Grand Seiko 44GS Re-Issue Review

KIH · 2013-08-19T09:42:16Z

Explore the Grand Seiko 44GS re-issue from BaselWorld 2013. KIH reviews its design, historical significance, and meticulous craftsmanship. Discover Seiko's dedication to heritage.

KIH

WPS member · Seiko forum

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KIH provides an in-depth review of the 2013 BaselWorld Seiko novelties, with a particular focus on the highly anticipated re-issue of the Grand Seiko 44GS. This article delves into the historical significance and design philosophy behind the 44GS, explaining why this particular model was chosen for a modern revival and the meticulous craftsmanship involved in its production.

I was invited to SEIKO Office by PR team for the 2013 Novelties show.

To me, the highlight was/is the re-issue of 44GS. I know some people prefers "original" and so do I whenever it is possible. But this re-issue is a different story, IMHO.

Please read on for what is so special about this 44GS re-issue.

From left to right - PG (LE of 70), YG (70), WG (70), and SS (700).

WG (blued second hand)

As some may remember, the factory as well as the equipment of the GS case supplier, Hayashi Precision ("Hayashi"), were almost completely lost. Keep this in mind reading through.
(read my 130th Anniversary Edition article here, at the very bottom -> home.watchprosite.com )

So, why did they decide to re-issue this particular model? Actually, this is being done in series - the first one being the original GS re-issue as SEIKO's 130th Anniversary LE a few years ago (or maybe the re-issue of Quartz Astron before that...?). And now this one - being remembered one of the best hand wind, non-hi-beat GS (18,000 vph). Perhaps the next one - don't know when - may be 45GS, the best hand wind hi-beat whose movement which actually won the Observatory Chronometer Competition in late 60s.....
44GS, launched in 1967, was chosen this anniversary year because it is THE GS that established the definition of "GS Style" design code going forward - one of the best Japanese watches ever made for sure.

What is so great about this one? What is the fuss (at least in Japan, this was causing lots of buzz and fuss)? Well, it's rather the case than the movement inside. Umn, don't get me wrong. The movement is the "normal", modern, the today's best GS hand wind mechanical movement 9S64 (+5 ~ -3 sec per day, 72h power reserve) the same as the one in 130th Anniversary LE - SBGW033). But the case is what make this model stand out.

37.9mm (original being 38mm).

Why the case?

"44GS is a good example of BAD case design" because good designer should NOT design such a low productivity case. It just took too long a time to make. At the time of 44GS, it took a veteran crafts man two hours to polish just one surface and he could make just a few per day. No wonder they stopped production in a relatively short time.

SEIKO thought the schematic for the 44GS case must be at Hayashi somewhere, but all were lost at the 3.11 Earthquake disaster. So they had to look for it elsewhere - there was only one left at Customer Service center.

There were several hurdles they had to surpass:

- The glass diameter is now 1mm unit, not 0.5mm. 44GS glass is 32.5mm and they wanted to re-create the faithful re-issue, thus had to change the machine only for this model.

- Hayashi had lost most of the equipment at 3.11 disaster but now has got new machines and this 44GS was given the most advanced technology for case production.

- GS cases are made almost exclusively with forging. Forged cases tend to have "dull" angles or edges, but it is not the case (pun not intended) for GS cases. Hayashi forges GS cases 13 times (!), each time heated at 1100C for 15 minutes (in cases of 18K gold, 800C) in between. And the sharp edges are made possible by machining AFTER forging. They make cases a bit larger (0.03mm) first and after forging, surfaces were machined away by CNC.

- Blackpolish on the bezel. Hayashi made five new machines only for blackpolishing using tin plate for this 44GS. New 44GS finish is definitely a few notches better than today's other GS. And the way they polished was the traditional way since 50s. Blackpolishing was NOT taken into account in the estimate to SEIKO, but Hayashi wanted to do this way "because this is 44GS".

Blackpolished bezel

Sharp edges.

With those not-too-visible or obvious "attention to details" process, SEIKO/ Hayashi may have thought the price was too low, but they did what they did because this is, after all, THE re-issue of 44GS.

And the modern interpretation of 44GS - newly designed case with automatic movement GS - SBGR083 (to be available July 8th)

Wrist shot of WG

and PG version

Now the next big topic was Astron.

Kintaro Hattori (founder of SEIKO) LE

And other new Astron designs..... Red second hand is cool.

Sporty Blue/Black dial.

Orange/Black dial...

Yellow green second hand is a nice touch - only available in non-Japan markets.

Spartan look black/white dial.

Very cool rubber strap, orange/ black dial - only available non-Japan markets. Very cool... Why not in Japan? :-(

That's it!

Thank you very much as always - SEIKO Watch PR Team!
Also, special thanks to Mr. Hirota who provided some behind the scene stories of 44GS re-issue project.

Best,
Ken

This message has been edited by KIH on 2013-08-19 09:51:48

About the Grand Seiko Ref. SBGW033

The Grand Seiko SBGW033 is a limited edition model released to commemorate the 130th anniversary of Seiko's founding. It is a re-creation of the original Grand Seiko from 1960, capturing the aesthetic and proportions of that seminal timepiece. This reference is distinguished by its faithful adherence to the design principles of the first Grand Seiko, offering a direct link to the brand's heritage of precision and craftsmanship. It represents a significant piece for collectors interested in the foundational designs of Grand Seiko.

The watch features a stainless steel case, carefully polished to a high standard, measuring 37.6mm in diameter. It houses the manual-winding Caliber 9S64, known for its stable performance and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. The dial is protected by a box-shaped sapphire crystal, which enhances the vintage appeal while providing modern scratch resistance. The solid case back further emphasizes its classic design.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate historical re-creations and the understated elegance of early Grand Seiko designs. Its limited production run makes it a sought-after piece within the collector community. The SBGW033 stands as a testament to Grand Seiko's enduring design language and its commitment to mechanical watchmaking, offering a blend of historical significance and contemporary quality.

Specifications

Caliber: 9S64

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 37.6mm

Dial: Ivory

Water Resist.: 3 bar

Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Forged cases, though requiring extensive production lines, offer superior hardness and longevity compared to modern CNC-machined cases, a quality that was prevalent in earlier Grand Seiko models.
The re-issue of the 44GS demonstrates Seiko's commitment to tradition, even going to the extent of adjusting machinery to accommodate half-millimeter differences for crystal production, showcasing their dedication to historical accuracy.
The 44GS was chosen for re-issue because it established the foundational 'GS Style' design code in 1967, defining the aesthetic for future Grand Seiko models.
The case design of the 44GS was considered 'bad' from a productivity standpoint due to the two hours a veteran craftsman spent polishing just one case, highlighting the labor-intensive finishing.
The re-issued 44GS models, particularly the steel SBGW047, were difficult to acquire outside Japan due to high demand and limited export availability.
The modern 9S64 movement in the re-issue offers excellent precision, with one owner reporting a stunning accuracy of plus/minus 2 seconds over a month.

The Discussion

nilomis

Aug 19, 2013

To die for. If we consider that my pedestrian (in GS terms) Marinemaster 300m without any regulation is my best performer in terms of precision (so accurate that I don't care to measure anymore) I can barely imagine how great should be a true GS. I love the case design of those GS. Very angular, modern interpretation of a 70's look. Thank you Ken, for this fine presentation of those Seiko novelties. Cheers, Nilo

Dr No

Aug 19, 2013

. . . faithfulness to their tradition means taking the extra effort by adjusting their machinery to accommodate that half millimeter difference when it comes to making crystals for the 44GS. Amazing. My affection for GS . . . [my wrist, cazalea's SBGW001] . . . grows every time a story like this comes to light. Thank you, Ken, for all the photos and explanations, and to Mr Hirota as well. Art

Ares501 - Mr Green

Aug 19, 2013

Best D Thank you Ken for wonderful post

SALMANPK

Aug 19, 2013

"Serious Watches for Serious Men" :-) the 44GS is a "Serious" watch in every sense, thanks for another great Report Ken San :-) S

rnaden

Aug 19, 2013

Thanks for putting this together and giving me a much better understanding of the painstaking details that are involved in a GS watch. Looking to have a GS in my collection at some point and I have an appointment with my local GS boutique next week to look at some models that just came in. I don't think these new 44GS is in there though...at least not yet, if ever. Thanks for sharing. Great report. Richard

KIH

Aug 19, 2013

.. you have similar taste to mine. I love YOUR Zenith (the one with different color three registers), too.... Ken

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About the Grand Seiko Ref. SBGW033

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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