Vintage
DrStrong's comprehensive review of the Rolex 'small crown' James Bond Submariner offers a deep dive into the historical significance and design evolution of this iconic diver's watch. His analysis, originally posted in 2008, remains a valuable resource for understanding the early Submariner references and their enduring appeal to collectors. This article synthesizes community insights, making DrStrong's foundational work accessible and relevant to new enthusiasts.
The Rolex small crown James Bond Submariner
History
The production of the Rolex Submariner started in 1953 and the watch was first presented to the public at the Basel Fair in 1954 under reference 6204. This watch is generally considered as the first modern diver’s watch, together with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms which was issued the same year.
The design of the Submariner was based on the already existing Turn-o-graph ref. 6202: it had a bi-directional bezel with no minute markers between 0 and 15 min, a straight minute hand and the luminous dot was located at the very end of the sweep second hand. The very thin case with no protective shoulders around the 6mm crown was waterproof to 600ft and hosted Rolex cal. A260.
In 1956 Rolex launched ref. 6536 and 6538. These references were first fitted with cal. A260, soon to be replaced by cal. 1030 and its improved bi-directional winding. The maximum depth was 330ft for ref. 6536 - which was renamed 6536/1 with the introduction of cal.1030 – and 660ft for ref. 6538. In 1958, ref. 5508 was introduced with the new movement cal.1530 and was produced until the early 1960’s when it was replaced by ref. 5512; this was the end of the James Bond Submariner, since ref. 5512 had a new case, bezel and protective shoulders around its 7mm winding crown.
On the wrist
In less than 10 years of production, the non-crown-guards (aka James Bond) models have transformed the Submariner into an iconic watch; the small crowns in particular are characterised by a relatively thin case associated with a 6mm winding crown, that give to the watch a timeless elegance. With its perfect size and thickness, this toolwatch can become dressy as soon as you wear it on the appropriate strap:
The watches
Here’s a nice example of a 1957 Submariner ref. 6536/1. On this watch, the original glossy dial shows no maximum depth, only the word Submariner. The dial has a nice patina and the original handset is perfectly matching:
Here’s a picture of the cal.1030 movement:
A view of the inside case-back, with the model reference and production date (first quarter of 1957):
The reference number is engraved between the watch lugs:
Here’s another 6536/1, which has been used by the French Brigade de la Marine Fluviale de la Gendarmerie Nationale. It is particular in the sense that there is no serial/reference engraved between the lugs; this is a specificity that I have only seen on some military shoulderless Submariner:
The watch has no engraving on the outside caseback, but I have seen some exemplaries with G.N. engraved on it.
Another specificity of this watch is that the dial and bezel have turned to a deep brown color; these dials are often referred to as tropical dials. The maximum depth - printed in white - is partially erased:
Here’s another 1957 Submariner ref. 6536/1 used by the French Navy. This one has a replacement dial, which is not glossy but has a satin finish and swiss – T < 25 printed at the bottom:
This one has a reference and serial number engraved between the lugs. Here’s a view of the cal.1030:
The sideview shows an unusual superdome plexi, probably a Tropic 17:
The inside caseback with all proper engravings:
The outside case-back of this watch has no special engraving either, but you can see that it has been drilled to be opened without the appropriate Rolex tool. This sometimes happened on military watches that needed to be opened urgently during operation, when there was no watchmaker in sight.
Finally here’s a ref. 5508 from 1958. This watch also has a replacement swiss - T< 25 dial, but this one is glossy with gilt markings, which is a very rare feature. The white sweep second hand is not very common either:
On this view, you can admire the beauty and thinness of the oyster case:
Here’s the cal. 1530 with a butterly rotor, typical of the late 1950's:
The inside caseback with all proper markings, this time the year is engraved with four digits:
The shape of the caseback is different than on ref.6536/1:
Conclusion
The small crowns are not the most expensive vintage Rolex models, but to me they are maybe the most beautiful ones.
Well, now I think it's time for you to begin hunting for one...and enjoy the cruise !
Cheers
Jeff
This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2008-06-25 04:41:54
Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
The Submariner reference 5512 represents Rolex's no-date variant within the Submariner series. Distinguished by its clean dial layout without date complication, this reference was produced from 1962 to 1989, spanning nearly three decades of manufacturing.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses either caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movements, providing 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert, and acrylic crystal. Water resistance extends to 200 meters, with the watch fitted to a stainless steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking the fundamental Submariner aesthetic without date functionality. The extended production period and dual caliber usage create multiple variations within the 5512 designation. The no-date configuration offers symmetrical dial proportions that attract purists within the collecting community.
hot summer afternoon .... the junior is sleeping ... easy music on .... Rolex review PERFECT! Thank you and it looks like Nicolas got serious review competition :0)))
As you know, i am in love with the small crowns! Rgrds.Philipp
the prices have gone through the stratosphere... will be content with my crown guard subs thanks for the post. cheers raph
Thanks a lot for this wonderful review, Jeff... As a lover of the GMT models, I have to admit that the Sub was the one who drove me to Vintages, and specially Diving watches. Yep, 5508, 6536 and 6538 are true cult watches, and, beside a Blancpain FF, or some JLC Vintage Diving, and an Omega SM 300, these are wonderful pieces to collect. Totally agree with you on a 6536, even if the 6538 is, for me, more apealing, due to its big crown, but hey, the price is not the same!!! Best, and thanks again
but I need Philipp's help ;-) Cheers Jeff
again you are killing us: four-lines, tropical dials...what else ? Cheers Jeff
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