Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series 2023
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Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series 2023

By cazalea · Mar 8, 2023 · 10 replies
cazalea
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Cazalea's post introduces the 2023 Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series, celebrating 110 years of Seiko watchmaking with four special timepieces. These models showcase traditional Japanese handcrafts—enamel, Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, and Shippo enamel—on their dials, blending artistry with Seiko's mechanical expertise. The article highlights the brand's commitment to heritage and precision in its latest Presage collection.

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The history of Seiko began in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a shop in Ginza to repair and sell timepieces. In 1913, this company produced Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, and has advanced the art of watchmaking over the years, through both technology and craft. Four special timepieces now join the Presage Craftsmanship Series to commemorate the 110th anniversary of Seiko watchmaking. Each showcases a traditional Japanese handcraft combined with Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills, creating a unique balance of beauty and precision.



The Presage Craftsmanship Series shines a light on traditional Japanese crafts via the watch dials. With each of the four crafts, a different master and his team demonstrate the painstaking skill required to practice their technique on the miniature canvas that is a Seiko Presage dial. For this special anniversary series, Seiko is presenting a limited-edition Presage watch in each of the following four materials: Enamel, Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, and Shippo enamel.

A new profile for the Presage Craftsmanship Series

The limited-edition watches use a new case shape with refined angles and an elegant sense of proportion. The case is designed to emphasize the craft dials while offering a slimmer appearance on the wrist. Each dial features a new design with alternating roman numerals and indexes, and thanks to dual-curved sapphire crystals, the dials appear even closer and more legible, bringing a truly striking appearance to the craftsmanship within.

A white enamel dial to stand the test of time


The  white enamel dial created by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team features a red roman numeral at 12 o’clock, evoking the original Laurel wristwatch of 1913. Beneath the dial is Caliber 6R24, with displays for the date at 6, the day of the week at 3, and the power reserve at 9 on the dial. Presented on a black leather strap, this watch makes a classic impression and, thanks to the enamel dial, its striking white appearance will endure for years to come.

The traditional streetscape of Kanazawa comes to life in Urushi lacquer



Urushi lacquer is a centuries-old decorative art that is practically synonymous with Japanese craft. Typically found on fine objects such as soup bowls or furniture, Urushi comes to life on this dial through an innovative method employed to achieve a flat surface. The coppery brown hue is inspired by the streetscape of Kanazawa, an evocatively-named city that means “marsh of gold,” in Ishikawa Prefecture. There, Urushi master Isshu Tamura and his team employ techniques to make some of the most distinctive Urushi lacquer in all of Japan. Like the white enamel dial watch, the Urushi lacquer creation is powered by Caliber 6R24. It is mounted on a dark brown leather strap.

Fusing tradition and technique through Arita porcelain


This dial’s new ivory color transports the wearer to the Izumiyama Ceramic Stone Field in Arita, a small town in Saga Prefecture that is, after more than 400 years of history, inseparable from Japanese porcelain. Master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi and his team make the dials in a multi-stage process that requires tremendous skill and patience, and several firings in a scorching kiln, to lock in rich color, texture, and depth for years to come.

The movement in this watch is Seiko’s high-performance Caliber 6R27, with sunken sub-dials at 6 o’clock for the date and at 9 o’clock for a power reserve indicator. The watch is presented on a dark brown leather strap.

The deep blue sea evoked in Shippo enamel


This dial’s intense blue calls to mind a vast ocean of waves. So, it seems fitting that the art of Owari Shippo was sparked by a blue plate that came to Japan from the Netherlands hundreds of years ago by sea. From there, the craft developed in a Japanese way. What sets Shippo enamel apart is the way it is polished after firing. The process is made more complex by the fact that each watch dial is a mere one millimeter thick. Master craftsman Wataru Totani and his team repeat a multi-step process of glazing the surface of the dial by hand, firing the dial, and polishing its surface to bring out the distinctive wave pattern. Though slender, this dial has a readily visible depth, like the oceans that inspired its design.

The watch is powered by Caliber 6R27 whose date and power reserve displays add yet another layer of visual interest. It is presented with a dark blue leather strap.

All four watches will be available from June 2023 at the Seiko boutiques and select retail partners worldwide. 

The enamel, Urushi lacquer and Arita porcelain dial watches will be offered as limited editions of 1,500. 

The Shippo enamel dial watch will be offered as a limited edition of 800.







About the Seiko Ref. SBGH315

The Grand Seiko SBGH315 is a contemporary mechanical timepiece from the brand's Heritage Collection, known for its classic design and high-beat movement. This model continues Grand Seiko's tradition of producing watches that combine precision engineering with understated elegance, appealing to collectors who appreciate refined horology without overt embellishment. It stands as a testament to the brand's commitment to the fundamental principles of watchmaking.

Powered by the Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85, the SBGH315 operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring high accuracy. The watch features a stainless steel case, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, and a screw-down case back. Its dial is often characterized by intricate textures and meticulously finished hands and markers, reflecting Grand Seiko's renowned Zaratsu polishing technique.

For collectors, the SBGH315 represents a modern interpretation of Grand Seiko's historical high-beat movements. Its combination of a robust, high-frequency caliber and a timeless aesthetic makes it a sought-after piece. The model underscores Grand Seiko's position as a manufacture capable of producing movements and finishes comparable to leading Swiss brands.

Specifications

Caliber
9S85
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
39.5mm
Dial
White/Silver textured
Water Resist.
100m
Crystal
Box-shaped sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
CA
cazalea
Mar 8, 2023

Look at it this way -- obviously the styling over-rules the dimensions, making the watches APPEAR slim while remaining SUBSTANTIAL. The fatness comes from stacking 4 hands one above the other, and mounting the dials very carefully to avoid cracking or damage in assembly and use. Putting a spin on it, best I can

CA
cazalea
Mar 10, 2023

You can't stop the second hand so it's really only a cosmetic detail, I think.

JT
JToddH
Mar 14, 2023

I love my Presage Cocktail Time, but what followed immediately after was somewhat “underwhelming.” These latest offerings certainly bring a level of sophistication to Presage that is quite alluring. Bravo, Seiko! Well done!

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