Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, ignites a compelling discussion on the resurgence of shaped watches. His insightful compilation of nine recent examples, all released within the last two years, challenges collectors to consider the evolving landscape of horological design beyond traditional round cases. This article delves into the community's diverse reactions to these contemporary interpretations of classic and avant-garde forms.
Shaped watches seem to be all the rage: here are nine recent examples, all produced between 2024 and today.
Do you like shaped watches?
Best, Emmanuel
2025 CARTIER TANK A GUICHETS WATCH ref. WGTA0234 Case: 24.8mm width x 37.6mm length x 6mm thickness - 18k yellow gold
Movement: Calibre 9755 MC - manufacture - hand-wound - Jumping hours and dragging minutes
PATEK PHILIPPE CUBITUS, ref. 5821/1AR-001 Case: 45mm (10-4 o’clock), 44.5mm width (3-9 o'clock incl. crown) x 8.3mm thickness x 44.9mm lug-to-lug - 18k rose gold and stainless steel case, two-part construction
Movement: Calibre 26-330 S C - in-house - Patek Philippe Seal - automatic with central 21k gold rotor - 28,800 vibrations/hour - Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring - 35h-45h power reserve
VOUTILAINEN KV21 TONNEAU Case: 39.50mm length x 35mm width x 11.66mm thickness - new barrel-shaped case with polished and satin finished surfaces
Movement: new calibre KV21 - in-house, hand-wound - 30mm - direct impulse escapement with two escape wheels - 65-hour power reserve - 18,000 vibrations/hour
RAYMOND WEIL TOCCATA HERITAGE, ref. 2280-PC5-80001 Case: 33mm width x 38mm length x 6.95mm height - elliptical (oval) shaped stainless steel case, polished with rose gold PVD coating
Movement: calibre RW4100 (Sellita SW210-1B base) - manual winding - 25.60mm x 3.35mm - 28,800vph - 45h power reserve
AUDEMARS PIGUET NEO FRAME JUMPING HOUR ref. 15245OR.OO.D206VE.01 Case: 34mm width x 47.1mm length x 8.8mm thickness - rectangular 18k pink gold case with 8 gadroons on each side extending on the lugs
Movement: Calibre 7122 - in-house - automatic movement (evolution of the calibre 7121) - 29.6mm x 4mm - 43 jewels - 4Hz frequency - 52h power reserve
ANOMA A1 SLATE Case: 39mm diameter x 38mm length x 9.45mm height - rounded triangular-shaped case in stainless steel, polished
Movement: Sellita SW100 automatic - 28,800vph / 4Hz - 38-42h power reserve - hours, minutes
SERICA PARADE REFERENCE 1174 Case: 35mm width x 41mm length x 8.6mm thickness - elliptical stainless steel case, multi-layer bezel, brushed with polished bevels
Movement: SoProd M100 - automatic Swiss movement - 25.60mm x 3.60mm - 25 jewels - 28,800 vibrations/hour - 42-hour power reserve
SEIKO PRESAGE CLASSIC SERIES CRAFTSMANSHIP ENAMEL DIAL ref. SPB537 Case: 46mm (length) x 35.9mm (width) x 12.5mm (thickness) – tonneau-shaped stainless steel, brushed and polished
Movement: calibre 6R5H – in-house - automatic – 21,600 vibrations/hour – 24 jewels – 72h power reserve
NITON PRIMA Case: 27mm x 35.50mm x 7.9mm thickness - rose gold case, satin and polished finish
Movement: manual-winding calibre NHS01 – jump hour – stop to zero reset – 4Hz frequency - 72-hour power reserve – variable inertia balance – Breguet overcoil - Geneva Seal and ISO 3159 Chronometer standard
credit: Monochrome (and Revolution for the side of the Cartier Tank à Guichets) About the Various Shaped Watches Ref. Multiple
The shaped watch represents one of horology's most enduring design challenges, breaking free from the conventional round case that has dominated wrist-worn timepieces since their inception. This collection showcases the contemporary renaissance of non-circular cases, from tonneau and cushion shapes to more avant-garde geometric forms. Each piece demonstrates how modern manufacturers are revisiting historical case architectures while incorporating current manufacturing techniques and materials.
The technical complexity of shaped cases cannot be understated, requiring specialized tooling and movement configurations that often demand higher production costs than traditional round cases. Many of these timepieces feature movements specifically designed or modified to complement their case geometry, with dial layouts and subdial positioning carefully orchestrated to maintain visual harmony. The integration of complications within shaped cases presents particular challenges, as the available real estate must be optimized without compromising legibility or aesthetic balance.
The market for shaped watches has experienced renewed collector interest, particularly for pieces that demonstrate genuine design innovation rather than novelty for its own sake. Contemporary examples command premium pricing due to lower production volumes and specialized manufacturing requirements. The segment attracts collectors seeking alternatives to the ubiquitous round sports watch, though market acceptance remains more selective than mainstream circular timepieces, making successful shaped watch designs particularly noteworthy achievements in contemporary horology.
Specifications
- Case
- Various
- Diameter
- Various
- Dial
- Various
