SIHH 2013: Top Picks from A. Lange, Cartier, JLC

I came back from Geneva yesterday. Time is coming to do a small wrap-up and to give my first feelings.

On an overall basis, it was an uneven SIHH. Some brands like Cartier, Lange, JLC met my expectations by offering solid 2013 collections. Some were less active but managed to provide good surprises (Piaget, VCA). Some were very reserved if not shy (AP, Vacheron) but at the end I prefer to see nothing than a missed collection... I was disappointed by IWC and Parmigiani but maybe I have to see them closer to have a final judgement: at first glance, I was not seduced by the Ingenieur collection. And I don't see where Parmigiani wants to go. They give me the feeling to be more interested in their manufacturing activity through Vaucher and the other companies of the group than in their own collection.

Anyway, there were several very seducing watches, at least for me, I gathered into this selection. And I would like to show it to you.

Lange presented an excellent collection with a mix of exclusive watches with more "affordable" ones.

The 1815 Rattrapante PC is my fav watch of the Salon: I found its dial beautiful and balanced. The movement is gorgeous and globally speaking, the watch contains all what we expect from Lange.



But if I come back to more reasonable watches for my own wallet, the 1815 up&down also proposes some good surprises.

It is not a "mere" 1815 with the addition of the power reserve indicator. It has a different diameter (39mm), a different case (there is a distance between the case side and the bezel) and the movement is brand new with an increased power reserve (72 hours).



Cartier presented an impressive fine watchmaking collection. But obviously, the Calibre Chronograph is maybe the most important watch because becoming a base for the whole collection. I would like to highlight 2 watches.


At the beginning I found the Rotonde Mysterieuse a bit too feminine but once put on the wrist, it releases its own charm... Hopefully, the hairs are not too visible.

The Rotonde Double-Tourbillon Mystérieux is really hypnotizing and it is one of the few Cartier watches I don't regret the large case diameter...

As usual (but it is always a strong performance), JLC unveiled a wide range of novelties from simple and classic watches up to the superlative Gyro 3 Jubilée. I couldn't see this impressive watch so I can't add it to my selection. But I would like to highlight two watches I liked.

First one is the new Master Calendar. Sometimes, there is something magic which operates and I was at once seduced by its vintage style. Of course, it is a very daring watch in terms of design but it is very well done.

The Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Duoface is also very charming especially in PG case. Please note that the PG and the SS versions don't have the same white dial. Two nice dials on a single watch, the ability to switch between a white and a black dial, to use it as a travel watch... this Duoface offers a lot for its price:

With Dubuis, behind the craziest booth entrance of the Salon, a wide range of novelties were presented including the technically impressive Quatuor. It raises a lot of questions but at least it is a worthy and alternative approach in the quest for the best chronometric performances. A kind of over-complicated Duality!

But if I have to pick one Dubuis, I would choose this beautiful skeletonized Flying Tourbillon in the 42mm Excalibur case.

When the ultra-thin micro-rotor movement was introduced by Piaget, I was surprised to see it housed in a 43mm Altiplano case. So I was very happy to discover it in a 40mm one this year. But there was a surprise: a complication was added with the presence of a date window at 9 o'clock! Despite this quite unusual location, I found it well integrated.



As I told you previously, AP and Vacheron were very quiet this year.

But I would like to present you two watches which  worth the look:

The black ceramic Diver:

and the 38mm Patrimony Traditionnelle in Platinum with a superb slate dial:

Greubel Forsey was presenting different evolutions of existing models and it was interesting to see how the Art Piece was changing several months after my first encounter with the watch at the FIAC. My fav of the Greubel Forsey 2013 collection is the Double Tourbillon Technique Black:

 

I would like to finish this small wrap-up with the most charming watch of the Salon... by far. And as you can imagine it, it comes from Van Cleef Arpels. Don't expect here another technogical masterpiece like the two Poetic Wish watches were last year. But the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée plays an other tune: it tells the time "à la demande" creating a special relationship between the watch and its owner. The most fascinating point about this watch is the slow motion... and we all know that in watchmaking, everything which is slow is more complicated!

Just see and appreciate how the time is displayed:



My small selection is over... of course, I could have add some other watches. But I wished to create a balanced choice between affordable and expensive watches, classic and daring timepieces.

Thanks a lot to the brands staffs for the warm welcome during the SIHH.

Fr.Xavier