-long, multi-thousand Euro hunt for an original insert for his Ref. 6202.
The author details how a friend with over 40 years of Rolex collecting experience located the specific 'kissing 4' insert, which fitted perfectly into the original bezel without any modification, suggesting it was '5508 DNA'.
A community member questions the value of keeping watches that receive little to no wrist time, prompting a discussion on collection rotation and the importance of wearing pieces.
A fellow collector expresses admiration for the 'kissing 4' insert and inquires about the exact diameter of the Ref. 5508, also jokingly asking if a second correct inlay was destroyed to prevent another collector from acquiring it.

The Discussion

amanico

Apr 29, 2013

This " + " crown, and now, your insert. Without forgetting the case which is just awesome. As for the insert, huge congratulations, my friend. Just one thing, now you left me alone in my quest of the perfect insert. ;) But I can easily understand your leasure and pride to have found one, a correct one, in great condition. Your love for the 5508 will have no limits, now! Enjoy, without moderation. ;) Best, Nicolas

gensiulia

Apr 29, 2013

...to your safe, you were right yesterday! wow! listen: have you an unsightly watch in your collection? congrats! :) chris

Baron - Mr Red

Apr 29, 2013

I love it....but man, you ugly!

Baron - Mr Red

Apr 29, 2013

actually perfect. I am not sure there is a better 5508 dial

amanico

Apr 29, 2013

And I don't even mention the caramel, chocolate dials... But in its kind, yes, it is a really cool and impressive dial. Best, my friend. Nicolas.

Baron - Mr Red

Apr 29, 2013

...i am not sure I have ever seen a nicer dial. As a package, these watches punch way above their weight. I know of a nice red triangle!! That would of course finish yours well.....but the owner will have a different idea!

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About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

Specifications

About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6536

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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