Vintage Rolex Submariner Collection: 6200, 5508, 5512

Baron - Mr Red shares his philosophy on collecting vintage Rolex Submariners, presenting his curated 'theme' that balances depth with a focused selection. He delves into the historical significance and unique characteristics of key references like the 6200, 5508, and 5512, inviting a rich discussion on what constitutes a complete Submariner collection.

A “theme”. It is something that is mentioned on these forums so frequently. I have a good friend from Sweden who takes his themes very seriously. Not only does a theme often imply getting every version of a particular reference, it also means getting the documentation, boxes and as much associated paraphernalia as possible. Yet, I have often considered a theme complete with just one version of a watch. Then, take a look at Nicolas’s fantastic Fifty Fathom collection, or indeed Bill’s stunning array of Submariners. The depth of the theme is immense and the necessary room to complete such themes needs to be large. 

But make no mistake, themes can make collecting great fun and can add some real spice to how one views a collection. With that in mind, I am going to touch on my own theme on Submariners. As a collector of vintage Rolex, my collection could not be complete without a Submariner. Yet, the range of Subs available is so great and so wide that it would be almost impossible to cover all bases. So, I had to make a decision on how I could complete my theme of Submariners without having to build a collection of 20 or more Submariners! I believe i have done so with a much smaller number. For me, it completes my theme and has covered a wide range of angles.

So....where to start? Lets go chronologically....6200

Nicolas, Marcello and I got into an interesting debate about which watch qualifies as the VERY first Submariner. Its open for debate, I think, depending on how one defines “first”. First to be sold officially? First to be manufactured as a Submariner? First to be catalog’d? One thing that we do know for certain is that the very first Submariner Big Crown was the 6200. For me, to have a small but focused collection of Subs, the 6200 Big Crown is an integral component.

Launched in 1953/4, and in production for just one year, the 6200 carries the 3-6-9 Explorer dial, a lollipop hand.... and of course a large winding crown. And of course, a gilt dial. The watch also carries immense personality. Only by having it on the wrist can one sense the intensity of the watch and feel the history that it created. Rolex has become the most famous tool watch in the world. Much of that subsequent fame came on the back of these early diving watches. That may sound an extravagant thing to say, but i think it is reasonable.

Of course, if one has a 6200 Big Crown, it makes sense to partner such a watch with a small crown. The 5508 was produced from 1957 to 1961. My version has a 58iii stamped in its case-back. It carries a "Swiss" only exclam mark, which is often seen in 5508s as early as 58 and through to 61. What does the exclam mean? LoL. That is a widely debated issue and one that I will pursue in a subsequent thread. What I will say is that my 5508 has radium on the dial and has not been transitioned to tritium, despite the exclam....more to come on that. And of course, it is gilt.

The 5508 is a very different watch to the 6200. A totally different character. Whereas the 6200 is presidential, the 5508 is very much under-the-radar. It has charm, discretion and not inconsiderable style. It combines sportiness with elegance well. The 5508 and 6200....made within 5 years of each other. Both Submariners, but so different from each other. To complete a Sub theme in just four watches, I needed both

to be included.

The next watch in my gang of four is the 5512. One could almost make a theme of collecting just 5512s as there are so many permutations. My particular favourite is the 2 line gilt. It similarly carries the exclam mark, and unlike the 5508 has tritium on the lume. The 5512 was the first reference to carry protected crown guards. To my mind, it is “the” iconic Rolex look. It has its place in Rolex history courtesy of the crown guards. The first 5512  was launched in 1959, so just after my 5508 was made. The 5512 was produced for a number of years in various formats, but the early versions carried the gilt dial, and that was also a major factor driving me to this model. Gilt Subs just have that something extra. The 6200, 5508 and 5512 in my collection are all gilts. So that leaves me looking for a matt dial for the final member of my gang of 4.

So where to complete the theme? My choice was actually one of my first Sub purchases. The 1680 Red Sub is special for a number of reasons. One obvious one is that it carries red writing on the dial. Not all 1680s do that. My version is a Mk2 dial. But of course, what really sold me on keeping the watch was my growing understanding of the original history of the watch. I have reviewed this watch before - The Ricciardi Red, a watch having the retailer mark of the Argentinian retailer “Ricciardi”. I will be frank, when the dealer showed me the markings, I was very dubious, but with the research that followed, I have come to realise how special the retailer was and how unusual having the watch is. It carries a matt dial, making it different to the other Subs in my collection and of course the cyclops. The 1680 was first launched in 1966 through to 1980. It was also the first Sub to carry a date function.

Are there any holes in this theme? Well, it might make sense to have a 5517 in there or maybe a 5513 Maxi....these are all possibilities. But to be honest, I look at my four and there is not one of them that i would replace with either a 5517 or a 5513. I don’t feel any holes in this Sub-theme. It is a great feeling to look at a theme and be satisfied with how it has worked out. A sense of completion. 

But to be honest, a sense of completion about a theme is “totally” within our own control. We are our own taskmasters in this sense. A theme can be complete with just one watch, with four, with twenty....or indeed with none! That is the beauty and horror with watch-collecting themes.

This is how I have viewed creating my own Sub theme. I am curious what others think.....would you consider I have missed something critical or perhaps that one reference is not necessary? How would you construct a theme? I am curious as I am sure plenty of people go through the thinking around the methodology of collecting. I know i do!! Could one have just one of these and consider it a completed theme? Which one?