Andrew's pictorial report from Salon QP 2010 offers a valuable snapshot of the luxury watch exhibition, highlighting key debuts and notable pieces. This article provides a historical perspective on significant watches and innovations from a decade ago, including George Daniels' legacy and Cartier's experimental horology. Readers can revisit the excitement of new releases and concept watches that shaped the industry.
For the second year, Salon QP was again held in the deconsecrated church in northern London. Last year the event proved a great success, and this year was no exception to the general trend. With the passing of the year, the event has become more eagerly anticipated and this year’s event was a great success. In what follows I provide a general overview of what caught my eye. This is not mean’t to be comprehensive review by any means, but will hopefully give a flavour of what was there.
There were some notable stars of the show. First among them was the Daniels Smith Anniversary watch to commemorate 35 years since the Co-Axial escapement was developed. Personally, it was great to meet George and Roger again and spend a few minutes chatting with them. The Anniversary watch is fitting addition to the Daniels watches over the years and as previously mentioned while the drawings did not exactly ‘wow’ me, the watch itself is another matter. It appears as if ‘pure’ Daniels in design and the lucky few who are on the list will definitely own a piece of history.
Other watches making their debut at the Salon was the Bremont B-1 Marine Clock. Entirely made in Britain and only just completed in time for the Salon, the English brothers were proudly displaying the clock for the first time. This is a step up for Bremont. This is a movement and clock designed from scratch, for yachts and cross-ocean sailing in mind. The case is milled from a single piece of metal, the power reserve for the clock is a month, and is made to order. The skeleton movement is English gilt finished and the finishing on the movement and the clock in general is a notable step up. It is a beautiful clock.
Not making its debut, but still the first time I had seen the watch. I still love this watch and still hope Cartier will re-think their decision. The ID-One to my mind is one of the more stunning watches of recent years and in the metal it did not disappoint. I love the overall look and the incorporation of the technology into the design and to think it will run perpetually, no need to regulate the watch again. It is like a concept car that has not gone into production and everyone sits around wondering why? Great concept and design; seeing it with my own eyes only regenerated the wish that Cartier make this into a production watch. I could argue that the ID-One is a watch that is fittingly part of Cartier’s history. Humour me for a second! Think about it: Louis Cartier could arguably hold the title as first industrial watch designer. The Santos was based on the riveted panel design from aircraft at the time; and from a time when pocket watches were still the main production piece for a watch company, the Santos was a significant break in design. Louis Cartier followed that up with the Tank which was inspired from the First World War’s newest weapon of destruction on the battlefield. Innovative, daring, and brilliant. Exactly the set of adjectives that I would apply to the ID-One: modern materials applied to create a new watch design for the modern age. If anyone from Cartier is reading this…
Fellow brands from Richemont were also at the Salon. Jaeger LeCoultre weighed in with the Tryptiche of watches. I never get tired of seeing the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 with the unique spherical cage and conical spring. A really innovative movement and as with other multiple axis tourbillons, the movement of the escapement is unique, and nothing else moves quite like it. Jaeger also brought in some fire power in the form of Stephan Belmont to talk to collectors about the Manufacture. It was good to see him there and the Jaeger area was a hive of activity and interest.
Vacheron were on the opposite side from Jaeger. Lange and Sohne were on the floor upstairs. Also, next to Jaeger was the new boy in the room: Ralph Lauren. A range of three watches: Slim Classique, Stirrup, and Sports. From a small start, the Ralph Lauren line has started to expand and change into a series in Special Editions. The watches are very well made, and the movements come from the Richemont brands, and refinished. More on the Ralph Lauren watches in later articles.
Finally, and something that made me smile. Grand Seiko has arrived in London (courtesy of Jura Watches). After complaining and gripping about this for years, thanks to Jura Watches, Grand Seiko is now being sold in London and the full range is on show. Making their debut at the Salon was Grand Seiko and the watches were a crowd draw. I am a pretty happy camper these days!
I have to congratulate James Guerney and the QP Magazine organizers for putting this exhibition together each year. It grows more successful and long may this continue. I can only hope that more watch firms join in the fun next year and the event is a worthy addition to the watch world exhibition circuit (with Belles Montres in Paris, SIHH, and Baselworld as comparators).
Andrew H (who is eagerly awaiting SalonQP 2011).
