Svend Andersen Henry Birks Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

quattro · 2026-05-20T17:19:11Z

Explore the Svend Andersen Henry Birks Minute Repeater Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, a rare mid-1980s piece with a unique movement and design.

quattro

WPS member · Independents forum

24 replies792 views4 photos

quattro's detailed presentation of the Svend Andersen "Henry Birks" Minute Repeater Retrograde Perpetual Calendar offers a rare glimpse into early independent watchmaking. This post is crucial for understanding Andersen's foundational work and his unique approach to complications. It provides valuable historical context for collectors interested in the origins of independent horology and bespoke commissions.

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This Minute Repeater Retrograde Perpetual Calendar was made by Svend Andersen in the mid-1980s for Henry Birks, the luxury jeweller and watch retailer based in Montreal, Canada.

Notice how the dial does not feature the signature of Svend Andersen or Andersen Genève, but only “Henry Birks” on the outer circumference of the dial at six o'clock.

The movement repurposes a vintage minute repeater caliber and adds a perpetual calendar module with a retrograde date indicator that Andersen developed himself.

This is said to be one of the earliest pieces he made.

Notice how the minute repeater slide lever is unusually located on the 3 o'clock side of the case, and the crown at 1:30 instead of 3 o'clock.

The watch is mentioned on page 74 of the book Andersen Genève - 45 Years of Independent Watchmaking :

credit: Hodinkee & personal photo of my copy of the book Andersen Genève - 45 Years of Independent Watchmaking

A wonderful timepiece, imo, with a very appealing dial and wonderful teardrop lugs.

What do you think about it?

Thanks for looking.

Best, Emmanuel

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Svend Andersen Ref. 360, a white gold minute repeating retrograde perpetual calendar, was a special order for Mr. Yoshi Isogai, President of Shellman Co in Japan, made in 1988.
The movement of the Ref. 360 is based on a vintage Tiffany & Co. caliber, likely made by Patek Philippe, to which Andersen added his own perpetual calendar module with a retrograde date.
Svend Andersen is an underrated independent watchmaker whose significant contributions, particularly in complex complications, are gaining more recognition among collectors.
Early perpetual calendars, like the 'Henry Birks' piece, often lacked a visible leap year indicator, requiring a watchmaker to set them correctly.
The case of the 'Henry Birks' watch, with its unique crown and minute repeater slide lever placement, was crafted by J.P. Hagmann, a renowned case maker.

The Discussion

enjoythemusic

May 20, 2026

Utterly SPECTACULAR!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow, and that casework with great lugs.... yummmm 😋

quattro

May 20, 2026

Yes, truly wonderful! 🌸

Best, Emmanuel

quattro

May 20, 2026

Agreed!

Best, Emmanuel